Mk1 white vts turbo .... 260bhp - 250 ft lbs

[robster247]

Originally Posted by gti180craig

Haha green light are usually pretty good I know when I had my Impreza that was fully modded forged etc they did me a real good deal I plan on using them again when I've done my conversion

Cheers will give them a ring . Just going to declare it as a 1600 turbo haha . Probably cost a fortune and will only use the car on the odd occasion .

Need temporary insurance just for the summer really

[robster247]

Well after over two years in the shed it's finally seen the light of day ! Finished off and ready for mapping. Also changed the oil as it was black already and has only ran for about half an hour haha .






[URL=http://s1207.photobucket.com/user/robster247/media/IMG_0940_zpszhrdwp3d.jpg.html][/URL



Have a few jobs to do this week

Get power steering back on as it's too heavy for my liking
Mechanic stack oil pressure gauge, as I think my stack electrical one is broken haha .
24" long silencer to be fitted as it's far too loud !
Wrap the exhaust under the car

And possibly re route the water return from the turbo straight to the header tank . Currently have feed from the matrix pipe (heater matrix removed) through the turbo and back into the fitting on the thermostat housing but this won't be allowing water to flow when the thermostat is not open .

Would that be a better idea or will it not matter ?

[Chipwizards]

Keep a very close eye on the oil cooler if it's a Mocal one, I've had loads of them fail when the oil inside gets hot enough to soften the paint because they aren't welded/soldered together properly. They say they pressure test them, but I don't believe them. They also say they are British made, but the paint has that typical Chinese look about it.

I nearly always use Swedish made Setrab oil coolers, or occasionally Behr from Germany.

[robster247]

Originally Posted by Chipwizards

Keep a very close eye on the oil cooler if it's a Mocal one, I've had loads of them fail when the oil inside gets hot enough to soften the paint because they aren't welded/soldered together properly. They say they pressure test them, but I don't believe them. They also say they are British made, but the paint has that typical Chinese look about it.

I nearly always use Swedish made Setrab oil coolers, or occasionally Behr from Germany.

Thanks for the heads up . I've already ran the cooler on my old saxo vtr turbo and didn't have any problems inf the few thousand miles it covered.

But I do understand what you mean they do look a bit tacky.

With only two weeks left till mapping I'm a bit sceptical as to what to take with me on the day . Obviously a full tank of fuel and plus .

Any ideas on this will be appreciated greatly.

[AdamH]

nice update rob, are you running a screamer pipe from the external waste gate also? (I'm on mobile and its not loading well)

[robster247]

Originally Posted by AdamH

nice update rob, are you running a screamer pipe from the external waste gate also? (I'm on mobile and its not loading well)

Cheers matey ! Yes I have a screamer pipe , it just goes straight down from the wastegate.

Was going out the front bumper but couldn't be bothered routing it .

[AdamH]

which downpipe are you running? having a nightmare finding someone who can make me one to mate to a magnex decat with a gt28 flange :/

[robster247]

Originally Posted by AdamH

which downpipe are you running? having a nightmare finding someone who can make me one to mate to a magnex decat with a gt28 flange :/

I'm using a dp engineering down pipe but it has had to be cut and modified to suit . As the turbo mush be in a different position compared to the dp engineering manifold.

Bit of money but I picked mine up second hand so it was cheap enough to cut and make it fit .

It is a rather strange angle where ther 2.5" meets the flange but will be easily made if you know what you're doing the metal .

[Ben_SaxoForte]

Looks awesome bet you cant wait to go for a good rip in it

[robster247]

Originally Posted by Ben_SaxoForte

Looks awesome bet you cant wait to go for a good rip in it

Thanks mate . Yeah I'm looking forward to it but also shitting it at the same time

Who knows what will happen .

[sri_130]

Originally Posted by robster247

Thanks mate . Yeah I'm looking forward to it but also shitting it at the same time

Who knows what will happen .

I'm thinking the exact same thing with mine. Excited but then mega scared.
Weird sensation.

[Rowan]

Finally turbo'd! What happened with the red pug?

[Chipwizards]

Originally Posted by robster247

Thanks for the heads up . I've already ran the cooler on my old saxo vtr turbo and didn't have any problems inf the few thousand miles it covered.

But I do understand what you mean they do look a bit tacky.

With only two weeks left till mapping I'm a bit sceptical as to what to take with me on the day . Obviously a full tank of fuel and plus .

Any ideas on this will be appreciated greatly.

Asside from looking tacky they fail. I've had several fail on the dyno and now I absolutely won't use them any more.

Going to the dyno....
Full of good fuel (so Tesco 99 or Shell VPower- but only if you can buy it from a trusted garage- read- 'not Asians'). Make sure there's no oil, fuel or water leaks. Take a spare coil pack, plugs and any tools or spares that may be 'special' for your car. Be prepared to raise the ride height if needed. Be prepared to take the front bumper off to help cooling. Make sure your fuel pump can deliver enough fuel at enough pressure AT THE SAME TIME.
If you have an aftermarket ECU take the crimp tools required for the terminals and some spare terminals in case you need to swap anything about. Check for boost leaks before you go by pressurising the system with a tyre inflator. Make sure nothing combustible, meltable or critical is near the exhaust manifold because it will get too hot on the dyno. Make sure your cam timing is right.

Who's mapping it for you?

[axsaxoman]

Originally Posted by Chipwizards

Keep a very close eye on the oil cooler if it's a Mocal one, I've had loads of them fail when the oil inside gets hot enough to soften the paint because they aren't welded/soldered together properly. They say they pressure test them, but I don't believe them. They also say they are British made, but the paint has that typical Chinese look about it.

I nearly always use Swedish made Setrab oil coolers, or occasionally Behr from Germany.

ihear what you say wayne -- but all failures with oil coolers i have seen are because people don,t hold the nut on the cooler when they fit the pipes and crack the welding of the union when tightening up the pipes
will have had probably 5 or 6 been returned from selling oil cooler kits and every time you can see a spanner has never been on the built in unions on the cooler and when quizzed the customers admitted they never held the unions when fitting hose connections
certainly the thread on mocal ones could be smoother that i will agree with --too much paint on them +no one ever cleans it off

[axsaxoman]

for my tastes i would like to see one of the small bosch water pumps on the turbo water feed and have it running for a while after engine has stopped
loads of cars have them fitted as std +have 16mm heater hose size connections
you can just "TEE it off the heater hose pipes --that means you can still have a heater
if you using braided water feeds --they have a plastic innner --so less chance of them frying if a constant water circulation -
me i like metal pipes till it well away from exhaust =turbo

[robster247]

Originally Posted by Rowan

Finally turbo'd! What happened with the red pug?

Red pug ended up as scrap . Realised it had been crashed and only found out when removing the rear door card .

Was a shame but the white vts is a hell of a lot better shell ,

[robster247]

Thanks for all the input guys it is much appreciated, I will be taking all my tools just in case something does happen . Along with the modified tools too .

I've just had a quick look on eBay at the electronic water pumps to feed to turbo after switch off , around £50 for a Bosch pump sounds pretty reasonable.

A setup like this will definitely be added to the already growing 'to do' list . As I don't have time to do it before my mapping session next weekend .

Just need to order a map sensor and an air temp sensor then it's ready .

Got the new stack mechanical oil pressure gauge ditties this evening, started the car and the gauge sat at just over 5 bar . Does this sound about right for a cold reading?

Car is getting mapped at jdm dyno kirkbride , Jonathan is his name. Also he prefers mapping dta ecu's which is good for me . And it's only half an hour down the road for me

[axsaxoman]

Originally Posted by robster247

Thanks for all the input guys it is much appreciated, I will be taking all my tools just in case something does happen . Along with the modified tools too .

I've just had a quick look on eBay at the electronic water pumps to feed to turbo after switch off , around £50 for a Bosch pump sounds pretty reasonable.

A setup like this will definitely be added to the already growing 'to do' list . As I don't have time to do it before my mapping session next weekend .

Just need to order a map sensor and an air temp sensor then it's ready .

Got the new stack mechanical oil pressure gauge ditties this evening, started the car and the gauge sat at just over 5 bar . Does this sound about right for a cold reading?

Car is getting mapped at jdm dyno kirkbride , Jonathan is his name. Also he prefers mapping dta ecu's which is good for me . And it's only half an hour down the road for me

citroen sec is 4bar hot --never a problem with these engines

[gti180craig]

Looking good mate I'm sure mapping etc will go fine I know for a fact when I get mine done I'm gonna be saying to myself over and over "don't blow up don't blow up" lol

[robster247]

Glad to hear the oil pressure is okay . Plans this weekend are to fit the silencer. And give the inside a good clean. Not much more I can do on the car at this stage .

If it blows up I will cry , far too much time and money for it to end up like that