A very basic guide how to turbo your saxo / 106 - Saxperience

Sophia_Bush · 5th February 2008, 20:52

This is only a very rough guide on parts, what basic work needs to be done etc. First of all you will need to decide on what kind of power you want, what budget you have and what you can make yourself.

Basic parts list (cheap option 8v mpi low boost)

Adapter for the standard manifold to the turbo
downpipe from the turbo
oil feed line
oil return line
boss welded into the sump for the return
Boost pipes
Intercooler
silicone hoses of various bends
silicone vac hose for dump valve and boost gauges
boost gauge
dump valve
2.5bar map sensor
4 bigger injectors (use dastek and map sensor module to run this option)
MF2 and sigcon (runs extra one or two injectors along side the oe 4 if not going for dastek option)

The above is the basic "safe" list of what you want, obviously you will need to lower compression this can be done by either getting the thickest repair headgasket you can get or get a decompression plate. Budget around 2.5k for the above IF you can do ALOT of the work yourself, if not at least double it if going to a well established company.

Slightly more expensive

standalone ecu (dta, omex, emerald, mbe, motec, gems, megasquirt)
wideband lambda
tubular turbo exhaust manifold
forged pistons.

Obviously with the above it is a more precise way of doing what the dastek and other cheap options do. Forged pistons is just a better safety net for running higher boost.

If you make your own adapter for the turbo make sure the turbo is sitting straight and not at an angle like alot of so called setups on ebay, having the turbo at an angle means the oil cant drain back out and will kill the turbo unit in a matter of time.

Regardless of what setup you go for you need to consider who is going to be setting up the management whether it is a mf2 or motec, you need to find out what your local mappers prefer as this will save time on mapping for them if they are familiar with the system.

Sidenote: If you dont understand alot of this or can not do the work yourself then do not even attempt it, even for the good car DIY enthusiast the work needed to be done to get the setup to a good standard aint exactly easy. Your best bet would be to get your cheque book out and take it to someone to build up for you.

There is an even cheaper option that axracing mentioned using less parts, but that is really if you are on a stupidly tight budget and just want to get your foot in the door, I will add that list if wanted unless axracing sees first.

I take no responsibility if your car goes tits up, this guide is only to be used as that to give you a basic idea of what parts are needed and what kinda work is involved. MODs up to you whether this becomes a sticky or gets added to a different section, only did this quick write up as it gets asked a fair amount week to week.

medz_vtrturbo · 6th February 2008, 23:01

Quote:

If you make your own adapter for the turbo make sure the turbo is sitting straight and not at an angle like alot of so called setups on ebay, having the turbo at an angle means the oil cant drain back out and will kill the turbo unit in a matter of time.

this also causes smoke bellowing out of your exhaust on tick over.
what i dont get with the angle thing is, my mate has an escort rst and his t3 hybrid is sat on an angle and thats fine.

@tweeqd: where can you get restrictor for oil pressure??

AXracing · 7th February 2008, 18:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimmy2006

What is boost to do with oil pressure ?

Because even the chaps running 300+ bhp are not having problems with the stock pump.

AXracing · 7th February 2008, 18:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by medz_vtrturbo

this also causes smoke bellowing out of your exhaust on tick over.
what i dont get with the angle thing is, my mate has an escort rst and his t3 hybrid is sat on an angle and thats fine.

@tweeqd: where can you get restrictor for oil pressure??

Most turbos are designed to have oil fed in to the top at preshure though a tiny hole and effectively sprayed at the bearings. Then its intended to simply fall off the bearings and out the bottom of the turbo where the drain is. You absolutely do not want oil sitting in the turbo. This is why even the oil drain has to be above the oil level in the sump. Most turbos if you angle over will get oil pooling and make the bearing over heat. If you have the far enough over they will fail in no time if pushed. Just take a look at production turbo cars to see how it should be done.

As for oil restructure you just put a washer in your pipe track or just use skinnier pipe to restrict it.

jimmy2006 · 7th February 2008, 19:22

All the turbo`s i have done it is not the pressure it is more to do with flow

Jackman · 7th February 2008, 19:42

thank god for this!

bout time really!

bet we will still get billions of stupid turbo threads though!

Sticky!

AXracing · 7th February 2008, 20:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimmy2006

All the turbo`s i have done it is not the pressure it is more to do with flow

What do you mean? All being equal more pressure the pumps pushing the more its flowing. Or are you talking oil pressure/flow to the turbo? If so you have to restrick the preshure as the TU engine runs at such high oil pressure its enough to blow oil past standard Garret turbo seal.

jimmy2006 · 7th February 2008, 20:51

No sorry i done a pug 205 1.9 GTI but no photo`s

jimmy2006 · 10th February 2008, 19:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimmy2006

No sorry i done a pug 205 1.9 GTI but no photo`s

This is a decent guide, don't post rubbish if you don't know what you're talking about please

I have build a lot of turbo car of various makes yes you can run std oil pumps but what i was explaning is you are taking oil flow from the engine to feed the turbo so if you fit a big capacity oil pump this compenstates the loss of flow from the engine

Sophia_Bush · 10th February 2008, 20:00

yes that may be true but considering the feed for the oil to turbo on any MPi TU block is right on the front of the enigne in the middle were the pressure is operating at a high point there is no need. Also with the positioning th eoil gets fed back into the sump pretty quikckly.

Dafy the guy with the 300bhp vts turbo hasnt done a oil pump, neither have any of the 200bhp+ supercharged guys on SSC, come to think of tim Tams 250bhp charged AX doesnt have one and has been fine considering that is a pure track car

Joesnow · 10th February 2008, 22:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by medz_vtrturbo

this also causes smoke bellowing out of your exhaust on tick over.
what i dont get with the angle thing is, my mate has an escort rst and his t3 hybrid is sat on an angle and thats fine.

where can you get restrictor for oil pressure??

The turbo should have an internal restrictor that bypasses the journal… if it’s forcing oil past the seals the pressure must be far too high! It’s a miracle how these DIY turbo installs work with any decent amount of reliability!

Try and find a datasheet for your turbo and match the flow/pressure requirements by actually measuring it… Bypass or restrict then measure again and make sure it’s perfect!

I don’t get how the angles related to smoke either?

VTEC-Saxo · 28th October 2008, 00:41

This is only a very rough guide on parts, what basic work needs to be done etc. First of all you will need to decide on what kind of power you want, what budget you have and what you can make yourself.

Basic parts list (cheap option 8v mpi low boost)

Adapter for the standard manifold to the turbo
downpipe from the turbo
oil feed line
oil return line
boss welded into the sump for the return
Boost pipes
Intercooler
silicone hoses of various bends
silicone vac hose for dump valve and boost gauges
boost gauge
dump valve
2.5bar map sensor
4 bigger injectors (use dastek and map sensor module to run this option)
MF2 and sigcon (runs extra one or two injectors along side the oe 4 if not going for dastek option

I love how shes missed out that actual turbo in this list lol!

frankie · 28th October 2008, 00:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sophia_Bush

If you make your own adapter for the turbo make sure the turbo is sitting straight and not at an angle like alot of so called setups on ebay, having the turbo at an angle means the oil cant drain back out and will kill the turbo unit in a matter of time.

i belive he did'nt?

VTEC-Saxo · 28th October 2008, 01:01

Basic parts list (cheap option 8v mpi low boost)

Adapter for the standard manifold to the turbo
downpipe from the turbo
oil feed line
oil return line
boss welded into the sump for the return
Boost pipes
Intercooler
silicone hoses of various bends
silicone vac hose for dump valve and boost gauges
boost gauge
dump valve
2.5bar map sensor
4 bigger injectors (use dastek and map sensor module to run this option)
MF2 and sigcon (runs extra one or two injectors along side the oe 4 if not going for dastek option

I dont see the turbo in the parts list..

vtcarl · 28th October 2008, 07:49

Adapter for the standard manifold to the "turbo"
downpipe from the "turbo"

looks like a turbo was mentioned to me. i'd say its up to you then to decide which turbo you use.

Sophia_Bush · 28th October 2008, 11:15

mmm yeah some people are very pedantic and thick these days considering it was mentioned twice in the opening 2 items. I can't be your mum and wipe your arse aswell, you have to make your own decision on what turbo to get.

for the pedantc anal poster I think any normal person would take that as a ah yes I need a turbo for this setup so I can turbo my cat not some sort of pikey mcdonals burger box

Quote:

Adapter for the standard manifold to the turbo
downpipe from the turbo
oil feed line
oil return line
boss welded into the sump for the return
Boost pipes
Intercooler
silicone hoses of various bends
silicone vac hose for dump valve and boost gauges
boost gauge
dump valve
2.5bar map sensor
4 bigger injectors (use dastek and map sensor module to run this option)
MF2 and sigcon (runs extra one or two injectors along side the oe 4 if not going for dastek option

The_Notorious_C_A_T · 28th October 2008, 11:28

Anyone also notice it said
"I love how shes missed out that actual turbo in this list lol!"

I hate selling stuff.

Prickle^p · 28th October 2008, 11:44

mistake post

coolj522 · 28th October 2008, 14:34

ive currently got a basic turbo kit bought, it consists of manifold, tujrbo, downpipe with screamer, modifiedsump and intercooler.

i know i need larger or more injectors, which is the best value for money with regards to injectors, bigger ones and dastek or 5the injector and mf2??

also i was wondering about compression, i was thinking of runnin a decompression plate, where is the best place to get one of these from?? also what sort of boost could i run with a decompression plate??

cheers in advance

saxovtsman · 18th November 2008, 12:54

I build a 1.4 turbo with a garrett T2 and two head gasket.
But i have a problem. I don't understand how i can install a mf2 and a 2bar map sensor. I don't need to see another men for remap the ecu ?

Thanks a lot, in france we only use a 892 turto ct loom wiring but it's very expensive.