rear beam repair kits - Page 2 - Saxperience

fixit · 3rd February 2009, 17:20

i cant tell you how the kit works until its all done but i have used it several times now and works great the kit is totally different from the ones on the 106 website they are just straight replacement kits, this repair kit uses the original axle when the old bearings have damaged it so no need to change the axle and no need to replace the axle pins, the price may vary as i would have to investigate the manufacture costs of the kits so the price may come down alot, just really need to know if people would be interested in this kit. I can give more info on the guarantees and price once i get the kit produced just let me know if your interested so i can get them made up, once the kit is produced i will gladly tell all how it works cheers!

LeeM · 3rd February 2009, 17:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by LUK3H

tbh if the pin is worn all you can do is either make a shim to fit in the bearing or have a bearing with a smaller internal diameter which wouldnt fit over the rest of the pin.

i was thinkin it would be something like this

williamsvts · 3rd February 2009, 18:34

how do you bearings have a good fit though? i have seen some that have been so badly worn and corroded that the OD of the pin is ive 1mm smaller than it should be. best way imo is to press new pin in with new bearings.
you might sell a few kits to people that arent too clued up, but for the people that know the score with these rear beams your going to have to expailn what type of bearings etc you use to convince us.

fixit · 4th February 2009, 09:36

all will be revealed, I understand for the mechanics out there that you will need convincing but you will see how it works when they are produced, it took a long time to work out a method of repair and a good few attempts to get it right I will let everyone know asap when they will be ready, just wanted to see what interest there would be cheers

LeeM · 4th February 2009, 13:33

if its a genuine method of repairing that will be safe and reliable and will last a while im sure you will sell lots of kits. we cant tell you how much interest there will be without knowing how its actually done.

AlexB^p · 4th February 2009, 13:39

without swapping the pins there is no way to repair a beam properly
its as simple as that

any way of to get round it will only last a short while (hence only a year guarantee)
a proper repaired beam will last as long as a new part

williamsvts · 4th February 2009, 14:41

unless he uses some sort of roller bearing instead of a needle bearing. but then i dont think it will fix every beam as i have seen some with VERY badly corroded pins..

LeeM · 4th February 2009, 17:57

maybe offset the bearing with a modified spacer, but cant see that working very well either tbh

AlexB^p · 4th February 2009, 18:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by williamsvts

unless he uses some sort of roller bearing instead of a needle bearing. but then i dont think it will fix every beam as i have seen some with VERY badly corroded pins..

i thought that for a second
but still most guys dont notice till a beam is well amd truly shagged so tbh most need new pins

silversaxo113 · 5th February 2009, 23:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by willsy

Being honest 1 year isnt much of a guarantee, thats probably around the time that a simple bearing swap might last for depending on milage etc.

At this stage you're still unlucky if you've experienced some form of rear beam failure, most are probably from older cars which are pushing 10 years old or have seen a hard life over bad roads.

With a fully reconditioned beam id rather pay £300 for the guarantees of new parts etc for at least 5 years or so (approx) than worry about paying over £100 for something which may only last 12 months.

Sorry for being picky, but i do take some persuading.

ive just paid 280 for a reconded rear beam (02 reg vtr but has given me a hell of a lot of trouble before this)with guarntee seems the way to go mate unless you can show people what they will be getting for there money before they buy again if or when you show them and it does work you shouldnt have any problems shifting a few

BullockXR · 19th January 2010, 21:26

only way i could think of using different bearings is by getting the beam in a lathe and turning the damaged surface down and using a bearing with a smaller internal diameter....

axsaxoman · 2nd February 2010, 23:20

I have been looking at this for some time and am very close to an OEM grade solution .
I know there are at least two other people making the stub pins ,but from the information I have neither of these people are actually making the stub pins the same as citroen do .

Our pins will be EXACTlLYto same spec as original ,they will be induction hardened + centreless ground finish to 3 decimal places,not just lathe turned . .
I will post pictures when they are ready .

Tontsy · 2nd February 2010, 23:41

if there was such a way for it to be done, on a cheaper basis, and so well, lke you say.
i would imagine jpsaxo, would have thought of it.
in all the torsion threads, ive seen contstant posts from willsy, sparco_tom and jpsaxo!

how come these guys dont know the trick?

axsaxoman · 3rd February 2010, 00:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by LeeM

i was thinkin it would be something like this

making the pin smaller diameter will weaken it .
if pin has a 2mm wear groove on one side then minimum you could reduce its diameter by would be 4mm ,to keep it concentric and the axle true.
reducing sidwall by 4 mm could be fatal , then there is the question of the corrosion pitting that happens next to the axle support bracket and where the bearings run .
I have cut up these pins when having a loyyds insurance metalurgy study carried out ,and you would suprised how deep the pitting can be .
It is only now that good s/h axles are getting hard to find that i consdered there would be enough of a market to allow batch production of these pins .

making them in small batchs using the correct material + heat treaments was not a viable option

.

saxo-parts · 3rd February 2010, 11:16

let us know how it works and if it will, i'll buy as i've got scrap beams piled up with worn pins. not going to buy something thats not explained or proven though...

Mochachino · 3rd February 2010, 14:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by axsaxoman

I have been looking at this for some time and am very close to an OEM grade solution .
I know there are at least two other people making the stub pins ,but from the information I have neither of these people are actually making the stub pins the same as citroen do .

Our pins will be EXACTlLYto same spec as original ,they will be induction hardened + centreless ground finish to 3 decimal places,not just lathe turned . .
I will post pictures when they are ready .

How are yours different to other refurbishment firms?

axsaxoman · 3rd February 2010, 18:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by db_sax

How are yours different to other refurbishment firms?

quality - pure and simple ,
made from same type of material ,hardened same way as original and machined in same way
ask any bearing maker what surface would they specify for needle rollers to run on and how hard does the surface need to be .

Mochachino · 3rd February 2010, 21:15

Quote:

Originally Posted by axsaxoman

quality - pure and simple ,
made from same type of material ,hardened same way as original and machined in same way
ask any bearing maker what surface would they specify for needle rollers to run on and how hard does the surface need to be .

Though everyone knows that this is a common problem with saxo/106 beams that the bearings collapse and score the pins?

So surley it would be an advantage to have a stronger pin?

axsaxoman · 4th February 2010, 19:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by db_sax

Though everyone knows that this is a common problem with saxo/106 beams that the bearings collapse and score the pins?

So surley it would be an advantage to have a stronger pin?

the problem is not one of strength ,but of keeping water away from the needle roller brgs .
most of the brg problems happen because when ride height is altered the brgs are not regreased or more usual the seals at th inner end are not postioned correctly ,which then allows water ingress.
within a short time the damage will happen .
both the seals and the seal seating rings are moveable on the axle ,so it is easy for the ham fisted or careless to move the postion of either or both which will cause incorrect water proofing of axle bearings ..
this why it easy ro find ,or it was easy to find undamaged 1.1 or other base model axles as these cars don,t often get lowered --when did you last see a std height vtr or vts?
ever man and his dog is an expert on lowering ,if they were there would not be so many knackered rear axle tubes + brgs.
I have been lowering ax/106 +saxo,s for over 10 years now and none of my customers who had their cars for a few years have had any axle issues

donnypaul · 28th January 2011, 23:17

repaired mine with a sleave over the pin. car is dropped 70mm on the rear.
failed mot dint it was wobbling all over, replaced bearings lasted 2 months and was back wobbling, took arb off bearings were ok but the pin was worn around 1mm on inner n outter edge, thought about a sleave then it was made in less than 5 mins that was in october 2010 its now 28.01.2011 and over 7000 miles and still solid, would defo do this to another car i own that had same rear beam problem, many of you might think is it safe or not well id say its 99.9% safe not had any problems with it and im sure if something was to give it wouldnt be dangerous as it would have just worn like the pin eventually does only thing i would say though is if the pins worn or corroded to a depth of over 2mm then replacement of the pin or beam to be the only option i think.