My guide to COMPLETELY removing gear stick play!

[Deano24]

Thanks darkslider, pictures and details helped me out yesterday

[webbcrai04]

nice guide mate, helped me a lot

[littleredsaxo]

I'm having a problem with 1st and 2nd not engaging. The linkages all seem to be moving OK but where the top linkage enters the gearbox there is a cylindrical piece which looks like it has 'popped' out of the gearbox housing by about an inch. The linkage moves when the gear stick is moved but doesn't engage with anything. Can anyone give me some advice? In the picture the piece is indicated by the yellow arrow " border="0" class="tcattdimglink" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" alt="" />

[littleredsaxo]

Here's a better picture the piece that looks like it's raised an inch or so out of the housing is indicated by the yellow arrow. Any thoughts?

[greyjasper51]

When you move the other linkage it moves in and out of the gearbox... Its meant to and chances are that your gearbox has been beaten in 1st and 2nd scourcing a 2nd hand one will be most cost effective

[DaCrazyOne]

Where can i get the nylon ball thing from? can they be bought separate or do I need to buy full part with the mettle arm on?

[Gandi699]

the whole thing. 106parts.com sell them

[DaCrazyOne]

Originally Posted by Gandi699

the whole thing. 106parts.com sell them

Anywhere else other than them or is their price about the going rate for them?

[Gandi699]

thats about the going rate. Not seen them for sale anywhere else in all honesty

[DaCrazyOne]

Originally Posted by Gandi699

thats about the going rate. Not seen them for sale anywhere else in all honesty

Been looking everywhere found a place local to me who does 2nd hand parts and recons but waiting for his response to see if got a good one in stock as its about half the price or less. Saying that depending on how new it is might just spend the £30 odd on new and fit

[Gabbastard]

Always check your local dealer, they can get all the genuine parts that 106parts do (surprisingly) plus they can discount the prices a bit as well.

[saxo24]

Updated price comparison on the two larger parts , the 'selection bar' and the 'stock control return':

From the dealerships
checked out both my local Citroen and Peugeot dealerships and both gave the same price for these:

2414A7 Selection Bar : £77.86 + VAT (£93.43inc)
244965 Stock Control Return : £41.30 + VAT (£49.56inc)

Total for both, inc VAT : £142.99

Seems the prices have gone up a bit over the years (compared to the OP's prices anyway) - don't know if its just my local dealerships or what but the selection bar looks pricey.

106parts.com:

2414A7 Selection Bar : £111.21
244965 Stock Control Return : £59.84

Total for both, inc VAT : £171.05

[Rossp]

106parts has pretty much ALWAYS been a fucking rip off.

They buy parts from the dealers, add 20-50% markup, then list the item on their website.

If you buy from them and not direct from a dealer (particularly when most dealers when you get chatting to the parts team will give you a nice discount anyway...) then you're desperate lol

[Scotty-vts]

Good write up my vts needs doing I have all the parts req just wondering how long it takes to do
Thanks Scott


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[AntscVTR]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GEAR-LINKS...item20e67bbd54

Here's the full set (minus the split pin) on fleabay for £120

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAND-NEW-...item35e54f9410

Split pin for £4

[Jack]

Originally Posted by AntscVTR

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GEAR-LINKS...item20e67bbd54

Here's the full set (minus the split pin) on fleabay for £120

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAND-NEW-...item35e54f9410

Split pin for £4

The roll pins are less than 50p from a main dealer - that's a massive rip off!

[gerrankin]

Originally Posted by Darkslider

So with the fiddly bit over and done with all that’s left is to refit the new bits! As I’m waiting for my uprated linkages I’ve refitted the old ones for now, but the worst of the play was in the gearbox arm, the selector rod and the ball on the control return so with those all sorted there’s a massive difference. Not even sure I needed the uprated rods, but there is a tiny bit of play still in each one so I’ll still put them on when they get here just for the finishing touch.

So the control return arm and selector rod are fitted back together, all moving parts, cups and sockets are coated in grease just to make everything feel smooth:



Not forgetting to refit and tighten the diagonal brace to the wishbone mount:



The old gear rods all popped on by hand with a bit of grease, though I’ll fit my uprated ones as soon as they arrive. With everything reassembled and working fine the car can be dropped down and the inside put back together:



The quickshift adjustment is by the two locking collars on the lever. The lever can be set at any height in the housing to adjust the throw, I played around with mine to get it how I wanted it, then when I was happy a drop of loctite on each of the grub screws and a final tightening up made it nice and solid.

I cut the back off the old lever housing to act as the bracket for the centre console, with the housing and console re drilled it can be fitted back as it was before:





Then window switches, gaitor and knob back on with loctite again and that’s it!



The difference between the new and old gearchange is night and day, a massive improvement and definitely worth doing if you’re planning on track days or fast driving. I’ve never driven a Satchshift fitted car but with how this feels now I’m not sure I can see the point!

Hi there i installed the full kit now its nice and tight

Slight problem though its a bit stiff in reverse,2,4 gear

I greased up everything with copper grease

Think its the nylin ball its a really tight fit

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[CrimsonKing]

Hi there, super guide by Darkslider, has really helped with getting familiar with the process. Before I remove the old worn out control arm, regarding removing the diagonal brace to the wishbone mount, can this be done while the suspension is under load (ie, with the car on ramps) or does it need to be done unloaded with the car on axle stands, or does it make no difference?

Thanks.

[Spendyrx]

Originally Posted by gerrankin

Hi there i installed the full kit now its nice and tight

Slight problem though its a bit stiff in reverse,2,4 gear

I greased up everything with copper grease

Think its the nylin ball its a really tight fit

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I know it's an oldish thread revival but I recently replaced my linkages and had a problem with 2nd 4th and reverse being stiff, I used moly grease on my linkages and the big ball too! Imo I think these greases as above mentioned are a bit thick strangely! I bought a tin of wd40 ptfe and sprayed it direct to the linkages and linkage ball (sorry not sure what the right name is) and its worked brilliantly! 2nd 4th and reverse have now loosened up for now, I only done this on the weekend so how long it will last for I'm not sure but on the tin it's oil and dirt repellent so hopefully it'll last until the summer and I'll spray it down again!

[AdamH]

Its quite common after removing the linkages that reverse / 4th can lock or be stiff at first...

I put this down to the rods not being fitted correctly / at the right angle and always recommend jiggling the rods once fitted.. you shouldn't need extra grease...