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Old 10th May 2022, 16:03   #181
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Seems dead on here, but I shall continue...

Previous problems resolved:
- Fixed the power steering being on - it was a bad earth.
- Codes : Mainly the cabon canister valve, which I have lost! but got one off FB marketplace to stop the EML coming on.
- Idle AFR just sorted itself.
- The Fan was wired wrong (whoops), so that works
- Turbo blanket fitted properly now







All re-assembled and running.



New problems:
- Smoke and misfire on startup.
This was present before, I thought it was the stem seals and had them replaced. However, it hasn't cured it. So presume it is the guides. (surely the machine shop would check this...). Anyway, I borescoped it and can see oil in the piston pocket on 2 cylinders when the engine has cooled.
It runs fine and no smoke on boost etc, just appears when the car has cooled or been off, for a period.
I'm still using cheap mineral oil, whilst running it in, so will see what a 'proper' oil does. Albeit, I'm not expecting anything to change. Its likely the head will need to come off in the future

- Oil pressure warning!
When the car was idling, the oil pressure light was flashing! Just faintly.
Got the pressure testing kit out.



Good cold idle pressure.



Low hot idle pressure. Which is the norm, apparently. The stock Oil pressure sensor is something like 5psi before it triggers the light on the dash. As I'd had to change to a 1/8npt sensor (After market) I'd just gone for anything - which turns out was a fixed 20psi sensor. Whoops. Bought another with a lower value.


The other day, I fitted the Electronic boost controller (Gizzmo) and an oil temperature sensor. The oil temp sensor is to just keep an eye on the values, given I haven't fitted the thermostatic oil cooler as yet. The turbo is oil cooled only, so interested to see the numbers.



Car is clean (ish) and just awaiting an MOT, before more running-in. Running 8 psi, at the moment, until I feel more confident of going back to 20+psi


Last edited by sri_130; 10th May 2022 at 16:16.
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Old 22nd May 2022, 15:23   #182
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hello, that is a nice build.
I am building a saxo turbo too (everything running fine so far), but I wanted to change the cooling and go for a diesel header tank too (I have a MS ecu inside the car).
But I am not sure how to connect the tubing to the header tank, I suppose lower tube on the rad goes to the waterpump en you make a T to the lower connection on the header tank ? And the upper connection on the rad goes to the upper connection on header tank ? Or am I wrong ? thank you
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Old 22nd May 2022, 16:17   #183
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scatt View Post
hello, that is a nice build.
I am building a saxo turbo too (everything running fine so far), but I wanted to change the cooling and go for a diesel header tank too (I have a MS ecu inside the car).
But I am not sure how to connect the tubing to the header tank, I suppose lower tube on the rad goes to the waterpump en you make a T to the lower connection on the header tank ? And the upper connection on the rad goes to the upper connection on header tank ? Or am I wrong ? thank you
Yes that's exactly how you connect it up.

The other small pipe on the header tank can be blocked off.

I'm using 1.5d pipework so I didn't need to cut and T it in.
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Old 23rd May 2022, 16:09   #184
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Quote:
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Yes that's exactly how you connect it up.

The other small pipe on the header tank can be blocked off.

I'm using 1.5d pipework so I didn't need to cut and T it in.
thx for confirming !
Apparently that tube is still available new, this should be the correct one ?
https://www.trodo.com/radiator-hose-gates-05-4051

On the diesel there is the third degassing hose that goes to the thermostat housing, any idea why don't need it ?
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Old 23rd May 2022, 21:58   #185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scatt View Post
thx for confirming !
Apparently that tube is still available new, this should be the correct one ?
https://www.trodo.com/radiator-hose-gates-05-4051

On the diesel there is the third degassing hose that goes to the thermostat housing, any idea why don't need it ?
Yes there are 3 outlets on the header tank. The furthest top one, I have blanked off.
The second smaller one on the top, I have put into the top of the radiator.
The bottom outlet, goes into the lower water pipe of the radiator, on the way to the back of the engine.
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Old 23rd May 2022, 22:08   #186
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I have delayed the MOT but done a few test runs, to see how the car goes.

With this new 'setup' of intercooler and pipe work, engine rebuild etc etc. the actuator pressure is actually 10psi So that's what is boosts to, at the moment.
I presume with the shorter pipe run (literally half the path) with less joiners and a single pass, rather than twin pass intercooler - there are less leaks and less voids to fill, hence the better pressure on the same actuator as before. Could also be the Astra diesel van intercooler was just poo.

It feels ace. The clutch took a few mins to get warm and bed in, but after that, it was all smiles.

https://youtube.com/shorts/EneQYWD1r28?feature=share

I think I wired the oil temperature the wrong way round - as it shows a negative temp! LOL.

https://youtube.com/shorts/PcuLaAw2HVo?feature=share

Only problem came about 15 minutes into the testing. The AFR at idle dropped to 9! Black smoke and hesitation at lower revs.
Got home and plugged it in, to see P0170. Check lambda values and they were either 0.2v or 4.98v! which is crazy.
Unplugged the lambda, but the car stayed the same. Low AFR and struggling to idle.
I left it overnight, but the next day, it started up and was the same. Same odd lambda values reported as well.

Only cure was to clear the codes and it was fine again. Lambda values returned the normal and AFR back at 14.7 on idle.

Not totally sure what is going on, but obviously start with the Lambda replacement. I have a slight concern that it is too close to the turbo... so maybe it is super heating or something. So I've ordered a spacer, to try and get it a bit further away.
The wideband o2 sensor is further down the pipe work and that seems to be ok.

Interestingly my old MT2500 snap-on scanner calls the p0170 code as "fuel injection malfunction" yet google seems to suggest this a is a fuel trim code. Presuming it is just the same thing. Just find it odd, that clearing the codes reset it... hmmm.

Used an old heat gun and some trim restorer, on the exterior.



Also had these rear door cards forever. They fit pretty terrible, but they'll do! Keep the road noise down a little.



Also the blue smoke at startup, seems to be reduced. Unlikely to be fully resolved, but need do a few hundred miles before changing the running in oil and see what happens.

Last edited by sri_130; 23rd May 2022 at 22:17.
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Old 25th May 2022, 21:12   #187
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...and.... it is broken

Oil has coated the entire engine, having come out of the breather on the side of the head. It's one of them little oil filter things.
The remaining oil has been burnt out of the exhaust - all this in, 20 yards.
Checked the dipstick and it's all gone!

Presuming it's the turbo, but not sure.
Damn it.

Will diagnose it and see what the damage is.
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Old 27th May 2022, 23:37   #188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scatt View Post
thx for confirming !
Apparently that tube is still available new, this should be the correct one ?
https://www.trodo.com/radiator-hose-gates-05-4051

On the diesel there is the third degassing hose that goes to the thermostat housing, any idea why don't need it ?
Because on a 16v cylinder head, it's not there because there's no diesel fuel filter to heat.
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Old 30th May 2022, 12:37   #189
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Turns out, the turbo is not happy. Probably not happy that it hasn't been used in... well... forever I guess. Similar to how I feel about the entire car!

The intercooler had about a litre of oil in it. The turbo outlet from the compressor, actually goes into a U-bend, that enters the bottom of the intercooler. This U-bend was full. The car had therefore been drinking oil.

Dropped it all out, put some 10/50 fully synth in there and took the pipes off the turbo.



After all that smoke had calmed down, oil is just pissing out of the compressor housing.

Checked the oil drain - not blocked, correct size and facing perfectly south - enters above the oil level in the sump. Checked blow-by = none. Checked oil pressure = normal. Even compression tested the engine - all uniform on all cylinders.

The turbo is now with AET, for their diagnosis. When I removed it, evidence was there to suggest its come through the turbine side seal as well.
Hopefully it can be repaired cheap enough.
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Old 1st June 2022, 16:50   #190
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Sorry haven't read the whole thread

are you using a bb turbo and is your restrictor restricting the oil flow/pressure enough?
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Old 1st June 2022, 16:59   #191
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Quote:
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Sorry haven't read the whole thread

are you using a bb turbo and is your restrictor restricting the oil flow/pressure enough?
No it's a journal turbo, so no restrictor.

Just been down to pay/collect it......and..... I have a new turbo!



Bit of a shame, the old one had severe shaft and journal wear, enough to wear the seal grooves and thus leak from both ends. Caused by oil contamination apparently.
Suspect this happened last time I had the engine done.

Will install and go again! fingers crossed.
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Old 18th June 2022, 11:40   #192
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Ahh I was in the right area, but for the wrong reason.

Maybe needing to upgrade to a super fine oil filter?
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Old 14th September 2022, 13:02   #193
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double post

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Old 14th September 2022, 13:02   #194
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So, I fitted a new turbo - which was the same as the one that came off.

I put an inline oil filter to it, this time.





Had a couple of dramas with the actuator bracket, as it wasn't the same as my old turbo and thus, wouldn't allow me to fit the bloody thing. But sorted it, in the end.
This turbo also came with studs fitted to the exhaust flange, wherease my old one just required bolts. Prefer the studs tbf.

We are back running. Albeit, at low boost for a while. This rebuild has had a turbulent start, so I'll increase the boost incrementally. This can be done from inside the car now, with the EBC, which is great.



I still have an outstanding issue with the valve guides. I believe these are worn and were not picked up by the machine shop, when I had new stem seals put in/skim/ etc. It is only visible at cold start, where blue smoke appears for about 10 seconds.
I can live with it for now, as the car isn't really used anyway, but it is annoying, considering the effort and cost gone into it, thus far.

Autumn/Winter I would like to focus on the rear. Getting the underside cleaned/protected and dropping the axle to put some polybushes in.

However, for the final few dry weekend days, I'll mostly be booting it around locally, making turbo noises.

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