POTATO race car.... updates/development parts greyjasper51's VTRS tin top race car - Page 17 - Saxperience

greyjasper51 · 18th April 2013, 12:39

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Thats just after getting it back to the workshop

its on the stand being ripped apart, more photos tonight

greyjasper51 · 22nd April 2013, 17:54

More work done

front and rear main oil seals and sump is back on

greyjasper51 · 23rd April 2013, 10:32

So been thinking and talking to a few people at work... Im thinking get the 16v lump in and working all happy... Track day it and see how it all feels then time for the work... Because the stock hatch class has kinda fallen flat on its face tin tops seems the next viable option...

So...
Yamaha r6 carbs
Gas flow the head
3 angle valve seats (new valves)
743 cams (more research needed for these yet)
4-2-1 manifold coupled to the pugsport ive already got
Emerald k6 management
Twin fan setup

Should see about 150bhp fingers crossed...

After that...
Would like a 1.4 xsi box with an lsd (that will have to wait a while tho)

15 inch wheel maybe something like a super turismo...
Federal fz 201 tyres

266 brake kit again carbon lorraine pads and possibly drilled and grooved disks...

Gaz gold full setup (tbh i like the std suspension on it atm...)

See how that goes

Lemmie know what everyone thinks

Btw just like the idea of the carbs

AlexB^p · 23rd April 2013, 10:36

You wont want a twin fan on a track car
Fans do nothing when your moving except block the portion of the rad behind the fans motor reducing your cooling

Tom5190 · 23rd April 2013, 12:39

You should see more than 150hp on that setup matey by quite abit. Any reason your using carbs over itb's?

greyjasper51 · 23rd April 2013, 13:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by AlexB

You wont want a twin fan on a track car
Fans do nothing when your moving except block the portion of the rad behind the fans motor reducing your cooling

Its more for when i come in mate the heat soak can leave it ticking over i can put both fans on and remove all the heat from it before switching it off to stop the heat soak damaging anything... Also to stop fuel evaporation if theres a red flag, just to keep everything under control...

greyjasper51 · 23rd April 2013, 13:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom5190

You should see more than 150hp on that setup matey by quite abit. Any reason your using carbs over itb's?

Tbh mate ive been talking to a few people at work who race and it was all bar one prefered the carb but went bodies cus they were rallying and arent full throttle all the time... They went better on the tarmac stages with carbs than bodies... But obviously on gravel and mud they are half throttle and on and off more so the itb's are a better option for them... Tbh if they arent good then its just swap for gsxr 1000 bodies and an extension on the loom and then were on itb's.... Obvious changes like fuel pump and that...

Predticted power output?

Tom5190 · 23rd April 2013, 13:57

It depends on the other factors aswell in terms of the output but id be suprised if you could see a better torque curve with the carbs than ITBS on that.

Peak could be anywere between 160-170 depending on how well the head is done etc but at that sort of level id be more intrested in getting a nice torque curve from it than the peak power. Who is making the manifold for it and doing the head work? you could sacrafice some peak hp for an overall better curve its probly the best option for tin tops with this spec. imo

greyjasper51 · 23rd April 2013, 15:37

Ill be doing the head work, weve got a gas flow machine at work so ill sit in there of a lunch or 6 break and flow it... Tbh im just aiming for 150+ and a decent curve, torque figure is important granted but for track its abit less important, rallying id fully agree but the track its more important to keep a smoother line and up the corner speed

less torque needed

AlexB^p · 24th April 2013, 07:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by greyjasper51

Its more for when i come in mate the heat soak can leave it ticking over i can put both fans on and remove all the heat from it before switching it off to stop the heat soak damaging anything... Also to stop fuel evaporation if theres a red flag, just to keep everything under control...

I only run a piddy 12" slimline never had any issues except in belgium sitting in motorway traffic for ages when i had accidentally got the fan running backwards in my rush to get the car assembled the few days before lol

If your in the paddock leaving it running just pop the bonnet up

jpsaxo · 24th April 2013, 08:06

I had the same fan Alex, although admittedly fitted the correct way around lol, and it still couldn't control the temperature at a steady rate in the same traffic in Belgium, the water temp gauge was slowly rising

If it was me I'd recommend doing a proper job and getting a Spal fan, I sat in traffic getting into trax last year and it kept the water temp nice and steady for over half an hour of hardly moving at all

AlexB^p · 24th April 2013, 08:09

Ive got a spal now (came on the gti so kept it)
In the uk the ebay ones are good enough though imo

Still though i think a twin fan is overkill
Im not advising to get a slimline btw just saying you dont need 2 fans

I used to run just a vtr fan on my car it was more than ample

greyjasper51 · 24th April 2013, 12:54

I only say this because last weekend at brands i was there on the tools for my paint sprayer, hes got a fiesta st from the st cup class running in the tin tops and he had fan issues... After 8 mins in qualy it was overheating and he come in... Fixed the fan wiring issue and went out for the first heat i wired him in an override on the high speed setting, just in case... The fan needs to be working for on track use and on the high speed setting it blows at about 140-145 mph gust... So even flat out on the straight your looking at 30mph more being dragged through the rad on top of the 115 you touch before going into paddock (thats what it was showing on the speedo in my saxo...) also when you come in and stop if you switch it off the water flow stops and even with the bonnet open the heat soak drags it up, im talking about stopping opening the bonnet and keeping the fans full blast on tick over to take the temp right down to almost the bottom of the gauge (50-55 degrees) then switching it off... Maybe im not explaining it well...

Yeah i do understand what your saying about blocked airflow but a hole cutter will sort that out

(structural integrity not affected...)

Also following traffic it will creep up and just that extra help should prevent any rise of temperature

On a track day you either pass within a few laps and are gone or they pass and disappear but racing you could behind them for a few laps before you get past or they make a mistake... Follow my jist now?

Im not saying what your saying is rubbish its just there other things influencing my decision as well...