Vts ECU not showing data - Saxperience

elliotthorwood · 30th March 2018, 13:19

Have a weird problem with a 3 plug vts, connecting through obd shows no data for any sensors apart from the rpm. It will show fault codes though.

Using a cheap Bluetooth scanner but the same scanner works on a 3 plug vtr and a few other cars I have tried. It will show all sensor data i.e lambda, injector and map but it doesn't want to work on the vts.

I have seen plenty of other people using these on late model vts so does this mean the ECU could be the problem The car runs like a dog hence the reason for scanning. Replacing sensors for known working ones and it is making no difference to the codes it's throwing.

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MartinObviously · 30th March 2018, 17:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by elliotthorwood

Have a weird problem with a 3 plug vts, connecting through obd shows no data for any sensors apart from the rpm. It will show fault codes though.

Using a cheap Bluetooth scanner but the same scanner works on a 3 plug vtr and a few other cars I have tried. It will show all sensor data i.e lambda, injector and map but it doesn't want to work on the vts.

I have seen plenty of other people using these on late model vts so does this mean the ECU could be the problem The car runs like a dog hence the reason for scanning. Replacing sensors for known working ones and it is making no difference to the codes it's throwing.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Potentially this could be the problem, I'm in the same boat with my GTi.

Sometimes they just simply can't communicate, they're fussy ECU's. You will need pp2000/diagbox and a lexia cable.

Mine used to work with the OBD bluetooth and torque app, but after an update in 2013 it stopped working.

Chipwizards · 30th March 2018, 22:02

It's normal. Some software versions only put out rpm on EOBD data stream.

You do get more data on vehicle-specific data requests though. (so if you connect with something like a snap-on or Autel scan tool and go in via the manufacturer and model you'll see more data, as well as vehicle-specific codes.

elliotthorwood · 31st March 2018, 12:53

Thanks for the replies, that's kind of frustrating though I was hoping you would say my ECU is fried and I know then I know the problem lol.

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Chipwizards · 1st April 2018, 12:54

You could have a different software version put into it that does give more data on OBD if you wanted.

elliotthorwood · 1st April 2018, 14:16

That would be very handy to actually get some information from the car. The problem I'm having is I'm getting fault codes but going round in circles changing sensors to get new codes.

While i have got you, is it normal for the TPS to go from just over 5v closed then gradually to around .50 at WOT? Everything I have read goes from .5 to 5v at WOT.

The new code is p0105 along with p0300 so new Bosch map and Citroen TPS

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Chipwizards · 1st April 2018, 21:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by elliotthorwood

While i have got you, is it normal for the TPS to go from just over 5v closed then gradually to around .50 at WOT? Everything I have read goes from .5 to 5v at WOT.

The new code is p0105 along with p0300 so new Bosch map and Citroen TPS

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No, it sounds like you have the wrong hand of TPS.

You do have the one with the 'D' shaped stainless backplate and not the all-plastic one?

Try unplugging the tps and then clear the codes and see how it runs then. You will have acceleration flat spots of course but see if that fixes other issues.

The ECU does 'plausibility' checks to see if sensor outputs are likely to be right or wrong. Basically the MAP value vs RPM and TPS are not plausible, hence the codes.

elliotthorwood · 2nd April 2018, 08:53

Yeah it has a stainless back piece, trying to get one new is a nightmare as everyone stocks the all plastic ones.

Unplugging and clearing the code cleans it up alot as in the idle will still fluctuate but only -/+ around 50 rpm and it will rev quite cleanly. Still likes to randomly rev on its own every now and then.

How do I make sure that I get the right TPS?

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Chipwizards · 2nd April 2018, 15:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by elliotthorwood

How do I make sure that I get the right TPS?

Get one from Citroen/Peugeot

Yes, it will be more expensive than an aftermarket one but at least it will be the RIGHT one and not a shit Chinese copy like everyone sells in the aftermarket these days.

elliotthorwood · 2nd April 2018, 15:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chipwizards

Get one from Citroen/Peugeot

Yes, it will be more expensive than an aftermarket one but at least it will be the RIGHT one and not a shit Chinese copy like everyone sells in the aftermarket these days.

It is a genuine Citroen one brand new from the dealer, I have swapped the outside wires and now have the correct voltage which increases gradually from around .5 to 5.

What kind of voltages should I see from a map sensor? Ignition on, engine off I am getting .47 and when it is idling (jumping around being a nause) i am getting between 2.4 - 2.8
Fault code is still p0105

Sorry to be hounding you with questions but I am at my wit's end and noone else ever seems to want to help so I am very grateful

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Chipwizards · 3rd April 2018, 22:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by elliotthorwood

It is a genuine Citroen one brand new from the dealer, I have swapped the outside wires and now have the correct voltage which increases gradually from around .5 to 5.

What kind of voltages should I see from a map sensor? Ignition on, engine off I am getting .47 and when it is idling (jumping around being a nause) i am getting between 2.4 - 2.8
Fault code is still p0105

Neither measurement makes sense, how exactly are you measuring the voltage? Where is your multi-meter ground (black wire) going to and which pins are you connecting the red lead to?

The TPS isn't a potentiometer, it's a hall proximity sensor, so you can't (shouldn't) just swap the wires around. Obviously, the wires didn't swap themselves around when you weren't watching so they shouldn't need to be swapped in any case, unless the loom has been cocked-up by somebody.

Also, the MAP sensor should read close to 5v (maybe 4.6 or so) ignition on, but not running and typically around 2.4v idling, but that does depend on how much vac your engine pulls, which is affected by several factors.

elliotthorwood · 4th April 2018, 10:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chipwizards

Neither measurement makes sense, how exactly are you measuring the voltage? Where is your multi-meter ground (black wire) going to and which pins are you connecting the red lead to?

The TPS isn't a potentiometer, it's a hall proximity sensor, so you can't (shouldn't) just swap the wires around. Obviously, the wires didn't swap themselves around when you weren't watching so they shouldn't need to be swapped in any case, unless the loom has been cocked-up by somebody.

Also, the MAP sensor should read close to 5v (maybe 4.6 or so) ignition on, but not running and typically around 2.4v idling, but that does depend on how much vac your engine pulls, which is affected by several factors.

retesting the map last night gave me 4.82 and the same range of 2.4v - 2.8v (idle bounces from 700-1400) on idle which going by what you have said is correct.

TPS is a strange one as like you say unless someone has tampered with the loom it should not work which i understand, i cant see how it makes sense either.

I feel the same about the wiring loom to be honest, loom and ecu came from a different seller. Changed the ecu as he said it was mapped with no rev limit which i didnt fancy using.

before this combination of codes i had coolant circuit code and a lambda code always paired with the p0300 changing those for new sensors worked. only p0300 remained but the noticed battery light on the dash flickering so swapped the alternator. now i am left with p0105 & p0300