Here is a guide for anyone who has a Saxo that didn’t come with electric windows and wishes to have them in their car. There isn’t any guide on here on how to do it, instead there is loads of threads asking how it’s done also people have contacted me asking how to do it and the Haynes manual is pretty daunting. I recently fitted them to my car and they came out a success so by following my guide hopefully you should achieve the same and should make more sense.
PLEASE NOTE:
By following my guide I am not held responsible if anything that goes wrong or any damage caused to vehicle in any way relating to this guide. The guide was made purely so that people could refer to as help when installing for themselves and get an insight into how I achieved it, follow this guide at your own risk however nothing should happen as this works perfect on my vehicle and nothing has happened.
Step 1: Tools and parts required
The tools and equipment that you will need to complete the job are as follows however other tools may be used to help you along (see optional section bellow list)
Tools:
• Torx screw set
• Small wrench/socket set
• Pliers
• Rivet gun with rivets/screw and bolts
• Multi-metre/voltage test probe
• Inline fuse holders (x2) 30a blade fuse (x1) 5a or 7.5a blade fuse (x1)
• Solder and or Electrical tape
• Drill with drill piece slightly bigger than the inner circle of the rivet
(Optional)
Jump leads and bare cable e.g. subwoofer speaker cable:
This can be used to test and use during the installation to see if the motors work and to move the window slider to make it easier to connect window. This will be explained further in guide on how this helps
Parts Needed
The parts needed will obviously be the full electric windows set, and they are as followed:
•
Left hand door regulator (slider already attached)
•
Right hand door regulator (slider already attached)
•
Full wiring and relay (this is crucial so to make sure you have the full thing, if your stripping it out of a saxo yourself start from the switches and the cables are tied together with tape so grab them all in your hand and work your way through the cable right to the relay behind the passenger fuse box. Include the relay the wires are attached to as this too will be needed. The other cable that will be needed are the ones from the motors there is four beige colour ones two per motor. These will be split by the door grommets in mk2 saxo’s. Here you have two options, 1. Take the full grommet in case you want electric mirrors too. 2. Snip the two wires before and after the grommet and re wire them later (this is what I did as is easier)
•
Centre console with switches
•
Corresponding door cards/ use original ones and modify pattern design
Step 2: Removing door cards
I won’t go into detail here as many people already know how to do this, if not sure here is a quick guide on it:
http://www.saxperience.com/forum/sho...ove+door+cards
Step 3: Disconnecting window from the supports
This step applies to both doors and can be easy but fiddly, top remove the window put the window winding handle back in and wind the window down until you can see the bottom of the window and the white block as this is what holds the window and move it up and down. Once level put your hand behind the window (the outside of the glass) and you will feel a plastic square piece, this need removing and to do so you twist the plastic bit clockwise until it is loose, then without dropping lift it off and put it somewhere safe as you will need it when reconnecting the window. Then push the bottom of the window forwards carefully but with a little force and pull back on the plastic block to remove the window of the block hinge. Once you have successfully done this put one hand underneath the window and one at the top and lift the window manually to the top making sure that the window stays in its sliders on either side of the door. Once you have done this get a very patient mate who will hold the glass up to stop it from dropping back down or their should be enough grip on the window not to move however not worth the risk to temporally cable tie a loop between the inside door frame and outside door frame so that if it drops down the cable ties will catch it safely or alternatively completely remove the window and wrap in a cloth to prevent scratches. This is fiddlier later as you have to put the window back in and never goes in right first time.
Step 4: Removing Winding Mechanism
Again this applies to both doors, Get your drill with a drill piece slightly bigger than the inner diameter of the rivets holding the mechanism in place, there are three of them and they all need drilling out you can drill right through to pop them out but if dong the before drilling wind the window back up a bit so that the dill piece will be clear of the glass so that you can’t drill through the glass. Line the drill up and drill at the rivet with a bit of force to break the rivet, this should pop the rivets through and the remains will drop down the inside of the door, so remove them after drilling to prevent rattling noise when driving lol then lift the mechanism off the door.
Step 5: Removing mechanism sliders from the door
Applying to both doors, before completely removing the sliders, wind the window back down to half way to make it easier to connect the window back on the white block, once you have done this then there are two brass bolts at the top and bottom of the inner door frame that holds the slider in place, to find them look at the slider and look directly above and below to find them. To remove is simple use a wrench or socket set and UN-tighten them and keep in a safe place for when you bolt in the new slider. Then with your thumb push the screw that is reviled inwards to disconnect it from its support hole in door frame do this to both screws. The slider will now be loose in the door so with a bit of twisting and turning pull it out of the gaps in the door frame.
Step 6: inserting new electric window sliders and mount motors
Applying to both doors, to insert the electric motor and sliders is just the reverse of removing the windy ones. Making sure that the orange cables are crossed over, best way is to place the motor were its going to go and visualise how it would connect, also the orange tube with the black foam over it goes to the bottom of the window and the full orange tube goes to the top of the window, look at the picture below to give you an idea, without crossing the tubes the motor wont wind up and down properly and the slider wont mount properly. Insert the slider, push the screws back into the mounting holes and re tighten them back up with the bolts you kept safe then place the motor over the holes were the rivets were drilled out, this is perfect as the electric motor sits flush with the old windy mechanism. Then either with bolts or a rivet gun mount the motor into the door frame, bearing in mind that if you rivet without checking if the motor works you will have to waste time removing the rivets to get the motor off, so best bet is to temp or permanent screw and bolt the motor in place.
Step 7: re - insert the window back on the block hinge on slider
Applying to both doors again the reverse of taking them off, you can cut away the cable ties holding the window or stop your mate from holding the window lol. With your hands again top and bottom push the window down the door until you line it up with the white block, then push the window back onto the hinge and re-insert the square plastic block back on the window and twist anticlockwise until it clicks in place, now it’s safe enough to let go of the window make sure you double check the window is in its slide holders on both sides of the door otherwise the window won’t lift properly or will get stuck.
Test motors are working
To test the motors are working without wiring into the main electrics, get a set of jump leads or thick gauge power wire, and make them long enough to reach both doors if not then get some thick ish wire again and jump them off the jump leads and with the bare wire temp wrap the + copper cable over one of the motor wires and the – to the other don’t worry about blowing the motor as it works on reverse polarity so power goes through one cable to lift window and power goes through the other cable to lower the window so one cable has power and not the other they don’t both have power running through it at the same time with being reverse polarity. Then once wired up make sure that the bare copper don’t touch each other or the door frame as this WILL sort it. Then when all sorted clip the cable from the battery side to the negative with the – clip and hold the + clip to the + of the battery, here you should see the window lift up. If it doesn’t then disconnect the + clip from the battery and go back to the bare wires on the door and swap them over. Then try again with + clip on the + terminal then the window should rise, if it does then the motors are working perfect if not there is either a fault with the motor or the window isn’t aligned properly with the motor preventing it from lifting so check everything over.
Step 8: wiring up
This is the time consuming part, if you have cut any cables in order to remove it from previous saxo the re wire them back together making sure you wire the cables to the corresponding cable e.g. thick cable from switch (b70014) wire to extended cable thick blue (b70014). You can both solder them and tape up or just re wire and then tape up.
Then list the carpet and lay the cables underneath it. Then the switch connector block side lay the cables and connector under the lower console carpet, I found it best to cut a strip down the centre and feed the cables underneath or just lay them over the top either way the lower console will hide them.
Next step is to re-insert the lower console and feed the blocks through the switch cut out
And re- attach switches
Then separate the four beige wires two to one door and two to the other, making sure the numbers on the cables match the ones connected to the motors. Feed the cables through the door grommet and re wire them or solder them back onto the loom and tap over to prevent shortage if touched.
The earth cables from the loom and one off the relay join them together into one earth cable and with a spade connector crimped on the cable, connect it to an earth point like the one I’ve done below:
And finally wiring the remaining cables to the relay and to a 12v feed. Ok so on the relay there are 4 wires:
1x power (thick red/pink cable)
1x earth (thin green and yellow cable)
1x ignition (thin gray cable)
1x blue power cable (supplying power to the switches)
Put an inline fuse on the power cable (pink one NOT blue) and insert a 30a fuse in it. Then feed that cable to underneath the steering Colum and locate the ignition live. This can be done by using a multimeter, when power off 0volts, power on 12volts, start car drops to 0 volts then back to 12volts. If using light probe then same principle, light on when powered; light off when starting the car, light back on when car is started.
When you find this cable disconnect the battery and strip back the insulation and wire the pink/red cable from the relay to that. This means that when the car is off power isn’t going to the electric motors and running battery down. Do the same to the gray ignition cable; put an inline fuse on and fuse of 5/7.5a and wire to the ignition live cable. Once this is don’t tape up any exposed cable to protect from shortage. Wire the earth to an earth point (easy) and finally wire the blue cable to the thick blue cable on the switch loom, this supplies power to the switches.
And that’s all the wiring!!!!
Step 9: mount relay and plug
This is easy enough, look underneath and behind the passenger fuse box you will see a metal bracket with a plug next to it, here is where you mount your relay and plug.
The relay with pins can be removed from the plug like below:
This helps as when mounting to the bracket it sits comfortably. Place the plug on one side of the bracket like so:
And mount the rely on the other side don’t worry the relay plugs in only one way so you can’t make a mistake and plug it to the wrong ports. Push the relay into the plug till it clicks in place and then the relay will be sat perfectly in the bracket like so:
And that’s your relay all wired up!!
Step 10: finally TEST the Windows!!!!
This is the final and fun part see if it all works, re connect the battery and then put the key in the ignition and turn on the power (one turn battery light is shown) and press the buttons up and down, windows should work!! If you find that the left switch controls the right and vice verse, then disconnect the switches and swap the wire connectors the other way around, re connect switches and test.
The outcome should be like this:
Finishing off touches
When happy with work re-insert the door cards and cable tie any cables loose in case you need to refer back to them and just to keep them tidy also
now would be a good time to either re trim doors as a hole will be visible were the old mechanism went or replace the door cards with vtr/s door cars to give it a flush finish also you can cable tie the loose cables from the motor to the door frame to prevent them getting underneath the window as it lowers and potentially ripping the cable to solve this just cable tie both cable to a spare hole on the door frame like below.
Thank you for having the patients to read and hope this guide helps a lot of people.
If you have any problems or question relating please let me know and i’ll do my best to sort it out
Thanks
Morgiee
How-To Guide: Installing Electric Windows
good guide let ou know how it goes.
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