Brakes upgrade to stop my vtr ??

[DanielT92]

Originally Posted by SimbaVTR

How much did you pick yours up for Daniel?

I payed £30 delivered for my 266's. They are not fitted yet as they are in need of a refurb. I suggest you PM Mikol if your after some 266's

[AL3X_]

Out of interest people, i've got VTS wheels wrapped in Yoko S drives, and I had mine locking up and sliding to the left when I slammed on for an ambulance round a blind corner, whats the problem here?

[kristel10589]

8ive got 300 bhp, struggle to get power down so you know what, iam going to tune me engine to 350bhp, that should do it.

[KamRacing]

Originally Posted by AL3X_

Out of interest people, i've got VTS wheels wrapped in Yoko S drives, and I had mine locking up and sliding to the left when I slammed on for an ambulance round a blind corner, whats the problem here?

I dont know anything about the tyres, but road camber, surface condition and the balance of the car are all massive contributors to how a car reacts under braking, as well as the driver imputs...

[chinkostu]

Originally Posted by AL3X_

Out of interest people, i've got VTS wheels wrapped in Yoko S drives, and I had mine locking up and sliding to the left when I slammed on for an ambulance round a blind corner, whats the problem here?

because you were turning. i've had mine almost sideways when a van wandered into my lane on a corner!

[tillygti6]

your all overlooking one massive influence here, the rear brake compensator! if the cars lowered or the compensators seized the rear brake bias will be more than wanted! it will unbalance the car on turn in then the back will wander and thats when you shit your pants.
most track cars of low weight run very very little rear braking!!!!!

[Oc2]

Originally Posted by tillygti6

your all overlooking one massive influence here, the rear brake compensator! if the cars lowered or the compensators seized the rear brake bias will be more than wanted! it will unbalance the car on turn in then the back will wander and thats when you shit your pants.
most track cars of low weight run very very little rear braking!!!!!

IIRC the standard balance is only about 20% braking force to the back, but thats a waste.

Rear brakes are pretty much (certainly drum brakes) purly for the hand brake

[tillygti6]

its generally 60-40 split, but as the cars are lowered the valve thinks the car has more people in hence greater pressure. and seldom are they cleaned/serviced.
my moneys on the rear compensator, but then what do i know.......

[Morgan_VTR]

^ brake bias valve? or is that something completely different?

I think when mine was done the lad adjusted it so it was less influence over the rear brakes.

[tillygti6]

same thing different name basiclly, however the bias valves generally only deal with a single line and the compensators often self regulate one or more lines. they should be adjusted and kept an eye on. a couple of circuits i play on would always catch the brakes out, causing the rears to lock at an inopertune moment, gforce camber and entry speed all effect the standard job.

[AL3X_]

This sounds like it may be my problem, as tonight slamming on in the wet the car slid towards the side of the road, whilst my steering was straight, my car is lowered 60mm on the back with a sub in the boot, what do I need to do to the bias valve to sort the problem so if it does lock up it at least goes in a straight line?

Cheers

[mlawlan69]

Originally Posted by KamRacing

I was always told to stop a car fast the brakes should be the last thing to look at.
Get the car lighter, making it easier to slow its inertia, get the suspension sorted to stop weight transfer moving forward under braking and over loading the front tyres or under utilising the rear. Get the tyres sorted. What ultimately stops the car is the friction between the road and the tyre. A softer compound will have a higher friction level and stop the car quicker. Its why stopping distance will increase when it rains..
Big brakes are primarily about heat capacity. A larger disc can absorb more heat, keeping the pads at a more optimum temperature. Larger pads allow them to cool quicker. 4 pot calipers will give better pedal feel etc.
If you can get the friction co-efficient high enough (like with slicks) then the original brakes may not be able to provide enough pressure to lock the brakes. Thats really when a drastically different brake setup is needed.
Things like performance brake pads can help improve things slightly but we are talking more about the compounds providing that maximum effort before the brakes lock as traction is overcome.
Changing all the master cylinders, calipers and discs can alter how far you press your foot on the pedal etc, but its going to be a marginal gain whatever unless the heat capacity of the standard brake setup is overcome.

Hope this makes sense as its rather late to get my thoughts straight with all this.
Kev

very interesting that thanks.