VTS cutting out over 5000rpm.

[VeiRoN]

Again I need to make another thread,sorry,just one problem after another lol.
VTS keeps cutting out.
I made a video as it's quite unusual at least for me.

https://youtu.be/z05tRV2axQE

Doesn't even need to be driving I can just replicate the issue everytime from standstill when it's warm, doesn't seem to happen when it's cold at all.
When it does this I loose all power,it lasts for a few seconds and then goes back to normal.
Eml light in the video is because of the air pump removed.

This also comes with engine that revs itself and revs sticking when cold and juddering, don't know if they're related or not.
I have replaced the battery as that was at 30% and tried a spare crank sensor but no luck.
I'm a bit lost to be honest,I can just try new sensors as they're pretty old anyway,I have no error codes to help as well.
Thanks for the help.

[sri_130]

Originally Posted by VeiRoN

Again I need to make another thread,sorry,just one problem after another lol.
VTS keeps cutting out.
I made a video as it's quite unusual at least for me.

https://youtu.be/z05tRV2axQE

Doesn't even need to be driving I can just replicate the issue everytime from standstill when it's warm, doesn't seem to happen when it's cold at all.
When it does this I loose all power,it lasts for a few seconds and then goes back to normal.

This also comes with engine that revs itself and revs sticking when cold and juddering, don't know if they're related or not.
I have replaced the battery as that was at 30% and tried a spare crank sensor but no luck.
I'm a bit lost to be honest,I can just try new sensors as they're pretty old anyway,I have no error codes to help as well.
Thanks for the help.

You tried a new/different coil pack? That's where I'd start first. There's the old forum posts that were repeated day after day, that they can break down when warm. Maybe change or at least check the plugs as well. This a 16v?

The revving itself is probs all related. The sticking revs is either TPS related or MAP, I'd say. You can narrow this down by disconnecting the MAP sensor. The car will revert to TPS. If it runs better without the MAP, then get an new one. If it still runs like poo, then get a new TPS. They should shut injectors on overrun, so the revs should drop - your video seems to show the revs not dropping properly/quickly enough, unless you're holding the throttle there?

If it's still hunting around after that, when it starts to get a little warm, then I'd get a new lambda.

[VeiRoN]

Yes,I do have a brand new coilpack,also have brand new plugs at the same time,still does it,this is 16v yes.
Yes in the video the revs were sticking up really bad,usually it's not that bad,I'll try what you suggested about TPS and map, thank you!

[sri_130]

Originally Posted by VeiRoN

Yes,I do have a brand new coilpack,also have brand new plugs at the same time,still does it,this is 16v yes.
Yes in the video the revs were sticking up really bad,usually it's not that bad,I'll try what you suggested about TPS and map, thank you!

Let us know how you get on. It'll add to the post count on here!

[Chipwizards]

Does it still do it if your raise the revs gradually?

What had changed between it being OK and then being not OK?

[VeiRoN]

Originally Posted by Chipwizards

Does it still do it if your raise the revs gradually?

What had changed between it being OK and then being not OK?

No it seems not to do it if I rev slowly,well,it has never ran faultlessly after the conversion,if anything it used to do it only once or twice when driving now it's doing it a lot more,pretty much 80% of the time it goes past 5k and now it's doing it from cold as well,so warm or cold engine doesn't make much difference.

Originally Posted by sri_130

Let us know how you get on. It'll add to the post count on here!

Will do, I'll swap around some sensors and check the wiring again and whatever comes to mind,really need to fix this as it is undrivable.

Oh,also I haven't fitted the fuel return line yet,I have simply blocked the second inlet,probably that doesn't help the issue.

[Chipwizards]

Sounds like you need to finish the conversion first then. Make sure the fuel feed and return are the right way around as well, or you'll have very low fuel pressure, almost none in fact.

Have a very thorough check of the earths too. Bad earths cause all kinds of strange faults.

[VeiRoN]

Codes:



Synchronization of camshaft bank 1 deleted and came back as soon as the engine turned over.



In the picture the black sleeve with the green and red wires is the crankshaft sensor.
Around this there's is just a silver wire wrapping around the green and red wires (it's the one in the white sleeve,the silver wire might be difficult to see) this is not plugged in to anything,it just wraps around the wires.

I did not extend this silver wire when I have wired in the new plug for the crankshaft sensor (the old one was damaged),would this cause the signal improbable fault?

As said the silver wire doesn't plug in to anything, would this be some sort of heat maybe interference insulation?

[Chipwizards]

Has it got a black plug coil fitted to a grey plug loom/ECU?

There is no camshaft sensor for phase detection, it uses the current loading on the coil primary for cylinders 1 & 4 to determine which cylinder is on compression.

The grey plug determines that the coil has the appropriate internal circuitry to perform this task.

[Chipwizards]

The silver wire is the screen, it should be grounded at the ECU end.

The wiring going through the panel without a grommet is pretty grim; it really looks like you need to make a proper job of finishing the car off or it will always be fraught with problems.

Do it right, then you only need to do it once.

[VeiRoN]

Originally Posted by Chipwizards

Has it got a black plug coil fitted to a grey plug loom/ECU?

There is no camshaft sensor for phase detection, it uses the current loading on the coil primary for cylinders 1 & 4 to determine which cylinder is on compression.

The grey plug determines that the coil has the appropriate internal circuitry to perform this task.

Sorry,I took off the conduit for troubleshooting,I do have to finish up the rest of the wiring still which I'll do soon.

Yes it does have a black coilpack fitted to a grey plug,I bought a brand new one from Euros,HAAS brand,I still have the original with the grey plug.
Thank you for the help it's much appreciated.

Edit: tried the grey plug coilpack and put the vts fuel pump in and it's still cutting out,I can confirm that if I rev slowly it won't cut out and will rev to the limiter without issue.
Also when it cut out it was running on 3 cylinders briefly twice then fixed it but turning engine off and on.

[VeiRoN]

Well,this was how I found the Knock sensor, replaced it with a spare one I had,now it seems to not cut out anymore at idle but still does it when driving and also runs on three cylinders sometime after cutting out.

[Chipwizards]

It sounds to me like the fuel delivery isn't adequate, hence it will rev out on light load (eliminating crank trigger problems etc)

Under load you have increased fuel quantity demand and current demand for the coil and injectors, so that's what you need to be looking at.

You can watch what the battery voltage does in live data, or put a multi meter on the coil feed and see that it stays >12v.

For me though it's most likely that the fuel delivery is inadequate, because you get the same symptoms. Misfiring after the cutout is probably because it has suffered 'rail drain' and basically aerated what's in the fuel rail. You can put a pressure gauge on the rail directly. It needs to hold 3 bar at full load and high revs.

[VeiRoN]

Replacing the top lambda sensor seems to have decreased the number of times it cuts out,it still does it occasionally though.

I'll try replacing the complete fuel line from the rail to the filter as the one in right now is way too long and this bend won't help anything.

[VeiRoN]

Well still no joy,I did plug the return line in for the fuel and fitted the VTS fuel pump,the main line had a few kinks in it same as the old one so I thought I would replace it to rule that as the issue for the cutting out,I now have a proper fuel line going straight to the fuel filter,yes fuel filter is the correct way around,and there is no kink or even tight bends and it still cuts out no change.

I unplugged a few sensors just to to see if it would do it again and it still cut outs.
At this point I just think there's something wrong with the ECU,in the video below you can see how it just cuts out as soon as it hits around 7000 rpm like the original limiter only that in this case it just cuts all the power,I have no idea why it is doing that....

https://youtu.be/4T2ID4W8jLg

oil temp not working

[VeiRoN]

I know what the problem is,the crankshaft sensor plug/wire was loose and not making proper connection,will update after work.

So,I went to put the new coilpack back in as I had left the old one in for troubleshooting,I barely touched the crankshaft sensor to make sure the plug was clipped in which it was,but the car now wouldn't start anymore now,turns out that either the wiring or the plug was loose and wasn't making a proper connection,fixed it again and no cutting out since so that was causing the problem,hopefully it doesn't come back and even if it does I know what to look for now.

[sri_130]

Originally Posted by VeiRoN

I know what the problem is,the crankshaft sensor plug/wire was loose and not making proper connection,will update after work.

fingers crossed