Wicked Red - Turbo VTS - Sri's 'more boost' project - Page 8 - Saxperience

sri_130 · 20th May 2018, 19:53

£6 new thermostat, water temp issues seem to be resolved.
No boost cut either. So I turned it up a little more.
(now two clicks away from where it was when it was mapped).
Too scared to turn it up anymore! It's crazy fast enough and I'm sh*t scared of it with these brakes.
It is by far, the fastest car I've ever owned. Just madness really.
Waiting for brakes to arrive now.
Had to burn my boxers, felt embarrassed to have our lass wash them after the latest test drive.

Hopefully showcase the braking setup, by next weekend.

sri_130 · 10th July 2018, 21:54

It's been a while.

Discovered the thermostat was shagged, so swapped it out for a new one. Minor update really.

I also bought some brakes, because the car goes fast, but didn't want to stop.

A pair of Hispec Billet 4 calipers came up on an FB group, complete with discs and pads, so I took a punt on them.

They required a couple of dust seals, a new pin & some anti-rattle springs. I had some HEL lines made up, with a 90 degree banjo to suit.

Cleaned up the discs as best as I could and put them on.

I upgraded to a 23mm master cylinder. Bought a new one from ECP. The 406 1.8 also had the same and it didn't have ABS either. Bolt on upgrade for £45.

New harnesses. Didn't feel safe in the old ones. They were fake and from 2003. These are TRS Magnums, just branded differently.

Also fitted a steering rack gaiter, as it was missing.

I think I'm going to get my spare head rebuilt. The current one is the reused item from the previous engine. It carries a misfire on start-up and throws blue smoke out of the back, until it has cleared it's throat and warmed a little. I've always suspected valve stem seals, but it's getting worse and is a bit embarrassing when it has been stood for a while. That'll be winters project I reckon.

Also, there is petrol in the oil.
I suspect this is caused by the fact the front lambda is unplugged (had a wideband in there).
At low rpm and idle, the AFR is in the 11's and lower! I've put it off for a while, but I had better sort it now I've smelt the oil.
Wayne suggested wiring the wideband up to the ECU on its low voltage output and I will definitely do that in the future - I have to re-do all that wiring anyway, as it's poo.
For now, I've unplugged the second lambda, which was sleeved and extended the wiring so it reaches the new downpipe and connected it to the loom (front plug) as it should be.
I technically now, have no second lambda, but I'm hoping that it is the same as the Clio's (1*2's), which don't actually adjust anything anyway - just illuminate the EML to state the cat isn't effective. If anyone knows this to be true or false, then please confirm.

Will change the oil tomorrow and test it.

I've also booked in with a local company to corner weight it. Interested to see what it weighs and the split across the axles. I'll also know the bhp per tonne, so will give me something to talk about in the pub. Will update when it is done at the end of the month.

sri_130 · 17th July 2018, 09:42

An eventful few days has ended with some bad news.

First up, I changed the oil because the car was running too rich on idle, due to no lambda. I had some spare 10/40 and it was fine for a quick flush. Plan was to do it again in a few weeks.

No dramas there. The petrol smell had died down and I tested the lambda, with great success. It drives nice low down and no over fuelling on the overrun.

Only two issues to resolve now: Bleed the coolant properly and then swap the plugs out.

I had some BCR8ES plugs, so gapped them to 0.025 and installed.

Even this simple task is all learning for me, never done any of this stuff before!

Ran the car and it drove sweet, but still hits boost cut when giving it maximum beans. Plan was to go back to Wayne @ Chipwizards to have it all finalised after I'd made the improvements he suggested.
Barring a decent pressure plate I was ready to go back... but I still had to bleed the coolant, no big deal.

So I'd been trying to bleed it properly for about a week. Maybe 3 or 4 times, I can't recall. Each time doing it the way I thought was right (10 years of saxo ownership) but last night I was getting pretty annoyed. I had been bleeding it correctly all along. There was never any air in it.
I drove it to test, each time, but when I got back, there was air.

This time, I went mega professional and balls out with the header tank!

Bled it cold and then topped up and ran until the fan kicked in an out.

When the thermostat opened and closed a few times, the coolant became darker and traces of K-seal (copper residue) from previously using the head on the old engine, came through. You can compare the two photos above. The darker colour was a worry.

There was no air in the system at this point. I let it cool down, checked the level and went for a test drive.

All seemed well, I did a 3rd gear pull (clutch doesn't like it much):

https://youtu.be/yfkr5oXDEi0

And then after that, the funny business with the water temp surfaced again.

https://youtu.be/gF1DFzX6jMg

When I got back, I let it cool and opened the radiator bleed screw, to discover air in the coolant.

At this point, it is safe to say that I'm OK at bleeding these! But, it does mean the head/head-gasket is toast.

As I didn't even touch the head from the previous engine, I can only admit to the mistake of not a) having it rebuilt and b) having it skimmed and checked over.
You live and learn. I'm not a mechanic, so it is by definition that I would make assumptions that would turn out to be not in my best interest.

I've got the car booked in for a corner weight session on Sunday. It's approximately 6 miles from my house and if I stay off boost, it should be fine.

Will update with the weight info. But, that'll be the last ride of this year I'd imagine.

Sad times, but it'll be back.

Cheers to all those who've read/commented on the thread. And those who've helped me along the way. Not many left on here now!

martyno · 17th July 2018, 21:35

Keep the good spirits up and make sure it gets fixed over winter! (Please)

sri_130 · 22nd July 2018, 21:49

The car is parked away in the garage now, awaiting my next round of changes. Today, however, marked it's last run of the summer with a trip to the next town for a weight session.

I've been keen to find out how much mine weighs. Not because I plan to do much about it, but just curiosity.

I went to TAD motorsport in Selby: https://www.tadmotorsport.co.uk/

£25 for a corner weight, print out, camber check & advice. Great value in my opinion.

So, both my Dad and I, got weighed first. I'm carrying some holiday weight from last year and my Dad has no excuse.

The saxo had 1/4 tank and weighs 880KG without driver.

The setup sheet is really interesting:

The feedback (which is linked to the setup sheet results) shows that it is obviously lop sided, which is to be expected. Ideally a Left hand drive Saxo would be better setup. Damn those Europeans.

The camber on the drivers side is out, so I'll look at that. I use stock top mounts, so maybe I'll invest in some adjustable ones.
The rear, is the also running a different ride height on each side! However ,the camber is good - so the axle is ok.

I was quite suprised to see the rear right is near double the weight of the left.

Anyway, that will become my base reading. Lets see what happens next year!

PolishSaxoOwner · 23rd July 2018, 07:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by sri_130

Ideally a Left hand drive Saxo would be better setup. Damn those Europeans.

We also could get AC on our saxos, while RHD setup prevented you from getting it. (Wouldn't want it on a saxo anyways)
Not our fault you stubborn right hand drive brits

huliblus · 24th July 2018, 18:30

Not sure, but that datasheet can´t be right. I think there is some mistake and those right side digits should be front and left is rear? It just can´t have double the weight on right side.

MuZiZZle · 30th August 2018, 19:56

Oh Hello!

Chipwizards · 30th August 2018, 20:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by huliblus

Not sure, but that datasheet can´t be right. I think there is some mistake and those right side digits should be front and left is rear? It just can´t have double the weight on right side.

My guess would be right rear and left front pads are crossed over. (probably in the wrong sockets on the scales.)

huliblus · 6th September 2018, 16:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chipwizards

My guess would be right rear and left front pads are crossed over. (probably in the wrong sockets on the scales.)

That is most likely what has happened here. It´s easier here in Finland as LHD cars tend to have better weight distribution!

wyardclio · 17th December 2018, 04:01

good to see this car still lives!

sri_130 · 25th June 2019, 22:10

For those who still remain and are interested, some updates are due in the new few weeks.
Just waiting on parts to be delivered and items to be repaired.

- Head is getting new stem seals and a check over
- New Head gasket (Athena)
- Arp head stud kit

gti180craig · 27th June 2019, 07:23

Look fwd to seeing updates mate

Gabbastard · 1st July 2019, 17:12

Still interested, I enjoy reading project threads.

RichSaxoVTR · 25th July 2019, 18:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by sri_130

Looks great!

sri_130 · 20th September 2020, 20:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by sri_130

For those who still remain and are interested, some updates are due in the new few weeks.
Just waiting on parts to be delivered and items to be repaired.

- Head is getting new stem seals and a check over
- New Head gasket (Athena)
- Arp head stud kit

I wrote that a year a go (+ a couple of months). Finally started work on it.

Not that anyone is on here anymore. But just in case.....

----------

The head went for a test, new stem seals and a skim.
The block went for a skim as well. Although it didn't need one, it was nice to see that it was/is flat. And a flexi-hone as well.
I also had the crank reground. So ended up with new shells and mains. Went for ACL this time. Seen as though I am now a baller.

Local firm, Lockside engineering did the work. Good value and they also chucked in some free WellSeal (never used this, but my old man wanted it) and some piston ring pliers. Which was nice.

Last year I compression checked the engine and found that 1 cylinder was great, the others were less so. This was because when I got the block and pistons, one of rods (stock) was bent. I replaced the rings on that lone cylinder but left the rest. Whilst it made good power, it was in the back of my mind. So rang Wossner and got a full new set.

Decided to splash out on some decent assembly lube as well. In for a penny and all that.

After trying to get an Athena head gasket, ended up settling for the Cometic 5 layer one. Athena promised one (well the distributor) but it was weeks of bullshitting in the end. This will be more than enough I suspect. Everyone has said I didn't need it, but I'm paranoid. Cest la vie.

Took ages to get the torque values for the ARP head studs. Likely as they are not actually for this engine. ARP never made any. Looks to have been some collaboration between the usual and well known peugeot and citroen tuners who discovered that ones from a VW beetle actually fit. So they sell them, but remove any identity of the part codes from ARP. No probs with this, but if you don't get the paper instructions in the box as to what torque values they should be.... it's just guess work.
Pug1off let me know. Its 60 ft/lb if anyone else ever needs to know. In 3 staged increments of 20.

Loads more to do, but at least the motivation is back.

Also had the downpipe modified just recently. To include another lambda take-off. I was going to wire the wide band (on its narrow band output) to the ECU, but decided I'm not very good at wiring. So will just run two separately.
Also I need to figure out how to stabilise the turbo as it's hanging all off the manifold which is made of paper. So to start this process, I had a metal tab welded, so the downpipe can be fixed to the bell housing. Which is just a small element of the work ahead.

BOOST.

AdamH · 22nd September 2020, 10:03

Good to see an update dude in the best colour

mines been in bits for a year now after i decided to do a quick rebuild and change of turbo... its now 150 miles away from me after moving

one day...

MartinObviously · 23rd September 2020, 00:25

Ahh yes, been in a similar predicament with my 1.5D engine. NOBODY makes anything for that engine.

ARP stud and nut kit for a Honda B18C are a direct fit into the diesel block, would rather they had a bit more bite than 16mm into the thread in the block, but it's more than the diameter (M11) so should suffice.

How long are your studs?

sri_130 · 23rd September 2020, 09:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by MartinObviously

Ahh yes, been in a similar predicament with my 1.5D engine. NOBODY makes anything for that engine.

ARP stud and nut kit for a Honda B18C are a direct fit into the diesel block, would rather they had a bit more bite than 16mm into the thread in the block, but it's more than the diameter (M11) so should suffice.

How long are your studs?

The ACL journals say 1.5d on them

So I'm representin'.

er... not sure how long they are tbf. They're fitted now! When the nut (+washer) was wound on, it was about 1mm from top of the thread though, so just about enough.

I'm going to paint the block and cam covers. Will post a picture of this weeks activities.

saxokid100 · 2nd October 2020, 04:25

Nice to see saxo build on here stil going....