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Old 22nd December 2008, 23:16   #61
DavidKent
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Can any one tell me if you need to rub down the wheel with wet and dry after priming?
Yes, i would recommend it, sometimes primer leaves a rough surface
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Old 22nd December 2008, 23:35   #62
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Use varied grades to smooth from 400-2000
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Old 22nd December 2008, 23:38   #63
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Good guide just a quick wat of how i did mine...


Sand down with 240 dry , fill where needed then sand with 320 dry then 500 wet ( Using a gradient of paper wet usualy doubles the grain (less gradient) )

then i use filler primer and use guide coat powder so i know where i have sanded and i just use 320 wet and 500 wet to smooth and shape it.

then just the usual spray and sand inbetween coats.
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Old 11th January 2009, 11:16   #64
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Awsome thread mate! Gunna be mega helpful!
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Old 11th January 2009, 11:24   #65
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i think i would leave this to the proffesionals lol
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Old 11th January 2009, 11:36   #66
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very good guide there mate, you have done a good job
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Old 11th January 2009, 11:43   #67
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Not to hard to do just time consuming
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Old 11th January 2009, 17:57   #68
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Excellent guide mate,
They look so sweet.
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Old 11th January 2009, 22:10   #69
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so all the original primer doesnt need to come off,as ive took 1 down to the bare metal


great guide btw
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Old 11th January 2009, 22:44   #70
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It is a great guide, you just need the patience to do it.
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Old 22nd January 2009, 21:53   #71
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is it just the face you did or the hole inside of the alloy if you understand me... and rewlly consideriing doing this but is a lot of effort
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Old 23rd January 2009, 00:53   #72
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great guide
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Old 23rd January 2009, 18:52   #73
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do you have to mention to your insurance company if you do this, as i am considering spraying mine white ??
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Old 23rd January 2009, 23:41   #74
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Brilliant guide, i start tomorrow morn!
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Old 25th January 2009, 01:07   #75
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Just a quick addition - you need to sand the primer if you have allowed it to dry, so something like p600-p800 wet and dry would be suitable.

also you shouldn't really be leaving the colour any longer than 6 hours before clear coating.

not doing either of those will lead to paint peeling at the 1st opportunity

other than that its a good diy guide
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Old 24th February 2009, 20:40   #76
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do you apply the laquer in thin coats too? i found when painting plastic that it would look a little blotchey unless you put it on in thick coats.

But will it be the same with alloys?

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Old 1st April 2009, 23:30   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by furioAL View Post
Things you will need:
Rough estimate for materials needed: £50
Spare wheel, jack, bolts, filler (depending on how curbed your wheels are), 3/4 large cans of primer, 3/4 cans of chosen colour paint, 1/2 large cans of CLEAR laquer, a pack of 240 grade wet/dry paper, a pack of 1200 grit wet/dry paper and two large roles of masking tape...
Is that per wheel or would I be able to do 4 with that?
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Old 1st April 2009, 23:35   #78
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thats for all 4 mate, your looking at a can of primer and a can of colour per wheel really..you probs will have a little left in the 4th can like
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Old 1st April 2009, 23:48   #79
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Quote:
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thats for all 4 mate, your looking at a can of primer and a can of colour per wheel really..you probs will have a little left in the 4th can like
Cheers mate
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Old 3rd April 2009, 21:14   #80
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how do you get them so god damn shiny??!
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