Still isnt a guide on this and gets asked like daily!
This dosent ALWAYS sort your bad idling out, it can be many other things, however this is a common problem, and this is a guide on cleaning it and replacing one
Tools needed:
T20
T30
Flat screw driver
Carb cleaner spray
and whatever your induction is connected on with or air box.
15min job
Haynes spanner rating out of 5:
(1 spanner that is btw)
1) Ok, i dont think its in the same place on ALL engines so this only applys if your throttle area looks like this:
2) start with taking your induction kit or housing off
3) Here is the idle control valve (ms paint production presents
or in this guide for early HT leaded black tops.
http://www.saxperience.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=220032
4) Switch the car on, get your carb cleaner spray and spray it into the top half of this pic, give it some revs and keep spraying. If this fails and dosent sort your idling out then get ya T30 and undo the 3 torx keys, to take the body off
5) the air that goes through the idle control valve is the top half of this pic in the body:
6) Here is the hole from the inside, once your throttle body is off. Try cleaning this area up with some carb cleaner, you can buy this from halfords for like £5, spray a load in there
7) Discconnect all the sensors and the throttle cable so its free. To take the idle control valve off, its easier to take the throttle position sensor off first, T20 on the 2 bolts there. then then idle control valve, again T20.
Throttle position sensor is the one to the left of the pic, and the ICV is the one set back to the right
8) Heres the badboy idle control valve, give it a good clean and the area it came from
Then Re-asemble in the reverse steps
Now take ya car for a good drive, over 8 miles.
If its still doing it, then it could be many other problems, mainly sensors. Maybe worth getting a diognostics done usually £20ish by a local garage or sumtimes for free, if they dont find any fualt.
Map sensor could be a problem, as it thinks there more or less air going in than there actually is, so the idle control valve changes in relation to the MAP sensors reading.
To narro this down, find where your MAP sensor is, now switch your car on, wait for it to idle high if it isnt already, now dissconnect the multi plug NOT the whole sensor from the unit, if the idle comes back down to about 800rpmish then it could be the MAP sensor, It will idle very rough, but around the 800rpm range. It will also over fuel without this sensor, so dont leave it off.
If your idle only happens when the car is cold, and comes back down when it warms up, then it could be the coolant temp sensor, giving a false readin, meaning its sending too much fuel in the engine, and needing more air to bang, so the idle control valve opens, ALL knock on chain reaction effect from one sensor!
Theres many threads on this so worth having a
Can be many other things though!
Hope this guide helps some poeple. Any improvments welcome, so just tell me
maybe add to the FAQ's?
MORE PICS CAN BE FOUND HERE:
http://s244.photobucket.com/albums/g...saxp%20guides/
How To - Clean / Change idle air control valve (guide) and Basic bad idle guide
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Linear Mode
