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Old 14th November 2010, 21:40   #41
mark1311
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3 i ment are, top and bottom and the one thts in the fork on the car that the lower mount bolts into
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Old 22nd November 2010, 12:45   #42
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If it was purely a track car:
- Pugsport front shocks (tarmac)
- Maybe some coilover around the 250lb mark
- Bilstein Group N Rears
- 24mm Rear ARB
- 23mm Torsion Bars
- Stiff bushes (polyrace?/solid)
- Group N upper engine mounts with solid lower gearbox mount
- Some nice tyres for on track
- ATB/Well setup plate diff

thats just about the exact set up i have but std vts bars
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Old 22nd November 2010, 21:30   #43
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if its purely track car/race car then you need to be looking at 400lb+ spring rates
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Old 23rd November 2010, 10:38   #44
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depends what tyres you have...
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Old 23rd November 2010, 11:03   #45
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Yer I am going to 300 lb spring and will be mainly track and maybe bit weekend fun,

Hmm with a spring front end and standard torsion bars, I guess be abit unbalance?

Or is that how you like it to handle.
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Old 23rd November 2010, 11:12   #46
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its not going to be unbalanced as such (i would consider a nervous oversteering car to be unbalanced) but would understeer far far more than a standard car.
The rear torsion bar is the rear spring, so this needs to be matched to keep the car lively. Personally I like a front wheel drive car to be set up to slightly oversteer then use power understeer to control it..
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Old 24th November 2010, 15:50   #47
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Im stuck on something to do with when i get a new refurbed beam. The front springs ive got are pretty low, front bumpers about inch and half front the floor but there not lowering springs (what i got told from toad) but his car was low at the rear also but do i lower the rear to match or do i go for about 40mm lowered at the rear?

Thing is if i lower it the same as front (say 60mm for instance) will the dampers have enough movement to do there job or if it was 30-40mm would the car be balanced enough with front and rear being such different hieghts?
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Old 24th November 2010, 17:58   #48
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Youll just have to play about with it mate, depends on where the weight is in the car, arbs, tbar lbs and spring lbs, tyre pressures etc loads of different things to play around with. A higher rear end on a saxo would be in favour for oversteer but then the weight should be at the back..as there is no weight at the back on a saxo in relation to the front then the rear could be about level to the front to compensate..but then also the other factors i mentioned too. Youll have to find out for yourself! There isnt a set guideline to optimum heights.
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Old 27th December 2010, 13:32   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark1311 View Post
my set up will be somthing alone the lines of...

-grpN engine mounts
-grN gearbox mounts (all 3)
-polyrace wishbone bushes
-powerflex arb bushes
-polyrace rear beam bush
-rebuilt rear axle
-21mm torsion bars
-24mm arb
-grN billies
-gmc springs
-new top mounts

any advice on my set up? anything i have forgotten ect?
Go for 23mm bars & a 2.25" id coilover conversion rather than GMC springs

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Originally Posted by dannygti View Post
if its purely track car/race car then you need to be looking at 400lb+ spring rates
I use 400lb front springs with my slicks! (350lb with ACB10's)
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Old 1st January 2011, 11:28   #50
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Originally Posted by Dave_P View Post
Go for 23mm bars & a 2.25" id coilover conversion rather than GMC springs



I use 400lb front springs with my slicks! (350lb with ACB10's)
properly will be the Faulkner 155lb springs now...

not really on a budget as such, but i would like to spend 500/600, for shocks front and rear, already have the torsion bars, (brand new) so could always swop to 23mm bars, any advice/links to items would be great
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Old 13th January 2011, 23:13   #51
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And everybody's obsession with camber. Thinking more camber is better. Well, the stiffer the car is, and the less it rolls the less camber you will need to give optimum results. Having too much camber is the same as having too little camber.
i agree i run stock camber whith with group a bilsteins full rose jointed and
very stiiff and dont fell the nead off it...

IT DO NOT ROLLS..

Sorry for bad english...
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Old 17th January 2011, 08:57   #52
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Bilstein B8's
Faulkner 155ib (-40mm)
Powerflex rear beam mounts
OMP upper and lower strut brace


More than enough for me and nice and cheap!
If you want a better setup you would need over 200bhp i think to take advantage of it. So may as well just buy a better car...
You can stop bodyroll with polycarb windows, CF roofs, Bucket seats, weight distribution etc not neccessarily just buy getting a stiffer setup

Last edited by hard_corejoeboy; 17th January 2011 at 08:59.
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Old 17th January 2011, 10:21   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hard_corejoeboy View Post
Bilstein B8's
Faulkner 155ib (-40mm)
Powerflex rear beam mounts
OMP upper and lower strut brace


More than enough for me and nice and cheap!
If you want a better setup you would need over 200bhp i think to take advantage of it. So may as well just buy a better car...
You can stop bodyroll with polycarb windows, CF roofs, Bucket seats, weight distribution etc not neccessarily just buy getting a stiffer setup
Thanks for the advice ive put polycarbs next on the list to get rid of body roll...

I dont see how the bhp of a car governs what suspension setup you have. They dont have GrpN Tarmac = 184bhp-206bhp and Gravel for 172bhp-184bhp Raceland 55bhp-91bhp

Il inform the saxmax boys that they only need B8s aswell with 155lb springs, upper n lower strut braces (OMP), powerflex (poverty) rear beam mounts and polycarbs to reduce body roll. In fact they have less power than a VTS so Standards should do them fine right?

In all seriousness you are an idiot and shouldnt be in this section.
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Old 17th January 2011, 18:33   #54
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Well seeing as the windows are higher up on the car the less weight up top there will be the less roll. Get a spring with a bit of weight on the end of it and it will flap and boing about everywhere. Same principle.

I couldn't care less if you don't think i should be in this section. I think you are an oxygen thief but i haven't murdered you yet.

Big deal if i haven't got a motorsport degree and am not a mechanic. Could quite easily take the piss out of you if you tried to assemble a GPMG or an SA80 rifle cos you haven't done it before. Yet you think its fine to mock me for my lack of technical knowledge of a Citroen Saxo LMAO

And whats the point in fitting £2000 plus suspension setups to a Citroen Saxo? They really aren't going to make a bugger all world of difference unless you have the driving skills to actually warrant having them.

I haven't had another hot hatch be able to out corner me as of yet. So either my setup is good or im an immensely great driver. (im good but not that good)

Last edited by hard_corejoeboy; 17th January 2011 at 18:37.
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Old 17th January 2011, 18:53   #55
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am i the only one still using standard rear bars?
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Old 17th January 2011, 18:58   #56
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am i the only one still using standard rear bars?
must be one of the onlu few, whats your reason for using standard bars?
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Old 17th January 2011, 19:00   #57
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am i the only one still using standard rear bars?
T-bars? I am obviously lol
Because i can't afford non 'poverty' thicker one's
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Old 17th January 2011, 19:07   #58
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am i the only one still using standard rear bars?
No need for bigger bars thats why I run standards on the rally car. Totally fine. Only a bit bouncy over the rough but growing bigger balls cures that
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Old 17th January 2011, 19:11   #59
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I felt 21mm rear bars certainly helped the feel of the car - it's not as bit a change as you'd maybe imagine
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Old 17th January 2011, 19:17   #60
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cheers for the back up colin. i neven been in a car with them uprated. not quite sure what to expect.

reason why i have never experimented in them... i guess there have been what i think to be more important or should i say more interesting things to spend my money on 1st

anyone at cadwell this friday? i am
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