Battery Relocation - Page 2 - Saxperience

Jungle · 12th August 2011, 14:20

are they not all joined together just before the battery connector anyway? pretty sure mine were. Im not saying mash them all together, if they are seperate then join them all properly. The point i was getting at was that there is no need to put a fusebox or a fused distribution block in at that point!

Your picture is hilarious...

axsaxoman · 12th August 2011, 14:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jungle

I dont get where all the differnt fuseboxs and fuses are coming from. all your doing is extending the live cable to the battery.

All you need to do is take the battery connector off, and extend it from there to the battery, then put 1 fuse on the cable before you connect to the battery to protect the cable running through the car. Simples. Earth it to whatever is close.

you cannot put a fuse in main battery cable ,unless you have found some 500amp fuses .--the starter can spike to that amperage on a cold day .
it should go direct to starter and then connect to other parts of car from that same terminal
you cannot fit too large a size of cable as the current will drop the longer the cable .
the more strands in the cable the better the power transfer .
25sqmm is absolute minium bigger + lots of strands will be better.

Gareth_R · 12th August 2011, 14:35

i thought it as quite good lol

the fuseboxes are already there, you're not adding anything in. and the distribution blocks i've seen arent fused. Its just a physical means of joining everything together reliably.

"are they not all joined together just before the battery connector anyway?"

Not that i've seen, all separate

Gareth_R · 12th August 2011, 14:37

theres no issue with going to the fuse box then off to the starter - i've seen a number of cars do it, perfectly reliable

Jungle · 12th August 2011, 14:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by axsaxoman

you cannot put a fuse in main battery cable ,unless you have found some 500amp fuses .--the starter can spike to that amperage on a cold day .
it should go direct to starter and then connect to other parts of car from that same terminal
you cannot fit too large a size of cable as the current will drop the longer the cable .
the more strands in the cable the better the power transfer .
25sqmm is absolute minium bigger + lots of strands will be better.

Yes you can. I would rather risk my main fuse blowing (never happened yet) than exploding my battery or starting a fire because the sheathing has rubbed through where the cable passes through the shell.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gareth_R

i thought it as quite good lol

the fuseboxes are already there, you're not adding anything in. and the distribution blocks i've seen arent fused. Its just a physical means of joining everything together reliably.

"are they not all joined together just before the battery connector anyway?"

Not that i've seen, all separate

the ones i have seen people have used distrubution blocks used for audi oequipment, these are fused so thats what i was thinking, obviously a non fused dist. block is a perfectly fine way to do it.

Mine was all joined to one so like i said i just chopped the connecter off and joined the two cables together.

Gareth_R · 12th August 2011, 14:51

fair enough, in that situation it would have been pretty simple

AlexB^p · 12th August 2011, 16:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jungle

are they not all joined together just before the battery connector anyway? pretty sure mine were. Im not saying mash them all together, if they are seperate then join them all properly. The point i was getting at was that there is no need to put a fusebox or a fused distribution block in at that point!

Your picture is hilarious...

I never said anything about a fused distribution block or extra fuses

The fuseboxes i mentioned are the standard items in the bay

Your wire will come in and split into 3 the distribution block is simply to split the wires

AndySAXO^p · 12th August 2011, 17:53

Hmm just run the cable from the battery to starter motor then run for the starter motor terminal to the two fuse box in the engine bay like they do standard. Also used a kill switch so if you a safe storage place you can kill it so it can't drain the battery.

If installed correctly, and you run the cable correctly and fit it down well, it shouldn't rub on anything.

Fulch · 12th August 2011, 18:55

I got given this list:

Cable you require: http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.u...1/category/124

Fuse holder: http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.u...04/category/62

Fuses, buy two 100amp fuses and use both together to give 200amp blow limit!: http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/291

Relevant clamps for your battery: http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product_list/26

Relevant connectors to join to chassis etc! http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.u...55/category/32

Only thing is I dont know which rate of wire to get

kyle4256 · 12th August 2011, 21:23

so what size of cable is required from engine bay to boot??

wolf_gsxr · 12th August 2011, 21:35

i might be wrong but running 2 100 amp fuses wudnt that be like running one longer 100amp fuse?

MR_N · 12th August 2011, 22:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by J222JRA

Seriously get a jointing box like i have and re-make all the cables so it looks neat. Dont make a shite job Sam your car is quite tidy.....excluding the bumper scuff of course........*chuckles

Ill have to do a proper job James. Guess you fed the wire from the battery to the box, then the other 3 for fuse box's and starters from that?
Yes i will remake all the wires as well. Don't fancy using the 13year old originals if i have the chance to replace them.

What jointing box did you use?

Oh and that scuff... im off to the body shop tomorrow lol

Ross^p · 13th August 2011, 02:07

Simples :

Earth negative terminal to shell as close to battery as possible run 25sqmm cable to starter (unfused - use grommets and cowling in any sensitive areas). Run cable from starter to fuse boxes - 16 gauge is plenty for everything after the starter.

If you route the cable correctly you won't ever have it rub. If you're worried about it rubbing, you're not routing it well enough

axsaxoman · 13th August 2011, 15:56

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by axsaxoman
you cannot put a fuse in main battery cable ,unless you have found some 500amp fuses .--the starter can spike to that amperage on a cold day .
it should go direct to starter and then connect to other parts of car from that same terminal
you cannot fit too large a size of cable as the current will drop the longer the cable .
the more strands in the cable the better the power transfer .
25sqmm is absolute minium bigger + lots of strands will be better.

Yes you can. I would rather risk my main fuse blowing (never happened yet) than exploding my battery or starting a fire because the sheathing has rubbed through where the cable passes through the shell.

I think you better check the actual power routing ,as no car has a fuse in the mmain starter power supply cable,they don,t make fuses big enough .
the main (maxi) fuses you are referring to do not stop power going to the starter motor --they are for all the other systems .

jsdvtr · 20th February 2013, 16:35

Is there any earths needed in the engine bay? Like the gearbox.

MR_N · 20th March 2013, 09:08

Yeah, Gearbox to chassis.

jsdvtr · 2nd April 2013, 11:33

Giot another question -

When using more say 2 ring terminals to one live say on the starter or fusebox, is it ok to use washers to space the ring terminals as they dont sit flat against each other due to the wiring. Or what have other people used?