Top strut bearing

[Dalgreen]

Any ideas how much for a front top strut bearing fitted to my saxo vtr?

[Choppa7]

Parts themselves are about a tenner a side.

A garage will probably charge an hours labour at a guess, free if you have basictools though?

[Dalgreen]

I can do a few things do I need spring compress tools

[Choppa7]

Yes.

Also 18mm Swan neck ring spanner, ball joint splitter and Torx bits and general socket set. Axle stands and jack are also needed.

Actually, 32mm (I think) socket for the driveshaft nut will be needed too.

[Dalgreen]

Cheers pal

[Choppa7]

If you're going to go for it, crack the strut top nut (18mm) loose before you jack the car up. The weight of the car will help keep the shock from spinning.

Jack and remove wheel.
Remove brake caliper, secure somewhere with cable ties, dont let it hang on the brake line.
Undo and remove the Track rod end from the strut.
Remove the droplink between the ARB and the strut.
Undo and remove the driveshaft nut.
Loosen the 3 13mm nuts holding the strut in place but dont remove.
Swing the strut away from the body to allow the drive shaft to slide out of the hub. (Dont pull the drive shaft out of the gearbox or you'll get g/box oil everywhere)
Remove the 3 13mm nuts whilst supporting the weight of the strut and once they're off, you can lift the strut out.

Compress springs to hold tension
Loosen the 18mm nut you cracked off before at the top of the strut (You may need to stop the shock from spinning by puttiung the torx bit into the top of the shock)
Once the nut is off, pay attention to washer locations and remove the strut top. The bearing will knock out and new one locate in its place.

Put it all back together again

[Dalgreen]

Thanks I'll give it a whirl.

[tonytiger]

Just to add to the summary that Choppa7 gave, you only need to remove the droplink at one end if you're not replacing it - BUT it's often not possible to disconnect them without cutting them off in my experience.
Similarly you may or may not have trouble with the track rod end. Use lots of plusgas before you start and try cleaning up threads before undoing any nuts.

Also, I find it easier to loosen the hub nut before removing the brakes if you have somebody who can press the brakes while you do it. You'll probably need a breaker bar to loosen it (note you'll probably also need a chisel/punch on it first as it's staked to the driveshaft).

If you've got the tools and patience it's straight forward enough - but can be very frustrating if everything's seized - just be prepared that it might take more time (and parts) than you expect!

[Dalgreen]

Thanks guys.