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Old 25th August 2012, 23:01   #21
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you can get self sealing take offs now, i dont think they are cheap but im sure they come in a range of sizes for everything. i was going to run the return to my header and the feed from one of the rad hoses. there is big debate to what is the right and wrong way, if at all. but im still yet to hear someone on here say, my turbo is dead because the water feed and return were in the wrong place and not working.
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Old 25th August 2012, 23:03   #22
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i have never had a good look at any standard turbo car to see where they run the feed and returns from, would be a good idea if any has a scooby, evo, pulsar etc just to compare. i will see where my mates cav turbo gets it from and dumps it off.
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Old 1st September 2012, 23:15   #23
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3SGTE Cooling system:

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Old 1st September 2012, 23:20   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e8_pqck View Post
3SGTE Cooling system:

And a 3SGTE that killed its botterm end (just toke this picture)



Add on here the sump lol


Last edited by Cam; 2nd September 2012 at 01:40.
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Old 2nd September 2012, 08:32   #25
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Thinking of using this for the water and return-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-AN10-Ny...item27bdf7ec6d

But its slightly too big ID for a 13mm connection but AN8 is to small. Would 1.3mm be a big difference or would it be ok with a jubilee clip?
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Old 3rd September 2012, 15:15   #26
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Logically thinking, I would remove the bottom sensor (brown) in the thermostat. If you don't have AC that is, otherwise is will be in use.

Feed the turbo from there and return after the thermostat. It should run coolant through because the thermostat itself work as a restrictor since it is not a butterfly valve but a push type.

This is all theoretically of course.
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Old 4th September 2012, 17:55   #27
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Found this on colins thread on 106oc. Think i may run it like this but use 13mm t pieces and inbetween the 2 t's for feed and return use a 13mm hose as smaller ID than what the actual hose should be so that will act as like a restister pushing through to the feed if im right?

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Old 11th September 2012, 14:40   #28
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According to Garrett:

Water-cooled center housings
were introduced to minimize the
effects of heat soak-back. These
use unpressurized coolant from the
engine to act as a heat sink after
engine shutdown, preventing the oil
from coking. The water lines utilize
a thermal siphon effect to reduce the
peak heat soak-back temperature after
key-off. The layout of the pipes should
eliminate peaks and troughs with the
(cool) water inlet on the low side. To
help this along, it is advantageous to
tilt the turbocharger approximately 25°
about the axis of shaft rotation.
Garrett® offers many turbos that are
water-cooled for enhanced durability.

From: http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...Catalog_V4.pdf
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Old 11th September 2012, 14:44   #29
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So it is not necessary to pressurize the water feed to the turbo.

I wonder how much the turbo would be affected if you did "force" cool it, would it be negative as it would take longer to get up to temp or is it better because you can keep it cooler?

Any thoughts?
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Old 12th September 2012, 09:26   #30
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Your taking it out of context.. The cooling system is not pressurised at all.. It's pumped round the system but is not pumped at pressure

I read lots into it for the previous turbo I bought, the main reason for the water jacket is to radiate the head out of the centre cartridge and shaft after your stop running the car.. As the oil will no longer be moving and cooling the turbo.. So initially the temp in the turbo raises

So the water helps to keep it cool and stop the oil I the turbo burning onto the shaft and causing.. As in the link "coking". Which can
Cause debris and wear at an accelerated rate
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Old 12th September 2012, 14:30   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackie_2k5 View Post
Your taking it out of context.. The cooling system is not pressurised at all.. It's pumped round the system but is not pumped at pressure

I read lots into it for the previous turbo I bought, the main reason for the water jacket is to radiate the head out of the centre cartridge and shaft after your stop running the car.. As the oil will no longer be moving and cooling the turbo.. So initially the temp in the turbo raises

So the water helps to keep it cool and stop the oil I the turbo burning onto the shaft and causing.. As in the link "coking". Which can
Cause debris and wear at an accelerated rate

Ok I get it, so in fact this is not correct?

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Originally Posted by boz View Post
my turbo is dead because the water feed and return were in the wrong place and not working.
It doesn't matter in what place the lines are connected as long as it is possible to circulate coolant, right?
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Old 12th September 2012, 14:38   #32
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some water will syphon naturally because of temperature differences from the water in the turbo water pipes to the rest of the cooling system. However, it's better for the turbo to receive "forced", cool(er) water of course.

I haven't read Boz's example above, but it's possible the water wasn't circulating at all due to a plumbing issue.

This year I am running a separate cooling circuit for the turbo on it's own. Own pump, flow meter, and rad. No arguments from the turbo when you stuff it's face with cool water (even after ignition off)
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Old 25th September 2012, 20:02   #33
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If runing no heater matrix would it be ok to feed the turbo from the "redundant" matrix hoses ??
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Old 25th September 2012, 20:16   #34
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Most run from the matrix hoses as its easiest place to rob from lol
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Old 25th September 2012, 20:40   #35
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So thats a yes then lol??

The way i see it the turbo would just replace the matrix.... But would it need a restrictor.. How much restriction is there within the turbo?

I currently have a restrictor in the matrix bypass to stop the coolant taki the easy route and bypassing the raidiator
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Old 25th September 2012, 20:52   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackie_2k5 View Post
I read lots into it for the previous turbo I bought, the main reason for the water jacket is to radiate the head out of the centre cartridge and shaft after your stop running the car.. As the oil will no longer be moving and cooling the turbo.. So initially the temp in the turbo raises

So the water helps to keep it cool and stop the oil I the turbo burning onto the shaft and causing.. As in the link "coking". Which can
Cause debris and wear at an accelerated rate
So why are you restricting the flow to the heater matrix - all you need is water in the pipes circulating.

It also makes sense that the manufacturers use water straight from the engine as per the 3SGTE and the DOHC diagram.

I've installed a seperate feed from the thermostat housing to the turbo, then used a Y connector to plumb back into the feed from thermostat to heater matrix.

It might be hot water from the engine going to the turbo but it seems that is the way to do it.

This is exactly how colin has done it but used a tee - my preference is to use a Y.

Last edited by e8_pqck; 25th September 2012 at 20:54.
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Old 25th September 2012, 20:53   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cam View Post
And a 3SGTE that killed its botterm end (just toke this picture)



Add on here the sump lol

irrelevant.
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Old 25th September 2012, 21:35   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e8_pqck View Post
So why are you restricting the flow to the heater matrix - all you need is water in the pipes circulating.

It also makes sense that the manufacturers use water straight from the engine as per the 3SGTE and the DOHC diagram.

I've installed a seperate feed from the thermostat housing to the turbo, then used a Y connector to plumb back into the feed from thermostat to heater matrix.

It might be hot water from the engine going to the turbo but it seems that is the way to do it.

This is exactly how colin has done it but used a tee - my preference is to use a Y.
#

not sure i fully understand what your asking mate

but im not restricting the flow to the matrix

the restrictor is fitted solely to persuade the water to pass through the turbo..rather then taking the route of least resistance..ie into the matrix without passing through turbo
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Old 25th September 2012, 22:41   #39
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Quote:
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some This year I am running a separate cooling circuit for the turbo on it's own. Own pump, flow meter, and rad. No arguments from the turbo when you stuff it's face with cool water (even after ignition off)
ive been thinking of doing this for years as thats how the AMG mercs run there superchargers
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Old 8th October 2012, 11:14   #40
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Going to be ordering the parts needed for the feed and return.

Should I get brass or plastic t pieces?

Going to be using this hose-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-Metre-Si...#ht_1105wt_862
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