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Old 15th May 2013, 16:21   #1
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Default HOW TO make your own Electrolysis cleaning kit

Right then I think this sections the most appropriate place for a guide.

If you have any old rusty bits or even bits and bobs you'd like to clean up and paint you can use electrolysis to clean up parts. It is very effective and requires very little physical effort. IT IS ALSO CHEAP.

What you need

A bucket or container (5 litre tub will do for most objects)
A 12v battery or battery charger
2 anodes (2 pieces of conductive metal)
Tap water (hot water works best)
Copper wire
Length of copper tube (or other conductive metal)
Electrolyte chemical

Essentially you'll be looking to setup the above equipment like so



Step 1

Hang your anodes over the side of your container using the copper wire. Try not to submerge the copper wire if you can help it. Ensure that they are linked together. On mine I attached a crocodile clip at the end of the wire for an effective link with the power supply.

Provided that you keep the anodes clean they can be used over and over

Step 2 - mixing the electrolyte solution.

There's 2 different chemicals that you can use which are widely available and cheap.

Sodium carbonate - can be used on all metals and is kindest for any aluminium or precious metals. Is very good for removing rusts, paint, oil and general road grease. If you're using a 5 litre tub then just 25grams of sodium carbonate is sufficient combined with 4.5 litres of warm water.

Ammonium chloride - only to be used with steel and cast iron, In comparison it is quite savage and is much quicker and more aggressive than sodium carbonate. It isn't as good for degreasing. When mixing 35grams per 4.5 litres of warm water.

Several things to remember;

Wear goggles just incase
Stir thoroughly and always apply the chemical into the water rather than the other way round (not nice in eyes if the water splashes into your eyes if you've not worn goggles.
The solution will get hotter when the current is put through it

Personal experience - go with the sodium carbonate unless the item is very heavily corroded



Step 3 - connecting to your power supply

Positive terminal/lead should connect to your anodes

Negative terminal/lead connects to your metal rod which should span the diameter of your tub. Use copper wire to hang the object that you need cleaning off the rod



Obviously don't let your rod physically touch any of the copper wire linking with your anodes else it'll spark or blow a fuse in the charger.


And that's about it. Remember to wear gloves if you can, marigolds are fine.
Always setup in a well ventilated area

When the lower supply is turned on there will start to be bubbles rising off the item and you'll start to see deposits seperating off the item being cleaned

The process generally doesn't take long, half an hour may suffice for a mildly dirty item. You can hang several items at once into the tub/bucket.

Rinse off then under a tap, I've bought some small wire brushes to aid in the process. If all the rust and deposits have gone you can then paint the item if you wish or even zinc plate it (that's another how to guide) the freshly cleaned item should be dried thoroughly and ideally primered or even sprayed with wd40 to prevent 'flash rusting' appearing.

You can reuse the electrolyte solution if you wish, just filter out the deposits which will eventually sink to the bottom.

You can use a small sieve and use that to clean multiple nuts and bolts. Just connect the negative supply to the sieve rather than use the rod & copper wire

You can obtain all of the parts here for well under £10. onviously more if you dont yet have a battery or battery charger.

And a couple more pics of the process & some of my results so far

Large amounts of rusty/greasy deposits form on the surface



Here's how well some bolts clean up. The bolt I the middle is an old torsion bar bolt which looked exactly the same as the one on the left before cleaning. You can even see the numbers stamped in the head again


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Old 15th May 2013, 16:46   #2
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I cannot stress enough how dangerous this is, if not carried out in a well ventilated area!

The gasses produced are highly toxic.
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Old 15th May 2013, 17:01   #3
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I cannot stress enough how dangerous this is, if not carried out in a well ventilated area!

The gasses produced are highly toxic.
Cheers mate. Ill put a few bits in larger bold red writing shortly just to clarify various bits. I've been doing mine out in the garden away from the house & garage and leaving it periodically before turning off and checking on cleaning progress.
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Old 15th May 2013, 17:03   #4
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Haha no worries pal.

I teach and do practicals on electrolysis at school.

So just wanted to back it up before someone does it in a small room with no vents and dies...
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Old 15th May 2013, 17:36   #5
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Isn't sodium chloride just a salt?

Also how high am i going to get from the fumes?
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Old 15th May 2013, 17:59   #6
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Sodium Chloride is.

I have to do this in a fume cupboard at school.

It's potentially fatal if enough is taken in.
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Old 15th May 2013, 18:04   #7
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Sodium Chloride is, sodium carbonate isn't...

I have to do this in a fume cupboard at school.

It's potentially fatal if enough is taken in.
Ahh got the aluminium chloride and sodium carbonate mixed up. I will stick to my paint thinners to get high then.
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Old 15th May 2013, 18:08   #8
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Indeed! They are actually both salts, but not table salt

Yeah, defo safer. The sodium stuff isn't too bad. It's the ammonium stuff that's the killer.

Obviously produces ammonia gas. Ain't nobody got time fo' dat.
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Old 15th May 2013, 19:49   #9
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The sodium is definitely better to use anyway to be fair. Tried the ammonium once and it literally went wild, worked bloody quickly but the sodium is much better all round and gentler on the parts

You can buy the sodium carbonate very cheaply off ebay
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Old 15th May 2013, 22:55   #10
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Excellent guide mate - cheers for posting! If only I had more time on my hands!

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It's potentially fatal if enough is taken in.
Maybe so, but look at the SHINY SHINY haha
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Old 15th May 2013, 23:16   #11
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well i know what i will be doing at the weekend mate thank you very much..
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Old 16th May 2013, 09:41   #12
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well i know what i will be doing at the weekend mate thank you very much..
Good man :-)

Ebay Item number for the sodium carbonate which I bought is 140503384210

The rest of the stuff is readily available just about anywhere. 10 metres of 0.8 copper wire is £2.25 on Gatorosplating.co.uk for some reason on eBay the lengths are shorter
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Old 16th May 2013, 09:49   #13
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Think bedfords talking about buying ammonia and gassing himself.. FAIL
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Old 16th May 2013, 10:23   #14
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Think bedfords talking about buying ammonia and gassing himself.. FAIL
We can only hope.
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Old 16th May 2013, 12:09   #15
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well i know what i will be doing at the weekend mate thank you very much..
Good guide willsy,Bedford126 just be careful which nuts you place in the bucket lol.
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Old 16th May 2013, 12:35   #16
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Good guide willsy,Bedford126 just be careful which nuts you place in the bucket lol.
I'd pay good money to see Marcus boil his testicles in sodium carbonate.
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Old 16th May 2013, 15:40   #17
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How did you read my mind!!!!!!!!

So it won't clean my nuts then?????

Also will doing this remove aluminium oxide from aluminium parts?

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We can only hope.
Fuck you Ross.

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I'd pay good money to see Marcus boil his testicles in sodium carbonate.
How much exactly?
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Old 16th May 2013, 16:02   #18
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How much exactly?
Pounds. Literally POUNDS.
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Old 16th May 2013, 16:05   #19
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Pounds. Literally POUNDS.
MMMM this is sounding interesting.
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Old 16th May 2013, 16:56   #20
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Electrolysis should remove the oxide from the aluminium.
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