really need help... everythings corroded - Saxperience

mrrwill · 9th January 2015, 19:22

Alright folks.

Ive just been attempting to fit new rear disks and pads (03 saxo vtr) and everything was going well.... until i got to the two bolts which hold the caliper on (19mm maybe?) And theyre corroded to the point where theres nothing for a spanner or socket to grip.. how are you supposed to undo a corroded / completely rounded off bolt?
Also, whilst i was messing i tried to turn the bleed nipple to see if that was seized, and as soon as i applied any pressure that sheared off completely.. now its just a bolt flush with the caliper. Everything is corroded.

What do i do??

Also.. i took the front wheel off to find the rubber boot on the cv joint to ha e come off (but ill post a separate thread later about that so this one stays to the point..)

Cheers

VTSBRO · 9th January 2015, 20:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrrwill

Alright folks.

Ive just been attempting to fit new rear disks and pads (03 saxo vtr) and everything was going well.... until i got to the two bolts which hold the caliper on (19mm maybe?) And theyre corroded to the point where theres nothing for a spanner or socket to grip.. how are you supposed to undo a corroded / completely rounded off bolt?
Also, whilst i was messing i tried to turn the bleed nipple to see if that was seized, and as soon as i applied any pressure that sheared off completely.. now its just a bolt flush with the caliper. Everything is corroded.

What do i do??

Also.. i took the front wheel off to find the rubber boot on the cv joint to ha e come off (but ill post a separate thread later about that so this one stays to the point..)

Cheers

And I thought I was having a bad week!

Ok, options are:
1) Remove complete strut and get both caliper bolts and bleed screw drilled out and threads re-tapped by a local engineering firm. Then put back together with new bolts and bleed screw.
2) Get hold of another complete strut with a caliper and just swap them over.
3) Drill out and re-tap in place - not for the faint hearted, but can be done.

mrrwill · 9th January 2015, 20:56

Hmmm... i might speak to me dad, being an engineer he should be able to help.. i can believe how seized everything is though.
Does heat from braking speed up corrosion?
Cheers

KamRacing · 9th January 2015, 21:49

If your dad cannot do it I'd go for option 2

mrrwill · 9th January 2015, 21:56

Price wise what do you think roughly? And are you talking second hand? And without sounding like a wally, ehich bit is the strut? Im in baby shoes with cars and you have probably realised

DipSnapStick · 10th January 2015, 01:57

What he's saying is find a scrappy that has your rear brakes, take the calipers & everything that's damaged on yours, off that car and just do a direct replacement, swap out pads & disks and you should be good to do if you clean the sourced caliper up.

Calipers can range, I've seen them for as little as 20-30 quid but can be in the hundreds for performance onces, I think OEM are about 50/60 quid each, at a scrapyard you wont be looking at that though, if you're going to replace them though make sure the calipers are the same on both sides of the axel.

KamRacing · 10th January 2015, 11:08

I didnt read it correctly. I thought for a minute you were talking about the front. Once the heads are off the caliper bolts they should be relatively easy to get out with the correct tools then swap the caliper over for another.

mrrwill · 10th January 2015, 11:34

I think ive been a bit confused. Ive been googling calipers.. theres two long bolts behind which hold the caliper on to the strut... its not those bolts; its the two bolts which hold the part the pads sit in, to the caliper... if this makes sense? And the bleed nipple is sheered. Gna ask me dad to drill and tap it if he can. Take it you can buy bleed nipples?

mrrwill · 10th January 2015, 11:36

This is a coplete pain in the arse, but at the same time im quite enjoying learning from all this shit

Alfie09 · 10th January 2015, 12:58

Drilling bleed nipples is a night mare!
Normaly end up replacing the caliper

VTSBRO · 10th January 2015, 22:33

Oops sorry - told you I was having a bad week.

I didn't read it properly either

On the rears you should be able to drill out the caliper bolts and re-tap the threads quite easily.

If not then you will need to remove the hub to get the caliper carrier off the rear beam.

As said you can pick up calipers for around £20.00 so no point drilling and tapping the bleed screw, plus every chance of swarf going into the caliper.

VTSBRO · 10th January 2015, 22:50

Oops sorry - told you I was having a bad week.

I didn't read it properly either

After reading your other post it sounds like you mean the pad carrier bolts - think these are 17mm whereas the caliper bolts are 19mm.

If it is the pad carrier bolts, you just need to undo the metal brake pipe from the caliper, undo the 2x 19mm caliper bolts, fit new disc, fit replacement 2nd hand caliper, refit brake pipe, fit pads, bleed brakes and job done.

As said you can pick up calipers for around £20.00 so no point drilling and tapping the bleed screw, plus every chance of swarf going into the caliper.

mrrwill · 11th January 2015, 12:01

Yeah, its the two bolts holding the carrier to the caliper. If i can find away to get them out i will just buy the carrier. Going to leave the rear brakes until then though as i cant bleed the rear left and not even looked at the rear right. As for the front, im going to have a look today. Will i be ok to fit new pads and discs without bleeding, as i dont want to touch the bleed nipples as i suspect they will be buggered too. If its ok to do I'll bleed them once i have figured out what to do about snapped nips.

Cheers

Alfie09 · 11th January 2015, 12:13

No need to bleed brakes if your just changing pads and disc

mrrwill · 11th January 2015, 12:41

Sweet cheers

vincent1 · 11th January 2015, 13:11

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IRWIN-5-Pc...item5ae2be3079

mrrwill · 11th January 2015, 14:31

Its just gotten a whole lot worse; i have proved myself to be an incompetent bafoon.
Got set up, got my locking wheel nut key out, went to pick up my wheel brace and dropped the nut, and in slow motion watched it roll down a grid.

What do i do now? Somebody up there ^ is having a good laugh at my expense. The nuts on the wheel have a thin tip and 4 small holes where the little prongs on the key would seat.

L33h · 11th January 2015, 14:41

Jesus. You need to just stop tryin to do stuff with cars and let someone else. You're not cut out for this stuff hahah

mrrwill · 11th January 2015, 14:43

Haha i know, im starting to think that. Im just clumsy. Its verging on embarrassing

mrrwill · 11th January 2015, 22:18

Do those sockets work well? 'Vincent 1' i'm tempted to give them a go