Oil advice and recommendations here - Page 55 - Saxperience

AS_BO · 24th September 2013, 12:00

Spot on thanks Tim.

The prices as stated in the links are with or without member discount?

Cheers

Matt

oilman · 24th September 2013, 12:44

Hi Matt

Those are the standard prices, use the code SAXP for the members discount.

Cheers

Tim

jimmyray86 · 4th November 2013, 20:48

I have a very high mileage 1.1 98 Saxo, what would be the best oil to use for a top up

jimmyray86 · 4th November 2013, 20:57

Also, I have diesel oil in the shed, its 10w 40 cheap brand stuff. Is this useable?

iVTR · 4th November 2013, 21:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimmyray86

Also, I have diesel oil in the shed, its 10w 40 cheap brand stuff. Is this useable?

You want to put diesel oil in a petrol car?

oilman · 5th November 2013, 09:25

Hi

That 10w-40 should be fine, depending on how basic it is.

There is no such thing as a diesel or petrol engine oil, putting 'Diesel' in the name is done to give the customer confidence the oil is suitable for their car. While some oils might carry specifications that make them suitable for diesel engines, it doesn't make them any less suitable for petrol ones. If you look at the specifications that an oil meets, there will usually be an ACEA one. That will say something like A3/B3 or A5/B5 where the A relates to petrol engines and B for diesels. Diesels can be more fussy about the oil used than petrol engines, but that's usually due to the diesel particulate filters fitted to some modern ones. They need certain oils, but those oils are fine for petrol engines as well. A good example of that is the BMW LL04 specification, which is aimed at long life use in petrol and diesel engines without harming the DPF.

Cheers

Tim

Gandi699 · 5th November 2013, 14:37

Don't some diesel oils contain more detergents?I read a feature on a rover forum where an old car had its sump dropped and you could see it was full of sludge and general rubbish from missed changes etc. They then ran it on a diesel oil of the correct grade and it had cleaned all the old sludge deposits out of the sump when the oil was drained. Not something id try unless it was a very old beater of a car mind you but interesting never the less

oilman · 5th November 2013, 15:10

Hi

Not to my knowledge, most oils labelled as diesel are exactly the same oil as the 'petrol' version, then just sold with a different label.

From the sound of the thing on the Rover forum, the car wasn't looked after properly, leading to a sludge build up, but then any half decent oil with a suitable level of detergents would have cleaned it out just as well. We don't recommend using engine flushes, instead we recommend using a fairly standard oil for a short change (like a weeks worth of use or something like that) and then put the right stuff in. It sounds to me that was what they did with the Rover, but they happened to use an oil labelled 'diesel' rather than something like a reputable 10w-40 semi, which would have done the same thing.

If you have a look at Mobil 1 0w-40 and Mobil 1 0w-40 Turbo Diesel, they meet all the same specs, so both are as suitable for petrol as they are for diesels. That's pretty normal if you look at a normal and 'diesel' version of an oil. The only one I can think of where the diesel and normal version are different are the Castrol Edge 5w-40. The TD version was originally designed for the VW group PD diesel engines, but it also meets a lot of specs for petrol. The PD engines need an oil that can behave in a certain way, it's not to do with a different level of detergents. The 'petrol' version meets loads of diesel specifications, such as the latest Merc, Vauxhall and BMW ones as well as other diesel specs for Renault etc and some petrol specifications. Really it was a bit daft calling one of them the Turbo Diesel version, where it would have been more sensible to call it Edge 5w-40 PD.

Cheers

Tim

Jk_Alentejano · 10th November 2013, 01:39

Hello Tim

I got a Saxo 1.5D with 133k miles, i do moderate to fast driving, but mostly moderate and my climate is mostly 0 to 40ºC.
I always used 10w40 oils but now i'm thinking on putting on a 5w40 beacause of a good deal, would you think will be better for the engine, it consumes very little oil, almost nothing, and it runs strong.
Also, do you recommend changing to oil filter every time? And pro's and con's about an engine flush?

The two options i have are these:
- http://www.wolflubes.com/EN_EU/produ...uct_21116.aspx
- http://www.wolflubes.com/EN_EU/produ...uct_15127.aspx

Best regards

Joaquim

oilman · 11th November 2013, 09:43

Hi Joaquim

A 5w-40 would offer better all round protection.

Engine flushes can be harmful, we don't recommend them generally. If you want to flush the engine out, use some cheap oil and run it for a week or so, then drop that out and use the right stuff.

You should change the filter with each service, they only cost a little anyway.

I can't comment on those oils, we've never dealt with them.

Regards

Tim

oilman · 5th December 2013, 14:43

Hi,

Until midnight Sunday we have a 20% SALE on our website with voucher code SALE20

If you need any oil advice then we are here to help! You can contact us here, alternatively give us a call on 01209 202944 Monday - Friday 8.30am to 5.30pm or send us an email to sales@opieoils.co.uk

Cheers

Oilman

KierenCrawford · 11th December 2013, 09:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by oilman

Hi,

Until midnight Sunday we have a 20% SALE on our website with voucher code SALE20

If you need any oil advice then we are here to help! You can contact us here, alternatively give us a call on 01209 202944 Monday - Friday 8.30am to 5.30pm or send us an email to sales@opieoils.co.uk

Cheers

Oilman

Wish I had seen this before Sunday !!!!

ashj22 · 16th December 2013, 15:41

hi, just found this forum wondering what oil to use on citreon saxo vtr 1998. because at the minute my car is just eating oil,when topped up to the required level then checked less than 200 miles later its not even showing on the dip stick,the oil that im using is 10w 40 mineral because the shop that i get it in has a book and for my car that is what it suggests,also i dont know where the oil is going because my car dosent have plumes of smoke coming from the exhaust and i cant see any leaks. thanks

oilman · 16th December 2013, 16:00

Hi

A mineral 10w-40 is a basic option for that and can burn off quite quickly, although it sounds like it's burning too much. I'd try a 10w-40 semi or full synthetic and if the rate it's burning doesn't slow, then it's likely that it needs some engine work.

Cheers

Tim

ashj22 · 16th December 2013, 16:08

Thanks for the reply. someone said that if i switch to synthetic now the seals may go, is that just rubbish? the only problem at the minute is having to top up alot, the car feels like it drives fine to me.

oilman · 16th December 2013, 16:28

Hi

That's not true, a synthetic will usually help seals.

Cheers

Tim

Cam · 16th December 2013, 18:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by ashj22

Thanks for the reply. someone said that if i switch to synthetic now the seals may go, is that just rubbish? the only problem at the minute is having to top up alot, the car feels like it drives fine to me.

You need to worry about where the oil is going rather then what oil to use

AS_BO · 16th December 2013, 19:25

Hi Tim,

The Sax has gone and I've recently bought a Twingo 133 Silverstone GP. The car is still under warranty but I want to keep on top of oil changes as good practice. It's completely standard but due to the nature of my driving (mainly motorway so due to gear ratios sits at about 4000RPM @ 75 MPH).

Completely standard car due to warranty. 4500 miles on the clock.

Driven in anger maybe twice a week. Want to change gearbox oil too as that is always overlooked and can be the saviour of many a gearbox!!

What can you recommend bud? Fully synth of course as that last stuff you recommended completely transformed the Saxo!

Cheers

Matty

oilman · 17th December 2013, 09:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cam

You need to worry about where the oil is going rather then what oil to use

Yes and no. If the oil used is the most basic thing available, it might not be what it seems. Cheap oils suffer from less quality control, so although it might say 10w-40 on the can, it could be a different grade like a 10w-30. Also, mineral oils burn off quicker than synthetics.

Cheers

Tim

oilman · 17th December 2013, 09:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by AS_BO

Hi Tim,

The Sax has gone and I've recently bought a Twingo 133 Silverstone GP. The car is still under warranty but I want to keep on top of oil changes as good practice. It's completely standard but due to the nature of my driving (mainly motorway so due to gear ratios sits at about 4000RPM @ 75 MPH).

Completely standard car due to warranty. 4500 miles on the clock.

Driven in anger maybe twice a week. Want to change gearbox oil too as that is always overlooked and can be the saviour of many a gearbox!!

What can you recommend bud? Fully synth of course as that last stuff you recommended completely transformed the Saxo!

Cheers

Matty

Hi Matty

Glad the oil worked out for your Saxo. The 133 is a bit fussier due to the warranty, so you need to use one of these in the engine.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-898-rn0710-oil.aspx

Redline MTL, Amsoil MTF or Fuchs Sintofluid are ideal for the gearbox, but be careful with the gearbox as Renault may only let you use the Elf approved stuff for the warranty.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-670-75w-80-75w-85-mtfs.aspx

Cheers

Tim