Rorz Icelandic vtr turbo - Few more parts for the finish - Page 10 - Saxperience

Sophia_Bush · 13th January 2012, 15:38

yeah take the bolts out and soak all the way around rory leave for hr maybe then tap it. I properly had to smash mine a few times to get it moving but once it did it went no damage either despite having to be brutal on it. Here some pics of my old old one

on the tilt like yours is now can just see its touching the bottom edge of the slam

and some turbos gt17 left 25 on right

need any more to help let me know

rorz_vts · 13th January 2012, 16:05

I'm gutted my gt25 didn't come with the air flange welded on just had to buy on of these to fit http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-S14...9#ht_500wt_689

Gav cut I not just cut the bit of panel where it touches or do I get better oil flow if it faces down?

Sophia_Bush · 13th January 2012, 16:54

you want it pointing down so oil returns faster otherwise you will have oil pooling in the bearing which aint good

rorz_vts · 13th January 2012, 18:00

Sound thought as much I'll give it ago tomoz cheers mate

Sophia_Bush · 13th January 2012, 18:24

put a cloth over it and then hit it and remember hit it opo sides to will come free easy

blackie_2k5 · 13th January 2012, 19:51

id change those nuts to some decent ones mate, mate get high temp lockers, theyve got 2 diagonal slits on the back of the nuts, most fastener places will help you

those nyloc'ers will melt within minutes and the engine throw will loosend the nuts off, last thing you wanna do is have to strip it all down when its in...its a proper cunt

EDIT- or is that yours gav?

rorz_vts · 13th January 2012, 20:38

lol thats gavs one andy ive still got the original stud/nuts

Sam_W · 13th January 2012, 23:03

I want one

rorz_vts · 16th January 2012, 11:26

well had a few lovely deliveries arrive, all the parts for the battery relocation kit have arrived including a power box so i can separate the engine bay lines from the inner battery/amp and nos lines, I also got a killswitch with removable keys so no fuckers robbing it now with no power or steering wheel

.
I also won my new intercooler

its brand new made for a skyline R33 the core measures 600x300x75 overall length 780 lol very big unit but will look the tits. Now some of you may wonder why i got such a big one and that because after looking at how I can route the piping to reduce lag i decided that the inlet and outlet need to be on the same side which in turn meant i can run a bigger cooler

, lets do the math... bigger cooler = colder air = more bang.
My lovely sisters bought the 3" to 2" 90degree reducers for me so the intercooler to turbo/inlet pipings sorted and i also got another elbow to fit the 3" to 2.5" i need for the induction to turbo as the last turbo was 2.5" both sides

Ive got the final 2 bits for the oil return line, the turbo inlet flange and i also got a 38mm external waste gate set at 10psi, 38mm screamer and abit of extra pipe to lengthen it. Just need the joining flange to turn up now

Alanapone^p · 16th January 2012, 11:33

Sounds like it going to be a busy week mate

Get some pics up as you go

rorz_vts · 16th January 2012, 11:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alanapone

Sounds like it going to be a busy week mate

Get some pics up as you go

Will do mate busy till the weekend sadly so not going to get much done this week

Things I want to get done before the show season

Get the engine finished
paint gearbox
finish the frame with the kbs coating kit I've got
drop the lump/box in with new loom
plumb in all the boost pipes/intercooler/oil pipes/cooler
wire in LC1 wideband
refurb the alloys in white
double check he whole cars sound and then off for mapping.

then the dreaded vossa test to see if the cars road worthy, possible a MOT - (still in date tho so might get away with it) and then tax it.

Im sure ill find a few new bits to add in like the nos if it doesnt sell but atm I'm focusing on just getting the car up and running

Alanapone^p · 16th January 2012, 11:41

Only got a month until the RR day... get a shift on

rorz_vts · 16th January 2012, 21:38

That gone out the window now mate I'll never be able to have it done in time, I'll bring something tho hopefully he Audi but well see

rorz_vts · 18th January 2012, 20:56

heres a few more pics to keep the thread going..

Put on the inlet pipe and DV

sorted out the direction/length of the piping along with the oil lines

which will connect to this

Yes i am a midget

Alanapone^p · 18th January 2012, 21:01

Could you rotate the oil sandwich plate so that the hoses run under the alternator? That way you could run the short hose from the sandwich plate to the cooler then the medium one to the filter then the long one back to the sandwich plate.

That would make it look a bit tidier and might be able to fit a bit better.

Looks good though either way. I see what you mean about the reduction in pipe work for the I/C too!

rorz_vts · 18th January 2012, 21:21

I can't mate the oil drain bit that's on the sump is in the way, this is just a mock up once the bumper and slam panels back on I'll be able to have them look tidy as the return line clips out of sight so it'll be all good.

Oh and the pipe works longer that I need it I'll shorten it when I put it together

Alanapone^p · 18th January 2012, 21:23

Oh yeah!

Maybe some fancy 90 degree bends? Or are the mounts for the alternator too close?

Either way... Looking good.

rorz_vts · 18th January 2012, 21:42

Its the thickness of the braid against the gap ie alt bracket to sump line, just not possible sadly as that's how I wanted to run them. It'll look better than how the person before ran them looping back behind the mani then to the filter behind the drivers headlight

Nick_j_r · 18th January 2012, 21:50

engine is looking awesome, i want it

stevo1600 · 18th January 2012, 21:59

That coolers mahoosive lol

still nice though,

Any set date on when you plan to drop the lump in?