Jacks Cossack Grey S2 Turbo

[jage]

Why not save and do it right first time?

Personally suspension and braking would come way before power in a 106 imo, 300bhp is a LOT in a tin can haha!

Coming a long well now though!

[Jack-Cooley]

Because i have time and space to fix things and if i keep changing my mind it will never be ready jage.



Question guys, benefits of runninng no arb?

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[welshpug]

More grip, however it can't be done in isolation, the rest of the suspension has to be addressed to make it all work together.


You find most gravel cars will run skinny rear bars and often no front bar at all, hillclimb cars from the satchell workshop tend not to have any, circuit cars often have fairly stiff bars, and disconnect the front at least if its wet.

[Jack-Cooley]

I just dont like my arb + links. Looks ugly and it dosnt seem to sit evenly ill get some pictures when i fit my struts soon

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[Jack-Cooley]

Slightly oversized rad

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[Jack-Cooley]

Right so finished off stripping the 106 that i bought off jordon down tonight, took every last little bit i think ill need off it.


all i have to do tomorrow is ring the scrap guys to collect.


Jobs for tomorrow are get the wiring loom laid out on the driveway and give it a good check over, one of the wires i snapped by accident needs re-soldering but other that that it should be fine


Next purchase will either be a Tial wastegate, or a set of gauges and pods.


The gauges could really do with being ordered first purely because i can then put all my interior in.


engine cant be built up until my manifold arrives on the 28th anyway so thats a while away.


fingers crossed the guy on ebay whos interested in my engine makes an offer around 900+ and i can accept it


Not long now guys

[Jack-Cooley]

Sooo..

Spoox Engine mount turned up today.

Brilliant service ordered sunday evening came wednesday morning, that was free postage too




Only issue is im not sure if the "chunky" side needs to be to the front or rear of the engine, will email them in a moment to ask.



So all was going well, then AAAARRRRRGGGGGHHHHH Wiring..... :'(








after stripping back all the tape i found these




After some inspection and a chat with jordon it looks like they arent needed, Phew!



kinda threw the loom in the inside, need to loosen off the heater matrix so i can feed the loom through it properly and mount it






Stripped back all of the engine bay loom, un-tangled it to get as much wire as possible too





Plans over the next couple days will be to tidy up the wiring and sort out a way to relocate the Omex to behind the dash.


Option 1. Cut all short wires that are not allowing me to move the omex and relocate it to behind the glovebox. Solder all the wires together again and heatshrink

Option 2. get a female and a male omex plugs and build an extention cable. so-to-speak, this option sounds a bit neater but we will see.


Going to do my best to hide or tuck any wiring but there arent many wires anyway since the majority were removed because of the omex.


fingers crossed all goes well


also just made sure my downpipe cleared my turbo





Oh and i lost the large fuse board that attaches to these



the one with the 10mm live feed. not 100% sure how i lost it, i cant find it anywhere!

[jpsaxo]

Wiring = horrible

[Jack-Cooley]

its taken me 2 days to even pluck up the courage to get it out the box!


Imagine all your wiring loom being one loom though.... no connections to split interior and engine.... imagine my pain...

[welshpug]

You either need a bulkhead connector or a big grommet, not omex plugs.

Hole doesnt need to be big, only big enough to fit the biggest one on the loom, 4 pin iirc.

[Jack-Cooley]

Originally Posted by welshpug

You either need a bulkhead connector or a big grommet, not omex plugs.

Hole doesnt need to be big, only big enough to fit the biggest one on the loom, 4 pin iirc.

The loom already runs around by the wing like normal mate,

all ill be doing it sending the ecu back inside the car from the engine bay. ill run it behind the brake servo and in through the small hole that the wiper motor and brake fluid sensor plug goes onto if you get me.

just need to extend the wires from one of the two options i mentioned.

if i had the time skills and money id buy a new wiring harness and build another loom to the perfect length so i could wire tuck it all but i dont think im good enough with the wiring side of things just yet

[gregMK]

Looking good will be watching this

[Jack-Cooley]

Originally Posted by gregMK

Looking good will be watching this

Thanks man.

Should be doing some bits today if i have time inbetween doing the clutch on mums c1

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[Jack-Cooley]

Okay.

The plan was to get the Group N's and A's on the car but my cousin came around so i did a few jobs that take more than two hands!

First of all i soldered a wire back together on the loom and heatshrunk it to keep it nice and tidy.


Secondly i went about bolting up my atspeed mounts and the spoox angle correction mount.


Bolted up the lower mount, which fits PERFECTLY may i add, looks and feels a good quality piece of kit. solid metal too no rubber in there, i imagine its going to be a little bit noisy!




My only question on this, anyone whos running this conversion kit.

does the black bar in the middle of the two rosejoints need to be tight? or can it just be left how ever it is. i cant imagine that it would ever wind off far enough to un-thread either of the joints.



Popped my Spoox correction mount on




Though it has a 20mm and a 12mm side. so one is obviously higher than the other. it seems ive put it on the wrong way! (i hope)






More updates tomorrow, fingers crossed sort the engine mount out and pop the shock absorbers back on

[Rossp]

Yes the lower link should be tight.
Fuck running a solid lower mount any more - 2 years was enough for me. Noisy as fuck. Back to a rubber mount for me. No need for the solid link at all tbh.

[Jack-Cooley]

Originally Posted by Ross

Yes the lower link should be tight.
Fuck running a solid lower mount any more - 2 years was enough for me. Noisy as fuck. Back to a rubber mount for me. No need for the solid link at all tbh.

i was wondering why atspeed didnt offer both.

Okay ross since you've done this all before.

do i hold the black bar still. (assuming its a 21mm) and tighten the small silver nuts against it?


Ill have to bring my 21mm spanner back from work as 19 is all i have at home, and mole grips will make a mess of the nice shiny stuff



Can you shed any light on the spoox mount? im going to email them now and ask

[jpsaxo]

Ditto Ross, fuck running the lower solid mount!

[Rossp]

I can't remember the sizes jack but 21 sounds about right. And yeah, tighten both nuts towards the central hex bar.

[Jack-Cooley]

Brill thanks!

Now waiting for an email back from spoox ragarding weather ive fitted the mount the wrong way around. Fingers crossed i have

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[welshpug]

could just try it the other way round