16v turbo getting hot fast - Saxperience

georgewatts18 · 25th April 2020, 12:20

hi

I have just got my turbo project up and running. and seems to be getting very hot and fast which it never used to. I have fitted a decomp plate the head was skimmed its still using standard injectors and standard ecu and a walbro 250 fuel pump. even with no thermostat in, the car will get up half way on the gauge in less than ten minutes idling I have bleed the cooling system at all bleeding places. once the car gets over half way on the temp gauge the water pipes become fairly hard. other than this the car sounds sweet idles nicely and and revs up nicely. feel like I'm being paranoid because it currently has no cooling fans and a disgusting old radiator. have a head gasket tester coming but wondered if anyone had any other ideas

MartinObviously · 25th April 2020, 15:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by georgewatts18

hi

I have just got my turbo project up and running. and seems to be getting very hot and fast which it never used to. I have fitted a decomp plate the head was skimmed its still using standard injectors and standard ecu and a walbro 250 fuel pump. even with no thermostat in, the car will get up half way on the gauge in less than ten minutes idling I have bleed the cooling system at all bleeding places. once the car gets over half way on the temp gauge the water pipes become fairly hard. other than this the car sounds sweet idles nicely and and revs up nicely. feel like I'm being paranoid because it currently has no cooling fans and a disgusting old radiator. have a head gasket tester coming but wondered if anyone had any other ideas

Don't use the standard temp gauge as a guide, there's a reason it has no scale on it.

Anything below the red line is safe.

Get a good radiator, and an aftermarket temperature gauge so you can see the actual coolant temperature.

don't ever run with no thermostat either, coolant that is too cold will cause damage - there's lots of air flow when you're driving.

Also keep an eye on oil temp, you'll kill a TU engine in about 5 minutes with a turbocharger and hot oil.

georgewatts18 · 25th April 2020, 16:14

have a nissens one on the way but obviously I ordered it from euro so god knows if it'll even turn up and twin fan set up to go on. only not running the thermostat as again im waiting on a new one

georgewatts18 · 25th April 2020, 16:27

also does anyone know if there are any oem fitment 3 bar map sensors that'll work with a dta?

sri_130 · 26th April 2020, 15:48

Did you fit a restrictor in the water line? Just asking, rather that it being a solution or related.

After it has cooled somewhater, is there air in the system?

georgewatts18 · 27th April 2020, 11:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by sri_130

Did you fit a restrictor in the water line? Just asking, rather that it being a solution or related.

After it has cooled somewhater, is there air in the system?

a restrictor?
and honestly haven't noticed will warm it up again to day and see

welshpug · 27th April 2020, 12:08

you probably need larger injectors and absolutely need it mapping properly.

running lean will make it hot.

georgewatts18 · 27th April 2020, 12:15

Quote:

Originally Posted by welshpug

you probably need larger injectors and absolutely need it mapping properly.

running lean will make it hot.

its only idling the turbo shouldn't make a difference? I do also have a 4 bar fpr I guess that could make it over fuel? causing the heat?

georgewatts18 · 27th April 2020, 12:15

Quote:

Originally Posted by sri_130

Did you fit a restrictor in the water line? Just asking, rather that it being a solution or related.

After it has cooled somewhater, is there air in the system?

just warmed it up for 20 mins and one it cooled there was no pressure in the system

sexy_gt · 27th April 2020, 23:43

you need a stat in there or the coolant will flow too freely, not spending enough time in the radiator wont allow it time to cool. This may not be your problem but it will be contributing.

Chipwizards · 28th April 2020, 19:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by georgewatts18

also does anyone know if there are any oem fitment 3 bar map sensors that'll work with a dta?

There are 2.5 bar variants for the later style connector Bosch Number 0261230135 I think.

There are several options for the early type MAP sensors with the 'junior timer' connector.

ONLY buy one from Bosch directly, BMW (they fit R56 cooper S), Peugeot (207 GT/GTI or Citroen (DS3 turbo). If you get one off ebay or Euros you can guarantee it'll be Chinese shit.

BMW R1200 injectors fit nicely, or S1000RR (top set) injectors. Their part number is 0280158038. S1000RR bottom injectors are 0280158037 and they are too small for a turbo application.

DTAs are very good ECUs for 'club level' cars, but they won't drive the 'stepper motor' ISCV used in a TU.

You can, of course, save yourself about a grand and just have the stock ECU mapped to take boost. There are many other advantages to doing that as well, besides cost savings.

sri_130 · 28th April 2020, 20:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by georgewatts18

just warmed it up for 20 mins and one it cooled there was no pressure in the system

Good stuff then. So how long did it take from stone cold, to switching the fan on? Do you have an obd blue-tooth thing? see if that can tell you the water temp.

The restrictor is fitted, to force water through the turbo, otherwise it'll take the path of least resistance and flow through the heater matrix circuit depending where you tapped into the system. Presuming your turbo has a water feed, mine doesn't, but my old one did. Was curious to see if you'd fitted one.

sri_130 · 28th April 2020, 20:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chipwizards

.. Bosch Number 0261230135 I think.

Exactly that. You are my hero Wayne.

georgewatts18 · 28th April 2020, 22:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chipwizards

There are 2.5 bar variants for the later style connector Bosch Number 0261230135 I think.

There are several options for the early type MAP sensors with the 'junior timer' connector.

ONLY buy one from Bosch directly, BMW (they fit R56 cooper S), Peugeot (207 GT/GTI or Citroen (DS3 turbo). If you get one off ebay or Euros you can guarantee it'll be Chinese shit.

BMW R1200 injectors fit nicely, or S1000RR (top set) injectors. Their part number is 0280158038. S1000RR bottom injectors are 0280158037 and they are too small for a turbo application.

DTAs are very good ECUs for 'club level' cars, but they won't drive the 'stepper motor' ISCV used in a TU.

You can, of course, save yourself about a grand and just have the stock ECU mapped to take boost. There are many other advantages to doing that as well, besides cost savings.

lovely when someone just gives good answers.
bought a dta and Genuine Megan 225 injectors already unfortunately.. wanted to use you but you're bit far away for me. Lucky I got the dta at a very very low price

Chipwizards · 2nd May 2020, 20:13

The Megane injectors are OK but you need to mount them twisted so that the split spray pattern goes down the ports properly. You get see the orientation by the drilling in the body near to the top where the retaining clip dogs into to hold them in lign.

Where in the country are you?
I might know someone trustworthy to map it near to you. There's no shortage of cowboys.

georgewatts18 · 3rd May 2020, 19:28

will have to look into that when I fit the injectors
im in Somerset looking to use reidy remaps in yeovil been suggested to me by a few people I know

Chipwizards · 4th May 2020, 08:59

It's always best to use someone familiar with the software you're using.

Sandy Brown is down that way somewhere isn't he? I'm sure he does DTA.

georgewatts18 · 4th May 2020, 17:32

yeah sandy does dta I've seen a few posts on rallye reg from him about blocking off the icv and adjusting the throttle flap to get the correct idle. he will be mapping my brothers rallye sometime soon. but he's also quite a distance from us. I'm confident riedy remaps will get the job done though

but thanks been a big help