Saxo Engine/Performance If you're interested in tuning Saxo engines, or if you need to know something which is engine related... this is the place for you. |
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3rd August 2011, 19:01
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#41
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Established Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: leicester
Posts: 1,446
Car(s): Clio 182 Inferno
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DreamEater
This NEEDS to be made a sticky.
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I agree
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"Remember, street racing is like the paralympics, whoever wins is still a retard"
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7th March 2012, 09:47
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#42
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Infrequent Poster
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Uxbridge
Posts: 247
Car(s): Renault 19
Mk1 Clio
Mk5 fiesta zetec s
Mk2 sax
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How important is it to change the water pump. Not usually necessary!
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7th March 2012, 09:59
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#43
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Saxperience Forum Bum
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Torquay
Posts: 2,930
Car(s): MK2 saxo vtr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SAXOOOOOOOOOO
How important is it to change the water pump. Not usually necessary!
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Not necessary but while you are there you might aswell
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7th March 2012, 11:08
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#44
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Saxperience Post Whore
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 9,100
Car(s): Amazon green VTR 16v, Inferno RS clio 182
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Also adds loads of time to the job as that water pump will not come out without a fight (ie: smashing it until it breaks and frees it grip on the block). Worth doing still though mind
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7th March 2012, 11:15
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#45
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Saxperience Post Whore
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 8,390
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gandi699
Also adds loads of time to the job as that water pump will not come out without a fight (ie: smashing it until it breaks and frees it grip on the block). Worth doing still though mind
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I was terrified that mine would do that, but I just put a screwdriver on the flange and hit it with a hammer so it was trying to spin the pump in the block. Did that and when it broke the seal it near enough drove itself out.
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7th March 2012, 11:27
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#46
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Saxperience Post Whore
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 9,100
Car(s): Amazon green VTR 16v, Inferno RS clio 182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gabbastard
I was terrified that mine would do that, but I just put a screwdriver on the flange and hit it with a hammer so it was trying to spin the pump in the block. Did that and when it broke the seal it near enough drove itself out.
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I was hitting the impellor on mine for about 45 minutes with a hammer via a big bar. I find chipping the flange off where it bolts to the block is what should be done first then just persevere with it, eventually it does shift but its just such a tight fit in the block that makes it a pain.
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8th March 2012, 04:28
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#47
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Established Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Armadale, West Lothian
Posts: 1,230
Car(s): flatty 16v sleeper and a regular vts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SAXOOOOOOOOOO
How important is it to change the water pump. Not usually necessary!
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the engine i bought for my conversion had a new timing belt on it just before i got it. put it in the car and 200 miles later the water pump went. its not necessary to change but for the hassle you may aswell just do it
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8th March 2012, 05:55
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#48
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Infrequent Poster
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Uxbridge
Posts: 247
Car(s): Renault 19
Mk1 Clio
Mk5 fiesta zetec s
Mk2 sax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kennym1987
the engine i bought for my conversion had a new timing belt on it just before i got it. put it in the car and 200 miles later the water pump went. its not necessary to change but for the hassle you may aswell just do it
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Thats true. Is there no way of seeing that it's fine. If the bearings are all smooth and there is no play there shouldn't be an issue. Just to save a few quid!
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I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?n0bzjs
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8th March 2012, 11:12
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#49
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Saxperience Forum Bum
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Torquay
Posts: 2,930
Car(s): MK2 saxo vtr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gandi699
Also adds loads of time to the job as that water pump will not come out without a fight (ie: smashing it until it breaks and frees it grip on the block). Worth doing still though mind
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I just put a screwdriver in between the pump and the block and it came out with ease.
Must of just gotten lucky. lol
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8th March 2012, 11:32
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#50
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Saxperience Post Whore
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 9,100
Car(s): Amazon green VTR 16v, Inferno RS clio 182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heftydanielson
I just put a screwdriver in between the pump and the block and it came out with ease.
Must of just gotten lucky. lol
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Yeah you were there, they are generally a pig
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8th March 2012, 18:57
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#51
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Established Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: leicester
Posts: 1,446
Car(s): Clio 182 Inferno
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i thought this was my old thread......and it was
__________________
"Remember, street racing is like the paralympics, whoever wins is still a retard"
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10th March 2013, 20:53
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#52
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Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Loughborough
Posts: 10
Car(s): Saxo 1.1 Desire
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Thanks for guide
Thanks for the guide it has helped me loads. Any chance you could do one for changing a head gasket.
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11th March 2013, 21:18
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#53
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Established Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: leicester
Posts: 1,446
Car(s): Clio 182 Inferno
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brewer
Thanks for the guide it has helped me loads. Any chance you could do one for changing a head gasket.
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Lol not as of yet mate. But i can tell you what you need to do
__________________
"Remember, street racing is like the paralympics, whoever wins is still a retard"
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12th March 2013, 23:50
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#54
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Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Loughborough
Posts: 10
Car(s): Saxo 1.1 Desire
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Questions
Thanks, I have a couple of questions. Do you need to take off the exhaust manifold as I don't fancy breaking the studs as they are rusty. What is the best way to clean the surfaces up before fitting the gasket.
I appreciate your help. As I live just outside Leicester it's good to know someone I can get advice from
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14th March 2013, 00:18
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#55
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Established Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: leicester
Posts: 1,446
Car(s): Clio 182 Inferno
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brewer
Thanks, I have a couple of questions. Do you need to take off the exhaust manifold as I don't fancy breaking the studs as they are rusty. What is the best way to clean the surfaces up before fitting the gasket.
I appreciate your help. As I live just outside Leicester it's good to know someone I can get advice from
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Either you can take the exhaust manifold off (but id wd40 the studs and leave overnight first) or you can disconnect the downpipe from the manifold and remove the head with the exhaust manifold still on the head, but this just mean its more fiddly to handle(and heavier), and i always clean the head and block surface with fine emery paper, sort of 120grit or smoother, as this way it cleans the head surface and leaves it very smooth, to rougher sandpaper will score/scratch the surfaces. Just make sure you clean properly around the area where the sealing rings on the headgasket will sit (around the cylinder) and use something like carb cleaner to clean oil film from the head and block surfaces before fitting the new headgasket
__________________
"Remember, street racing is like the paralympics, whoever wins is still a retard"
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17th March 2013, 22:48
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#56
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Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Loughborough
Posts: 10
Car(s): Saxo 1.1 Desire
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Well al done and everything ok. Thanks for your help. Now onto the brakes
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16th November 2013, 16:56
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#57
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Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 20
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Help!
First of all I must compliment your guide, its excellent. I'm currently changing the cam belt on my 03 plate vtr. Everything seems to be going well apart from one thing...
When I manually align the belt and turn the crank with a ratchet everything aligns fine. However when I start the car the belt immediately pulls to the edge of the cam (as shown in photo).
I'm using a dayco kit with new tensioner.
I've tried the old tensioner too, same problem.
I've tightened the tensioner a little more, I've loosened the tensioner, always the same problem.
Any advice would be much appreciated!
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28th November 2013, 23:48
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#58
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L-plater
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: yorkshire
Posts: 69
Car(s): 2002 Desire 1.1 Posi Blue
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If the belt moves towards the outside of the cam sprocket when turned ( or when running) it can mean that the water-pump bearings are on their way out leading to play in the water pump sprocket. The tension of the belt then makes it wander to the open end of the water-pump sprocket , and to the outer edge of the cambelt sprocket.
Grab the water pump sprocket and try to push and pull it sideways; if there is any significant movement fit a new water-pump as this will only get worse with use.
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24th December 2013, 00:41
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#59
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Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Downham Market
Posts: 5
Car(s): 2002 VTR
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going to attempt this myself, going to change the belt and water pump in one go, just wondering if i will need the whole water pump housing or just the sprocket+impeller section? Great guide by the way, very detailed
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30th January 2014, 20:03
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#60
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Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 13
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hi great guide very tempted to do my saxo 1.1 hfx engine but I gather there is an auto tensioner on newer engines?
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