6x9 question - Saxperience

richie_boy88 · 26th June 2008, 20:36

hey, im wanting to swap my rear standard speakers ( which are positioned near the quarter panel) for 6x9s can this be done? or does it need heavy modifacation? any pics on this done?

Ashleyp · 26th June 2008, 20:36

dont do it

richie_boy88 · 26th June 2008, 20:37

it was just an idea, how come? wats wrong with it?

Ashleyp · 26th June 2008, 20:43

6x9s = chav toys lol

in a saxo for a good sound system:
- components running off an amp up front
- sub off an amp in the boot

richie_boy88 · 26th June 2008, 20:47

lol are the rears 10cm aswell? thanks for keeping me straight lmao. just a noob question, how do i wire up 2 amps? do i run one amp off my other 1, or both separate? id probly be better off buyin a power cap if i hook 2 amps up to my battery wouldnt i?

Ashleyp · 26th June 2008, 20:51

rears are 10cm.. but not needed.. they mess up your sound staging in a small car like a saxo

if you have 2 sets of RCA outputs on your headunit then run both amps of the headunit... if not (like mine) youll need an rca adaptor which connects the RCA's of 1 amp to the other amp aswell

power caps arent needed..

Predator_R32^p · 26th June 2008, 20:51

there is a thread on 6x9s in the stickies, read it

Ashleyp · 26th June 2008, 20:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by Predator_VTR

there is a thread on 6x9s in the stickies, read it

agreed lol

also pred.. havnt seen you as active in the ice section these days

richie_boy88 · 26th June 2008, 20:58

lol ok cool! thanks a bunch m8

Predator_R32^p · 26th June 2008, 21:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by AshleyPrigmore

agreed lol

also pred.. havnt seen you as active in the ice section these days

moderator now mate, my work rate has upped lol

coonper is doing a good job anyway

i still read through them and suggest things or if they havent been answered ill do it

Ashleyp · 26th June 2008, 21:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by Predator_VTR

moderator now mate, my work rate has upped lol

coonper is doing a good job anyway

i still read through them and suggest things or if they havent been answered ill do it

fair enough

Predator_R32^p · 26th June 2008, 21:19

your in this section quite a bit too, i look on now and again to keep people right too

Ashleyp · 26th June 2008, 21:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by Predator_VTR

your in this section quite a bit too, i look on now and again to keep people right too

yeah you and coonper raised me well.. from the newb i once was.. established member ftw lol

i miss you pred

lool

Coonper · 27th June 2008, 08:34

You could fibreglass some into the front doors if you are good with that sort of that thing. They dont sound too bad then, but they have to be amped up, in a good sized pod, with lots of sound deadening. They are very loud, but its hard to lift the staging due to the tweeters being built into the speaker unit, although if positioned right they can sound good.

icecold · 28th June 2008, 10:48

going back to 6x9's if your sustem is tuened right, they will cause u no problems what so ever the problem most people have is that they dont amp there 6x9's so you cant tune them, if you cant tune them thats wen your sub and 6x9s start fighting over air space, there for causing distortion, cancellation and many other problems. and you kept going on about how music is recorded on two channels, it is often recorded on 24track, but when mastered it is bought down to two channels, channel one for left and channel two for right. the other thing you will find is with modern recording is tracks go through a process call stereo widening, which tricks the ear into feeling that music is coming from 360* around you. you can then play with this once you have your car setup, 6x9's where originaly designed for cars with small boots where is wasn't practical to put a sub i there, so the shape and size of the speaker was ideal to go into your parsel shelf and still be able to re-create bass sounds.

so when setting up a system with 6x9's remember to AMP them, secondly KILL THE BASS, you dont want any bass running through these speakers there wise you will suffer distortion and cancellation get as much trebble as you can, if you have a sub in the boot and it say 300W run it at 200W/250W on a 300W Amp (have the amp set to no more than half way) this will stop you from being able to blow ur sub, over work your amp, and more importantly will stop you from over working you sub, causing bass distortion (a nasty farting sound not a clean bass), then set you rear door speakers as Mid's but again, not too much bass it's the subs job to provide the bass licks. so now you till find sat in the back of you car you can hear the bass coming from all over as it rips through you and your car, then you it feels like the procussion is at the side of you (this is because the sound waves from the 6x9's are going up hitting the roof and coming down at the sides of you. you can then hear the vocals coming from infront of you, and it sound like you are right in the middle of the music (you ill have to play with volume settings on each speaker to get them working together, and dont just turn everything up to max it will sound crap.). so now you have an amasing sound at the back, its time to play with the front, and the bast thing to do is get some components, the tweeters on the dash, throughing the sound at your face, then in you door the woofer (remember this is not a sub, thats what the one in the boot is for!) so tune the door speaker to a mid rangre and the tweeters will sort them selfs out with the crossover. another little trick is to have the rear speakers ever so slightly louder than the fronts, this will give you an amaging sound, and you will have the feeling that you are smack bang in the middle of a live band playing (if you still get destortion remember to turn the bass off on the head unit, the sub can still work with the bass settings turned off on the head unit) so if you tune it right, get the volumes right, 6x9's in the shelf will do you no halm, as long as you do it right.

richie_boy88 · 28th June 2008, 11:31

ok, thats alot to take in lol il have a go at it but im not an audio man lol

Coonper · 28th June 2008, 11:37

Cant say that i agree with much of that above to be honest!

Especially this bit!!!

Quote:

if you have a sub in the boot and it say 300W run it at 200W/250W on a 300W Amp (have the amp set to no more than half way) this will stop you from being able to blow ur sub, over work your amp, and more importantly will stop you from over working you sub

Its never god to underpower things. Its always best to give speakers and subs headroom. This is to send a nice clean signal to the driver and to prevent it becoming clipped, which is basically what blows a speaker.

Even if you were to have a 1000watt sub and a 100w amp it is still easy to blow the shit of the sub. In fact, it is probably easier to blow it with a small amp than with an amp that is too big!

I see how you mention nothing about sound staging and imaging. 6x9's installed in the parcel shelf simply cannot lift the sound dtage in a car! It is generally much better to have speakers mounted at the front of the car as the sound stage will decidedly be at the front of the car, which is good. However, it is sometimes important to have some rear fill, as the music can sometimes lack depth and reality but this is not really the case in a car this small.

Also, as you probably know, speakers work best when built into an enclosure of some kind, such as a sub. If a sub wasnt built into a box it wouldnt sound good at all, infact you probably would even hear it! 6x9's, like a sub, work best when in a seperate enclosure. When it is sharing the same space as a sub, thwy will invariably distort, due to the air movement of the sub. A quick example of this, is when i bought my car it had 6x9's in the shelf, i stuck my subs in while i was waiting for my new spekers to arrive, and i ripped the cone of one of the 6x9's, just from the air movement of my sub. The worst thing was, the 6x9's werent even wired up!!

I would go into the ins and outs of it all, but i really cant be bothered to tell you the truth! All i know is, 6x9's stuck in the parcel is NOT the answer to car audio!

icecold · 28th June 2008, 12:00

no, i agree they may not be the answer, but use them purly for the top-end abilaty and they help no end, and do not get paper cone's! they do rip. i it is better to slightly under power a sub, because an amp is like a car engin, and you wouldnt red line you car every where, so why redline you amp all the time, running an amp at full power all the time makes you run the risk of burning out the coil in you amp. Cliping is like hitting the peek/the redline and that is what damages your speaker, no sound system is designed to run at full wack all the time you will burn components out like i said the coil in your amp, the voice coil in your sub, Amplification=increase of current=heat=burning out/melting of componats and parts. and i am curious as to where you get your information from?

smittytom · 28th June 2008, 12:06

If you under power your sub you aren't going to be sending it the cleanest signal which will in fact be a clipped signal when you turn it up resulting in............... a blown sub

Ashleyp · 28th June 2008, 12:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by smittytom

If you under power your sub you aren't going to be sending it the cleanest signal which will in fact be a clipped signal when you turn it up resulting in............... a blown sub

not true allways.. set up the gain correctly, and no clipped signal will be sent

Rms figures are often something like "50-300watts" so you can power it anywhere within that.. it doesnt have to be 300 or more