Saxo LED dials guide (56K NO NO) - Page 12 - Saxperience

time_to_ride · 25th April 2007, 09:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by Predator_VTR

are you planning on doing the whol dials??

I'm not quite sure what you mean, but...

Im planning on havin a bash at the dials and the clock and the petrol gauge, just not the other lights (headlights, indicators etc.)

davew · 25th April 2007, 10:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by Predator_VTR

haynes should tell you how to get to them mate, once out its just the clips holding the circuit board in that are a bit fiddly, im no good with a soldering iron you just need a steady hand tbh, stroke the iron over the solder while puling on the led with tweezers

heres mine

stop spending money on led's and buy some petrol u tightarse

lol nah look good dude

time_to_ride · 25th April 2007, 10:15

i thought that, but then he might have syphened it out to get the light on...

Predator_R32^p · 25th April 2007, 19:03

they come in packs of 10 i think you need 16 for the actual dials and 30 should do the whole of the dials

fuel light is always on less fuel the lighter my car is

time_to_ride · 25th April 2007, 19:08

So ill order 20, come payday

Quote:

Originally Posted by Predator_VTR

fuel light is always on less fuel the lighter my car is

Your kiddin rite

haha

Bogus · 25th April 2007, 19:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by bondie

Woodsy could you pm me a guide for taking out the clock from a mark 1 Cheers

Bondie

same for me plz m8

Predator_R32^p · 25th April 2007, 20:40

mk1 clocks are basically the same when taking them out, just they have bulbs intead of leds and you will need some lockwood or plasma dials to change the colour of them, as the mk1 dials have a green filter on the back, the bulbs are white but shine whatever the filter is

time_to_ride - yeah am kidding lol, i would do it if i was a rally slag, but with an install i aint exactly gonna be that

, iwas just a bit skint

fuzzy_orange · 26th April 2007, 14:19

Just done this today and f*ck me if when I popped the lcd bit off it didnt just fall off taking the connecting ribon with it!!

Guess im screwed then??

SNewham · 26th April 2007, 14:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by fuzzy_orange

Just done this today and f*ck me if when I popped the lcd bit off it didnt just fall off taking the connecting ribon with it!!

Guess im screwed then??

not completely. If there is any green covering left from around where the contact was, sand it down lightly until you can see the metal and then solder it to that. It will be fiddly though.

In future, make sure you melt the solder first before you pull it off

Predator_R32^p · 26th April 2007, 14:33

so when you took the lcd bit off the ribbon came off with it???

fuzzy_orange · 26th April 2007, 23:18

Yes but never mind that - if you sit it back in the right place the LCD holds it down and makes a good connection

More important problems im really hoping someone can help

Since doing the LEDs (and I have VTR dials) the fuel gauge is f*cked

When you fire it up it says half a tank, then slowly over 15miles it drops down to nothing. Then it bounces from zero to full a few times - then sits at nothing with the fuel light on

If you turn it off and leave it off for a while then start it back up - back to half and does the same thing

Theres another lad on 106 rallye register who's doing the exact same thing

Any ideas ?????

stevenet15 · 26th April 2007, 23:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by fuzzy_orange

Yes but never mind that - if you sit it back in the right place the LCD holds it down and makes a good connection

More important problems im really hoping someone can help

Since doing the LEDs (and I have VTR dials) the fuel gauge is f*cked

When you fire it up it says half a tank, then slowly over 15miles it drops down to nothing. Then it bounces from zero to full a few times - then sits at nothing with the fuel light on

If you turn it off and leave it off for a while then start it back up - back to half and does the same thing

Theres another lad on 106 rallye register who's doing the exact same thing

Any ideas ?????

you could have damaged the internals of the needle motor when pulling it off

fuzzy_orange · 26th April 2007, 23:29

Do you know at all mate if you can buy the motors on there own?

Ive got some old quiksilver dials that had the fuel gauge at the top
I've looked carefully and they use the same track/wire on the PCB so I think they must be the same motor just angled differently

Gonna try putting that into the saxo dials tomorrow and see if it works any better

I did have to pull fairly hard to get the needle off

stevenet15 · 26th April 2007, 23:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by fuzzy_orange

Do you know at all mate if you can buy the motors on there own?

Ive got some old quiksilver dials that had the fuel gauge at the top
I've looked carefully and they use the same track/wire on the PCB so I think they must be the same motor just angled differently

Gonna try putting that into the saxo dials tomorrow and see if it works any better

I did have to pull fairly hard to get the needle off

you cant buy it on its own unfortunatly u have to buy the whole dial unit which is over £400 from citroen/pug. on my one the motor units where identicle looking so there prob the same jsut got to different levels depending on the signal etc....

fuzzy_orange · 26th April 2007, 23:33

I hope so cos I've got about 3 spare ones on my old quiksilver dials

I'll try mixing and matching tomorrow - if not cit-ren sell the vtr dial pods for £35

£400 is mental!!

Thanks for your time/advice mate - appreciate it

Edit: While I remember - the water temp gauge and other gauges move silently, but the fuel one clicks as it goes up

Is that normal?

stevenet15 · 26th April 2007, 23:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by fuzzy_orange

I hope so cos I've got about 3 spare ones on my old quiksilver dials

I'll try mixing and matching tomorrow - if not cit-ren sell the vtr dial pods for £35

£400 is mental!!

Thanks for your time/advice mate - appreciate it

Edit: While I remember - the water temp gauge and other gauges move silently, but the fuel one clicks as it goes up

Is that normal?

no thats not normal, take the front of the dial off and turn the needle with your hand and see how it feels, the take the needle off and re put it back on and see if it changes

fuzzy_orange · 27th April 2007, 15:21

I can confirm the dials are now completely f*cked

I swapped the motor for another - clicking noise went away but still went up and down and wouldnt give me a reading

Unsoldered ALL the blue led's - still knackered

So I soldered all the blue led's onto my old quiksilver dials and put those back in the car and its working fine

Im not sure i'd recommend doing this conversion on vtr's - they dont seem to like it

baronvontinkle · 29th April 2007, 17:52

Hey just wondering if anybody has any of the plcc-2 led's left over they can sell me? I will need enough to do the whole dash. Think its about 25ish. If somebody has a pm would be great

Thanks

stevenet15 · 29th April 2007, 17:59

richo on here sells them for £5 delivered, pm him

Predator_R32^p · 29th April 2007, 20:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by fuzzy_orange

I can confirm the dials are now completely f*cked

I swapped the motor for another - clicking noise went away but still went up and down and wouldnt give me a reading

Unsoldered ALL the blue led's - still knackered

So I soldered all the blue led's onto my old quiksilver dials and put those back in the car and its working fine

Im not sure i'd recommend doing this conversion on vtr's - they dont seem to like it

so you did them on a saxo dial and put them in a 106??

they worked perfectly fine on my VTR dials