Advice on turbo setups :) - Page 8 - Saxperience

jsdvtr · 3rd July 2011, 17:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by blackie_2k5

the renault 5 ones are also used alot, thats what im running

the only main advantages of moving the filter is getting it further away from the really hot mani/downpipe/turbo, and running a bigger filter...which lets face it is never a bad thing

Something like this-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RENAULT-5-...item4152e9d57d

blackie_2k5 · 3rd July 2011, 17:06

thats the one mate, straight on no mods, lots of other cars run them also

Davo106 · 10th July 2011, 03:45

What clutches are people running?

stevo1600 · 10th July 2011, 13:15

well im running standard clutch and gearbox. and 8psi has ripped it to fuck. squeals badly off power now

so dont use standard if i were you.

Ross^p · 10th July 2011, 13:31

Depends on how much torque you're running. Most setups are fine with a single 6 paddle (no point running a 4 paddle as 6 paddle is about £30 more and gives 1/3 more life). Others for higher power choose a twin plate setup but these are quite noisy in neutral.

Last year at 300bhp/250ft/lb I ran this:
http://www.gmcmotorsport.co.uk/clutc.../prod_448.html

Now I'm running this (and to my knowledge am the only person to do so) - it requires a hydraulic conversion and a BE gearbox:
http://www.gmcmotorsport.co.uk/clutc.../prod_619.html

Davo106 · 10th July 2011, 18:33

Shaun has offered me a brand new 4 paddle helix for a good price, think this will probably do me for the power and torque im planning on making.

Tufty · 10th July 2011, 18:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by Davo106

Shaun has offered me a brand new 4 paddle helix for a good price, think this will probably do me for the power and torque im planning on making.

Dont buy it if its a good price mate, clutch is something you do not want going or slipping! Just like brakes, get a little more than you need!

Davo106 · 10th July 2011, 19:05

Tbh it'll be fine for what i need, was just wondering what people with similar spec to what i plan to run are using. People like Blackie... thats the sort of power im after so needs to be able to deal with about 170bhp.

jsdvtr · 12th July 2011, 17:15

Looking at getting my remote oil filter setup rather than going for the smaller filter. I have already got the oil cooler and thermo sandwich plate but im unsure about using the thermo plate fitted to engine then braided lines upto remote filter then to the oil cooler. Would oil still get through to the filter and oil cooler at anytime or does the thermo sandwich plate stop oil from going through it when gets to a certain temperature??

I just didnt want to set it up that way when i come to setting it up and oil not getting to the filter. Could i use the thermo plate as the remote filter?

Also wheres the best place to get the return welded into the sump- Top,Bottom?

Gareth_R · 12th July 2011, 17:20

No you can't use a thermo plate with a remote filter as it will only go through when warm enough not all the time,

Gareth_R · 12th July 2011, 17:20

And sump return must be above the oil level to maintain flow

dannygti · 12th July 2011, 17:23

you want the oil return as high as poss really.

jsdvtr · 12th July 2011, 19:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gareth_R

No you can't use a thermo plate with a remote filter as it will only go through when warm enough not all the time,

Well how do i go about having the oil at the correct temp? Could i use the hermo sandwich plate with the filter?

jsdvtr · 21st October 2011, 06:58

Anyone know what size vaccum hose is needed and if anyone tell me the layout of them when running a external wastegate?

Need some t28 turbo studs?

Gareth_R · 21st October 2011, 10:35

a thermostatic take off plate with a filter over the top will work but is unlikely to fit behind a turbo

You can alter the cooling properties of the cooler by adjusting the angle of the cooler, thus allowing more or less air through the fins.

i use 4mm silicone vac tube, fits pretty much everything, with just a little cable tie on the boost gauge and FPR as those are a little smaller. Silicone grips really well anyway

I have a turbo with a barbed fitting on the compressor housing, so theres a vac tube going from that to the wastegate actuator, with a T piece in it going to the boost controller

Then theres 2 lines coming from the inlet - one has a T in it with one part going to the boost gauge and the other going to the dump valve. The other has a T in it with one going to the FPR and the other going to the MAP sensor

that should be all you need

jsdvtr · 21st October 2011, 14:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gareth_R

a thermostatic take off plate with a filter over the top will work but is unlikely to fit behind a turbo

You can alter the cooling properties of the cooler by adjusting the angle of the cooler, thus allowing more or less air through the fins.

i use 4mm silicone vac tube, fits pretty much everything, with just a little cable tie on the boost gauge and FPR as those are a little smaller. Silicone grips really well anyway

I have a turbo with a barbed fitting on the compressor housing, so theres a vac tube going from that to the wastegate actuator, with a T piece in it going to the boost controller

Then theres 2 lines coming from the inlet - one has a T in it with one part going to the boost gauge and the other going to the dump valve. The other has a T in it with one going to the FPR and the other going to the MAP sensor

that should be all you need

Ive got a small filter which i will be running.

Ok i'll get a 4mm vaccum hose ordered then if thats the size i'll be needing.

Thanks for those instructions of how its set out

Gareth_R · 21st October 2011, 15:15

See how it fits then - I know I had to remove the turbo and mani to fit my take off plate with no filter on lol very tight! See how you get on though every setup is different

jsdvtr · 21st October 2011, 15:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gareth_R

See how it fits then - I know I had to remove the turbo and mani to fit my take off plate with no filter on lol very tight! See how you get on though every setup is different

Well i'll be using a dp manifold and downpipe and i got the small filter as colin (atspeed) said thats what they use so all being well should be ok.

What lenght of vaccum pipe would be enough too?

xxo0pko0xx · 24th January 2012, 17:28

best thing you can do not spend alot is

make your own manifold using a standard one and a flange
a good 2nd hand turbo
universal boost pipes
look at megane intercoolers i got mine for £15!
dump valves on ebay are good

i did mine. so far my build has onlycost £450 and will be running about 130hp from a 1.45 engine

Ross^p · 24th January 2012, 21:04

dump valve is also not required...

But I'd put money on most people wanting on it for the noise.

The less power you run the more you can save (as above) - standard vts clutch can cope with a boosted 130hp engine (as you'll see around 130ft/lb also). Same with injectors - just use vts injectors, £20, sorted.

Go from 130hp to 200hp though and you'll start to see significant cost increases as other bits cant cope (clutch, exhaust, injectors, rad, ecu etc etc). Then to 300hp (a real 300...) and it's a much larger jump. Then 400 is a monumental jump, and above that is well, you get the jist...