Oil advice and recommendations here - Page 45 - Saxperience

oilman · 31st March 2011, 14:50

I would use a 5w-40 synthetic and you will find those through the link below.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-656-5w-40.aspx

Out of those, the best ones are the Fuchs/Silkolene Pro S, Motul 300V, Redline and Gulf Competition. The Motul 8100 X-Cess, Millers XFS, Shell Helix, Fuchs Supersyn and Mobil Super 3000 are good, cheaper alternatives.

As a budget choice, a 10w-40 will be fine and I would either go for the Fuchs XTR, Shell Helix, Millers XSS or Motul 6100

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-657-10w-40.aspx

You need an MTF for the gearbox and I would go with the Redline MTL, Amsoil MTF or Fuchs Sintofluid. The Millers EP 75w-80 is a good cheaper alternative

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-670-75w-80-75w-85-mtfs.aspx

Cheers

Tim

spongaldrifter · 1st April 2011, 14:49

Hi I have oil everywhere and in my Rad. Do you think it's worth doing or just scrap it. I think it may be Head Gasket. The car really runs ok.

Saxo 1.1 1997 76000 miles.

Thank you

oilman · 1st April 2011, 16:09

Sounds like head gasket to me!

Gazza75 · 30th April 2011, 17:24

Hi Oilman,

Saxo
VTS
1.6 16v
2002
79000 miles
Current Engine Oil - Drive Train 5W-40 (think its made by comma)
Unsure Of Current Gear Box Oil

I get a bit of noise on cold start up but when warm all is good with the engine. I have purchased Silkolene PRO S 5W-40 Ester Synthetic Oil from your site as I believe this is a very good oil. I just wanted to check it is ok to use as I only drive my car on the road and it is never used on the track? I also wanted ask if you would recommend doing an engine flush when changing the oil as I have heard mixed reviews about doing this on older/high milage engines and I m also concerned that the cold start up noise may get worse?
I have also heard mixed revies about doing a gearbox oil change, do you believe it to be a good thing and if so what oil would you recomend? I am getting a slight whining from the gearbox when driving, would you also recomend any additives to help reduce the noise and further wear?

Sorry for so many questions and thanks for any advice you can give.

Cheers,
Gary

oilman · 1st May 2011, 19:48

Hi Gary

The Pro S is ideal for track and road use.

It's worth changing the gearbox oil, all oil degrades over time and it won't give the same protection as when the oil was fresh. You*need an MTF for the gearbox and I would go with the Redline MTL, Amsoil MTF or Fuchs Sintofluid. The Millers EP 75w-80 is a good cheaper alternative

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-670-75w-80-75w-85-mtfs.aspx

There is no need to flush the engine and flushing can be harmful. What can happen is the flush can loosen harmless deposits in the engine, but then not remove them. Your new oil goes in and after it gets warm and is flowing nicely, the bits which are loosened come off into the oil, so you end up with hard bits floating around in your oil - the last thing you want. If you really want to flush the oil system, the best thing you can do is drain out the oil that is in there, put in some cheap (the cheapest you can find) mineral oil and run the car for 15 minutes to an hour so the oil gets nice and warm. After running it, drain out the mineral oil and put in the correct oil.

Cheers

Tim

Gazza75 · 1st May 2011, 22:53

Hey Tim,

Really appreciate the advice, will definitly do the gearbox oil change and will go with one of the good ones you have listed. Also appreciate the advice on flushing the engine, using the cheap oil sounds a great idea so will use this method when I do the engine oil change.

Thanks again for all your help and guidance m8.

Gary

oilman · 2nd May 2011, 17:33

Glad to help

Mochachino · 2nd June 2011, 18:25

Oilman..

I have a 2002 BMW 330, it has some awfull oil in at the moment. I have some 5w-40 Millers XFS Fully synthetic that I was going to put in my saxo, can I put this in the BM?

Its ACEA A3/B3 Spec - BMW Longlife 98. Reading in the manual it says "Longlife 01" oil to be used only and that Longlife 98 should only be used for small amounts of top up. Will it be perfectly fine, with BM just saying that for warrenty purposes or should I get some "Longlife 01" ?

oilman · 3rd June 2011, 09:27

Really it depends on what service schedule the car is on, if it's still on a longlife schedule, then no, I wouldn't use the XFS. If it's serviced annually, the XFS will be fine.

Here are the LL01 & 04 oils we have, all of them are fine to use.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-685-bmw-longlife-01.aspx
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-686-bmw-longlife-04.aspx

Cheers

Tim

nazmitocak · 20th June 2011, 13:34

1999 Saxo Vts

Kentcam PT 52
High comp. pistons (12.2 comp)
ITB
Omex 600 ecu

2.000 mile engine

oilman · 20th June 2011, 14:12

I would go 5w-40 synthetic mate http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-656-5w-40-engine-oil.aspx

Cheers

Guy

s555dan · 23rd June 2011, 20:56

Hi Oilman

Can i have your advice for engine oil, gearbox oil and maybe brake fluid if you can

Saxo Vtr Mk1 1.6 8v, used mainly for high rpm activites on the weekend and on track.

Only mods are intake, exhaust manifold and exhaust.

Thanks Oilman!

oilman · 24th June 2011, 10:46

I would go 5w-40 synthetic for the engine, any one of these http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-656-5w-40-engine-oil.aspx

For the gearbox the Fuchs Titan Sintofluid 75w-80 here http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-981-fuch...ion-fluid.aspx

Brake fluid you will need a DOT4 http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-450-brake-clutch-fluid.aspx

Cheers

Guy.

iDale · 6th July 2011, 13:01

Hey Oilman!

Just fitted a 1999 VTR gearbox to my 2002 VTR and I'm not sure which oil to add.

Main use is town stuff, to and from work. And travelling along b roads at weekends to see the girlfriend.

Thanks, Dale

oilman · 6th July 2011, 14:00

Hi Dale

You need an MTF for the gearbox and I would go with the Redline MTL, Amsoil MTF or Fuchs Sintofluid. The Millers EP 75w-80 is a good cheaper alternative

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-670-75w-80-75w-85-mtfs.aspx

Cheers

Tim

kmak577 · 6th July 2011, 14:12

Hey mate, any chance of a recommendation on the following please:

bog standard 1.1 '97 reg 127k on the clock (I am rather impressed!), currently got castrol magnetec 10w/40 floating around in it. No need for gearbox oil recommendation as clutch was changed about 3 months ago. Driven on Welsh A roads, so English B roads

on 30 mile runs at a time normally.

Cheapest OK oil that's nice for MPG ideally please.

oilman · 6th July 2011, 14:27

If you want to go for well priced and quality, the one to go for at the moment is the Gulf Competition. It's not cheap, but it's a top end oil. The better an oil is, the less internal friction there is, making the engine run more efficiently.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-60122-gu...-oil-5w40.aspx

Cheers

Tim

Tyanu888 · 17th July 2011, 11:32

Hi Oilman,
I have a Saxo VTS 2000 model with following:
stage 3 head, high comp pistons (slight rebore in block), carillo con rods-arp bolts, PT-52 Kent cams, Omex 600, pico injectors 260cc (blue), lightened flywheel, Quaife box and Jenvey throttle bodies with 120mm trumpets. The garage in the UK said they took the maximum out of the engine so no chance of skimmimg the head and squeezing out more comp. Oil that was ordered to use is 10-40. I asked whether i can put racing oil or similar and they told me stick to 10-40. So i use Total semi synt 10-40. Would you recommend a different oil, would Millers oils be good at a different grade? The car is in Malta now (warmer climate, humid and hot)and it is used 9 or 10 times a year in hill climb racing. I couldnt understand why the tuning company in the UK said tick to 10-40 no matter what! I always used Total on Citroen but I was told that Millers is quite good! I would appreciate your views on this matter!
Thank you in advance.
Etienne
Malta

oilman · 18th July 2011, 09:49

Hi Etienne

Do you have any idea how hot the oil is getting?

I would use a full synthetic rather than semi, but you may need a 10w-50 if the oil is getting very hot.

Cheers

Tim

Tyanu888 · 19th July 2011, 21:57

Hi,
the oil after a good run gets quite hot but i still have the factory oil cooler which i suppose helps a bit! It is marking between half and three quarters on the little gauge on the speedo (factory fitted one).

One thing is for sure, the top covers get excessively hot, after a few minutes just like the exhaust manifold! The only time i know they kept cool was on the dyno rolling road because the bonnet was open and a massive fan was on the engine directly!
If you had to change to fully synthetic would it be bad if the oil that is already in the engine mixes with the fully synt oil (it is rather impossible to get all the old oil out and somebody told me it is very bad to mix fully and semi synthetic oils! Is that true?

Many thanks