Time Attack Racecar Planet Saxx supercharged! - Page 48 - Saxperience

BIG · 1st November 2012, 14:24

That alfa is the tits!

looks alot better without the canards!

axsaxoman · 1st November 2012, 15:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ross

No mention of a free cup of tea though - they were right, you ARE tight with the tea and biscuits

Offer noted John and thank you

I'm sure we'll meet one day!

tea +biscuits in a tuning workshop?--
lots of coffee +fags +exhaust fumes and colourful language + silly talk of how to get more power and blow up engines

luthor1 · 3rd November 2012, 14:07

Stew, need to get 100% on top of your brakes, even more important with your current power level! Maybe worth selling the HiSpec's as good road/track units and getting some AP Racing items, they will sort it!

kyle4256 · 3rd November 2012, 16:26

i thought the hispec calipers were one of the best 4 pots you can buy? how come they aint stoppping to good?

hard_corejoeboy · 3rd November 2012, 17:23

Cos he has so many powers!

sexy_gt · 3rd November 2012, 17:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by luthor1

Stew, need to get 100% on top of your brakes, even more important with your current power level! Maybe worth selling the HiSpec's as good road/track units and getting some AP Racing items, they will sort it!

once refurbed and modified will be fine. remembering i never ran brake cooling ducts till now and had bias compensator fully backed off. meas front brakes have had to work hard.

hispec calipers are made from 2 halfs. where they join halfs (where fluid is flowed from one half to the other) there is a small o ring. i have fried those. and doing that has made them flattern & spread out. this causes the hole to reduce meaning pressing the brake pedal has a lesser effect.

from my footage im 3 sec a lap slower but im really fannying about there. after watching the footage the first few times i was very disappointed in myself but then remembering the two videos are my 2nd and 3rd outings since charged so i was a little cautious, let alone both my mates given passenger rides are fathers (well one expecting). also in the back of my mind is how much can the ma box take. now its survived the thrashings (that i have no footage of) and now i have heavy shock oil in the box im looking forward to getting revenge.

i look forward to these coilovers, harder springs than i have by 100lbs so weight transfer will be a lot less + i can set corner weights up as they are f,king terrible.

driving it with 600rpm less isnt what i want either. takes a lot of getting used to.

Quote:

Originally Posted by kyle4256

i thought the hispec calipers were one of the best 4 pots you can buy? how come they aint stoppping to good?

kind of explained above there kyle but i have phoned hispec and told them the image you get from their adverts is the b4 calipers are best for track.

its possible to fry them. if i fry them again after rebuild then i will refurb again and sell on the kit for something more serious

using carbon loraine rc6 pads does not help as they dont fade and run super high temps.

sexy_gt · 3rd November 2012, 17:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by hard_corejoeboy

Cos he has so many powers!

i buggered them when i was na. ask john gmc

hard_corejoeboy · 3rd November 2012, 20:45

Blimey well at least it means your driving hard.....or using your brakes too much

yr51ocw · 3rd November 2012, 20:49

I too have had problems with hispecs bridge seals, one metled all together leaving no brakes at all. They are made of butter like their bleed nipples.

Fruitcake101 · 4th November 2012, 10:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by sexy_gt

ive binned the front end stuff. reason why? a few...

That's a shame, it would work well if:

1) the splitter was a bit longer AND the underside of the car was completely flat AND the brake ducts were in line with the splitter. As they were, they were too high from the splitter so mostly useless

2) The dive planes (little side spoilers): their main job is to create vortices down the side of the car to reduce drag and as such they must be curved. They must not be set up to act as a wing.

So, you'd see a reasonable improvement if you have flat underside, 10-15cm splitter, ducts in line with splitter.

Jay_ · 4th November 2012, 13:23

Ever thought of putting an entirely flat bottom of it? Dunno what difference it would make as I'm not up on things like that!!

sexy_gt · 4th November 2012, 17:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by hard_corejoeboy

Blimey well at least it means your driving hard.....or using your brakes too much

more like a combination of the brakes not quite being upto rc6 heat range and having no cooling ducts.

Quote:

Originally Posted by yr51ocw

I too have had problems with hispecs bridge seals, one metled all together leaving no brakes at all. They are made of butter like their bleed nipples.

no shit mate. im pleased im not alone though

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fruitcake101

That's a shame, it would work well if:

1) the splitter was a bit longer AND the underside of the car was completely flat AND the brake ducts were in line with the splitter. As they were, they were too high from the splitter so mostly useless

2) The dive planes (little side spoilers): their main job is to create vortices down the side of the car to reduce drag and as such they must be curved. They must not be set up to act as a wing.

So, you'd see a reasonable improvement if you have flat underside, 10-15cm splitter, ducts in line with splitter.

did you register on saxp to tell me that? (thanks). all points taken and appreciated. i doubt id build a flat underside as its a mostly a trackday only car at the moment. ive also been told by a few knowledgable builders that im not low enough to get any gain from one.

i am looking forward to getting back out there (any circuit i can) and driving it again.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jay_

Ever thought of putting an entirely flat bottom of it? Dunno what difference it would make as I'm not up on things like that!!

covered above

mattrallye · 4th November 2012, 17:42

Nice build mate. What power are you making currently? and what gearbox are you running?

Regis_92N · 4th November 2012, 17:45

Hi,

Very nice car and driving.
I miss the sound of ITBs.
I'm empressed to see the next step

Ps: sorry for my vague english, i'm french.

sexy_gt · 4th November 2012, 18:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by mattrallye

Nice build mate. What power are you making currently? and what gearbox are you running?

vts ma box with quaife atb diff. heavy shockproof oil, helix 6 paddle clutch.

made 238 @ gmc motorsport. however there was a lot of wheelspin and tyre smoke and max power varied on 5 power runs from 6,200-7,000 so experience shows that theres more in it. not masses but certainly more. also it is making 0.1bar more than when rr'd. safe to say 250bhp id say. feels a lot more

Quote:

Originally Posted by Regis_92N

Hi,

Very nice car and driving.
I miss the sound of ITBs.
I'm empressed to see the next step

Ps: sorry for my vague english, i'm french.

thank you. i too miss the itb's but the sc sound is nice too. the video does not quite capture the sound of the car on boost.

nice to hear your interest from france

sexy_gt · 4th November 2012, 18:50

330mm 8 pots haha

http://racingshop-germany.com/K-Spor...x32mm-8-Piston

unreal106 · 4th November 2012, 19:10

Yeah same problems here with the hi spec - personally they don't give great customer service at all

blackie_2k5 · 4th November 2012, 20:22

330

So you'd need probs 17" rims to get away with it.. Might just scrape them on 16's mind

Edit- 17". Ad sais at bottom

axsaxoman · 5th November 2012, 09:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by unreal106

Yeah same problems here with the hi spec - personally they don't give great customer service at all

the problem with this model of caliper is it was always meant as a ROAD caliper ,thats why it has dust seals .

no race calipers have dust seals ,because there is no rubber that can take the temps ,also no race calipers have internal tranfer ports for same reason --no "o" ring can take the temp
race caliper have extrnal bridge pipes .

I think the main problem is the cars balance /bias is wrong meaning too much braking is done at front and not enough at rear .
a car should not "dive" under braking if it does then there is too much braking at front and not enough at rear
the usual cause is too little weight on rear or too much weight transfer on braking --
sort the ride heights +srpinging and damping then set up front to rear braking correctly and porblem will dissappear

making flat floor ?--done it 15years ago on our ax race car --made no difference at all ,other than making it very hard to service anything

the bottom line is you are not going fast enough to get any aerodynamic advantage ,same goes for spoilers etc
watch the vd of the alfa (few pages back) and look at his speeds max is 130 mph and 90% of the time he is alot less than 100mph -
-so forget areodynamic bits--just more drag and you don,t have the excess of bhp to pull it with a saxo

Regis_92N · 5th November 2012, 09:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by axsaxoman

I think the main problem is the cars balance /bias is wrong meaning too much braking is done at front and not enough at rear .
a car should not "dive" under braking if it does then there is too much braking at front and not enough at rear

Yep To adress that I was wondering which rear brake pads will be the best.

I though about the Ferrodo DS 4003 with a good initial bite with the aim to well settle the rear of the car on the first time of the braking to avoid too much weight transfer.

Am I right or not? What do you sugest?