Question about sound deadening

[Bodeka]

I'm having a go at this on the saxo this weekend. As I'm running on a low budget, I'm purchasing 10 200x250mm silent coat tiles for 15 quid. As i don't have enough to cover everywhere, the question I have is:

What are the key areas to sound dampen? To my understanding, you should cover all holes in the door, following that I'm not sure. I thought the deadening material is used to add weight to the doors and to stop them from resonating, so where should I apply after I've covered the holes? The door? The door cards? Is there any specific places for sound dampening or is it simply get as much on as possible.

Again, as I'm on a budget, I can't purchase enough to cover the whole door. I may add more at a later date.

And a side question, how do you run wires from the amp to the door speakers? What's the easiest fix you've all found?

Cheers guys.

[axsaxoman]

If i was into that sort of thing i would be spraying a nice layer of foam on door skin inner
obviously not so much it stops windows working to start with and all other exterior body panels like rear quarter panels get of the bean can build quality or stick polystyrene to outer panels
is very cheap from builders merchants
under £15 will get you an 8ft x4ft sheet

[Bedford126]

Silent coat is excellent, in a ideal situation you would cover the outer skin in silent coat and then seal the holes and inner skin of the doors with silent coat too, in a ideal situation making a sort of sealed box containing the speaker.

Just one sheet at the back of the speaker then around where the speaker mounts will make the world of difference.

I run my wires through quick release terminals found at most decent audio stores using gromets in the door and a pillar.

Running wires I use stick on cable tie anchors on eBay keeps them neat and tidy and no chafeing.

[Bodeka]

Originally Posted by Bedford126

Silent coat is excellent, in a ideal situation you would cover the outer skin in silent coat and then seal the holes and inner skin of the doors with silent coat too, in a ideal situation making a sort of sealed box containing the speaker.

Just one sheet at the back of the speaker then around where the speaker mounts will make the world of difference.

I run my wires through quick release terminals found at most decent audio stores using gromets in the door and a pillar.

Running wires I use stick on cable tie anchors on eBay keeps them neat and tidy and no chafeing.

Cheers, went ahead and sound proofed it with silent coat, makes a world of difference. Purchased some replacement door clips as a few broke during installation. Next step is getting an amp in to power my new front speakers. Thanks for the advice.

I've decided to leave door speaker cable standard due to laziness, will new speaker wire make that much of a difference? How did you run the wire through the grommets, how simple of a job was it? Again, thanks.

[Bedford126]

Easy plenty of guides on the net, standard speaker wire is ok for standard systems, I use oxygen free wire for all my installs so can’t really compare, it’s a expense that once it’s done you don’t need to change it again.