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Old 13th September 2008, 07:10   #1
kat_cam85
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Default Step by step guide to replacing brake pads?

Hi, i'm looking to change my brake pads as the standard ones are worn and to be honest they were never any good anyway.

I've found some EBC pads that i'm hoping to fit but I'm pretty clueless here, I know that i'll need to do the following:

1) Remove the old pads and replace with the new (obviously).

2) 'Bleed' the brakes and replace the fluid, I know where the reservoir and the piston are under the bonnet but that's about it!

I've had bad experiences with garages (namely DUTTON FORSHAW CITROEN IN PRESTON) and I want to do the work myself.

Can anyone help me step-by-step including tools needed and let me know if it's ok to jack the car up (or are axle stands needed).

Sorry to sound like a total dunce but I've got to learn somewhere!!

Thanks in advance............
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Old 13th September 2008, 09:28   #2
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-Loosen off wheel bolts when car is on ground and put into gear and put on hand break
-Jack up front of car and remove wheels
-Undo the brake fluid resivour(sp) cap and then leaver the front brake pistons back, I wedge in a screwdriver against teh back of the outside pad and the carrier
-When you get to the front calipers, there are 2 19mm bolts that hold the carrier and caliper to the strut, undo them and remove caliper, then swap out pads. Note those 19mm bolts should be in there pretty tight or even thread locked so have to give it some force to undo. The pads should just slide out, will be obvious when you have the carrier and caliper off.
(note when replacing pads, expecially with just cheap standard stuff it's best to do the disks at the same time, the disks should just be 2 torq screw holding them against the hub, t40 or t45 iirc although most cars don't have them due to being snapped off !)


To bleed the brakes you have to start at the furthest away from the master cylinder, so when looking at car, start with back left, then back right, then front left and finally front right.
-Bleeding is just a case of undo the bleed nipple on the caliper that you want to bleed and pump the brake pedal until a steady stream of fluid comes out. Note that you should only have 1 bleed nipple open at a time, don't bleed one caliper while having another calipers bleed nipple open.
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Old 17th August 2010, 22:10   #3
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how longs it take roughly to bleed the brakes. gotta do it soon when i get my new pads but need to know how long i need to have spare
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Old 17th August 2010, 22:17   #4
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About 20 minutes the actual bleeding at most as long as nothing snaps off or anything silly like that. But I would say half hour taking your time and the jacking up and removing the wheels etc etc.

The full pads and disks replacement and bleeding, I would leave at least an hour if you ain't done it before.
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Old 29th April 2011, 07:26   #5
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Default i'm gonna attempt to do my brakes today so i'll either be drivin to work tonight or gettin the bus lol

Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Notorious_C_A_T View Post
About 20 minutes the actual bleeding at most as long as nothing snaps off or anything silly like that. But I would say half hour taking your time and the jacking up and removing the wheels etc etc.

The full pads and disks replacement and bleeding, I would leave at least an hour if you ain't done it before.
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Old 29th April 2011, 10:55   #6
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Originally Posted by The_Notorious_C_A_T View Post
-
To bleed the brakes you have to start at the furthest away from the master cylinder, so when looking at car, start with back left, then back right, then front left and finally front right.
-Bleeding is just a case of undo the bleed nipple on the caliper that you want to bleed and pump the brake pedal until a steady stream of fluid comes out. Note that you should only have 1 bleed nipple open at a time, don't bleed one caliper while having another calipers bleed nipple open.
Just to specifi this abit more... You have to pump until the new liqiud comes out. Then you pump one last time hold the pedal to the floor and close the bleeding valve, if you let go it will pull air back inside. So basicly you would have to get someone to help you with this.
And remeber to keep an eye on the resovouir level if it runs dry you get air in the system.
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Old 3rd May 2011, 17:34   #7
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Read the guides?
1- http://www.saxperience.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=245202
2- http://www.saxperience.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=245166
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Old 20th June 2011, 16:40   #8
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I have warped discs should I change the pads as well??
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Old 20th June 2011, 18:13   #9
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you don't need to bleed the brakes if your just changing the pads and discs only need to bleed the brakes if your undoing the flexy hose or replacing brake fliuid.
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Old 15th August 2011, 14:50   #10
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I have warped discs should I change the pads as well??
yes, you should always put new pads on when changing disks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by f13sta View Post
you don't need to bleed the brakes if your just changing the pads and discs only need to bleed the brakes if your undoing the flexy hose or replacing brake fliuid.
Thats what i thought, you may have to undo the brake fluid reservoir cap so you can push the caliper back but thats it. No need in bleeding unless the calipers and/or hoses are getting changed as no air is getting into the system. Dont know why people are thinking you need to bleed the system with a pad change???
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Old 15th August 2011, 17:06   #11
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No need to dig up old threads :-)

+1 On my postcount too
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Old 5th March 2013, 13:42   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Notorious_C_A_T View Post
-Loosen off wheel bolts when car is on ground and put into gear and put on hand break
-Jack up front of car and remove wheels
-Undo the brake fluid resivour(sp) cap and then leaver the front brake pistons back, I wedge in a screwdriver against teh back of the outside pad and the carrier
-When you get to the front calipers, there are 2 19mm bolts that hold the carrier and caliper to the strut, undo them and remove caliper, then swap out pads. Note those 19mm bolts should be in there pretty tight or even thread locked so have to give it some force to undo. The pads should just slide out, will be obvious when you have the carrier and caliper off.
(note when replacing pads, expecially with just cheap standard stuff it's best to do the disks at the same time, the disks should just be 2 torq screw holding them against the hub, t40 or t45 iirc although most cars don't have them due to being snapped off !)


To bleed the brakes you have to start at the furthest away from the master cylinder, so when looking at car, start with back left, then back right, then front left and finally front right.
-Bleeding is just a case of undo the bleed nipple on the caliper that you want to bleed and pump the brake pedal until a steady stream of fluid comes out. Note that you should only have 1 bleed nipple open at a time, don't bleed one caliper while having another calipers bleed nipple open.
Wish I didn't buy the torq sizes mentioned above.. would've saved myself 10 quid..
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Old 16th April 2013, 23:16   #13
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Wish I didn't buy the torq sizes mentioned above.. would've saved myself 10 quid..
What size torq is needed?
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