106 quicksilver 1.4 turbo, need help + advice

[Ladab6]

Well guys sorry guys I know it's not a saxo but I do believe they are more less the same and I'm bit desperate to leach on some advise 😊😀. So I bought a 106 1.4 quicksilver very very cheap drives great but the real reason I bought it is because i have a turbocharger out of a 2.0 diesel mondeo in the shead have a couple of intercoolers and pipes from the glanza days 😏 What I want to know would I be better off with the 1.6 vts/gti injectors or 2.0 306gti injectors?? Also is it ok to get the ecu chipped or does it need a stand alone... Just want a cheap bowl of fun and some experience in turbocharging a car..

[Chipwizards]

You'll probably find the diesel turbo exhaust housing isn't a suitable grade of iron for petrol use because they run much hotter.
Diesel ones are usually pretty low grade cast iron but petrols are actually cast steel, with about 30% Nickel content so they don't crack up and fall to bits.
Assuming your ECU is a Marelli 1AP it can be made to work with boost. Not sure what other ECU versions were used on Quickies because I haven't seen many of them, and those I have have all been MM 1APs. On the 1.6 16v turbos I use Renault R26R injectors.

[Ladab6]

Thanks for the info I know about the temp difference and such but because moist the stuff is in the yard I thought why not. But the ecu info and injectors is much appreciated I'll post progress as I et on with ����

[jack-s5axy]

don't mean to hijack this thread but im fairly interested in the same thing as am looking to mate a 1.4 bottom end onto a s2 rallye head and turbocharge it to run in class B1 hill climb so be interesting to see if anyone has more experience with this type of thing for me too

cheers

[Chipwizards]

Originally Posted by jack-s5axy

don't mean to hijack this thread but im fairly interested in the same thing as am looking to mate a 1.4 bottom end onto a s2 rallye head and turbocharge it to run in class B1 hill climb so be interesting to see if anyone has more experience with this type of thing for me too

cheers

2 litre class with the 1.4 factor for boost?

Does it have to be 8v? I'm not familiar with the regs these days, not done hills since 1992!

[jack-s5axy]

Sorry a1 "Road going class up to 1400cc"

[Chipwizards]

So you need a 1.0 litre then with the 1.4 factor for boost, unless you use a diesel then it gets negated I think.

[axsaxoman]

1ltire is an interesting idea----but think finding right turbo ,that don,t take forever to spool up, cheaply could be a problem
depending on how deep the pocket is --s/c?
would be far more drivable --no lag
get definative reply from organisers as to what you can do before starting -
quite often boost is a factor of 1.7
could use an 1124 cc unit if that the case,

either way your std gear ratios will be all wrong --even if staying with n/a 1360 --first money should be c/r gear kit --there are NO std cit or pug ratios in ANY car that will be right for what you are doing .so best performance increase to start with is c/r g/box +lsd if allowed

[Chipwizards]

Boost factor for circuits used to be 1.7 John and for hills and sprints 1.4. That's how it was when I was doing it in my model-T though. :-)

If it is 1.4 factor I was thinking 1.6 16v motor with 1300 Rallye crank and longer rods. That gives you 1417cc, so 1984 with 1.4 boost factor.

I hillclimbed a Suzuki SC100 (970cc) with a Reggie 5 blower on it and that worked well from 4-8k. I did make my own version of anti-lag though, which ported fuel from between the butterfly and the carb throat through a backfire valve directly into the exhaust manifold. By 'eck it did it did make good flames but it definitely helped coming out of tight corners. You just had to make sure it was properly hot before the run or it wouldn't light up in the exhaust. :-)

[axsaxoman]

well I made a similar type of unit to explore the heat in block problems I was having with my mega powered 1.6 s/c car .
wanted alloy block and loose liners --modified 1360 alloy block to take 16v guide rollers etc --then dropped everything from my 1.6 engine on it but with 1.6 crank +machined std 1360 pistons so they din,t stick out the top --this was only ever going to be a test motor
with 1.1 boost it made over 300 bhp + 250@wheels--but ran 30 degrees cooler
thats when I stopped trying for more power on cast iron block , settled for 280 @wheels all day long + 280 in fwd is enough to work with --maybe ok for drag racing these 400+figures --but not for circuit +1 hour at a time
the next step would have been to work with the DS3 engine -- but lots of things need changing +didnt, see pay back for all that development ,also explains why they went back to loose liners

but yes i remember a 1294cc gravel AX in spain done in the 90,s with s/c +turbo making supposedly over 400 @9k with X-Trac sqential +all the goodies-so yes what you suggest would work well,once you welded up the head chambers so the 16 head sat on liners correctly

not sure this man is into this sort of work .lol

[jack-s5axy]

digging up an old thread but im sure chip wizard is right in that 1.4 modified class should be able to run boost , managed to get myself a good tu2 and have a t25 turbo so going to have a play with that combination and see what happens

any input would be much appreciated

[jack-s5axy]

sorry I ment if I run 1.4 (or 1300cc in my case) with boost I will be in the same class as 2.0 na I bealeave ?

[axsaxoman]

some regs use 1.7 factor not 1.4 --so check with them first

if thats the case then you could use an 1124cc engine 1124x1.7 =1910--
not done the numbers but maybe the 1124 rods+ 1360 pistons+ liners + 1124 crank might get you closer to 2.0
if it works out you then you would probably need to shorten liners--block is approx 5mm shorter

[jack-s5axy]

done abit of reading and im pretty sure its x1.4 if I do the tu2 that gives me 1294 x 1.4 = 1811 cc happy to be in the up 2.0 NA class

any advice or pointers on boosting these these tu2 engines ?

not looking for crazy power 175/80bhp is the goal with as much torque as possible

regards

[axsaxoman]

thats a whole book --.lol

i going hills or sprinting first thing to buy is a c/r gear kit and plate dif +dif crown wheel +pinion
THERE ARE NO STD RATIOS =DIFS that are suitable for the job --all way to high and ratios all over the place
so theres your first spend --even with std engine on a race circuit it makes at 6secs a lap differnce

[jack-s5axy]

I totaly understand what your saying but I don't have that kind of money just yet I'm doing everything my self in my back garden so it will be a standard box with atb for time being

[axsaxoman]

my advice is spend money on g/box +dif for best on track performance for money spent - ATB is not the best for what you doing as you need ulitmate grip of a plate dif for that +you have no options of changing final drive ratio
engine later
-std gearing is totally rubbish for sprints=hills --first gear will be about 23 mph --second 55mph--so such a large gap you will suffer one very tight up hill slow speed corner +overall high gearing will make it worse.
best other compromise is to fit 13" wheels + low profile tyres tyres to drop overall gearing--you won,t need big front brakes for what you doing anyway

you say in first post you just want experience of turbo charging a car ----so just do it and mind never the class you are in --you ain,t going to win nothing anyway --just look upon it as a fun day out

[NeoN]

On the off chance it's useful, you can get liners for an AX Sport cheaply from RockAuto - they're '1.1-height' 75mm liners - I have some in my 106...

[ababaz]

doin turbo conversion is not that hard

make it run right (ecu management clean idle..) is more difficult i guess...

[Chipwizards]

Doing a turbo conversion is easy, doing one PROPERLY is rather less so.