View Full Version : Advice on CAMs and OIL
bloz
27th March 2008, 15:34
Hi I am going to give the beast her first service since well before Nurburg last year (so she thoroughly deserves it).
Just wondering I know everyone recemends 10w 40, but what does the 10w stand for and what difference does it make because I have been running mine on 0w 40 for ages now.
Also I getting some Kent PT50 cams (which I believe are fast road), was just wondering what I will need with them when I come to fit them ie/ will I need the solid followers things like that??
Any help greatly appreciated thanks.
VtsTom
27th March 2008, 15:57
50s are VERY mild, 51s are best for stanard ecu inlet etc.
New standard followers are worth fitting, depending on millage maybe new valve springs and guides.
10w/40 will be fine, just use decent quality oil. If you go fully synthetic you cant go back to semi
khj100
27th March 2008, 16:34
Hi I am going to give the beast her first service since well before Nurburg last year (so she thoroughly deserves it).
Just wondering I know everyone recemends 10w 40, but what does the 10w stand for and what difference does it make because I have been running mine on 0w 40 for ages now.
AFAIK most 0w40s are fully synth so as said about you will need to flush it through a few times if you want to go back to 10w40 semi-synth. Personally, I run 10w40 Shell Helix in mine and have never had any problems.
Also to answer your question the two numbers are a viscosity rating at different temperature extremes. Basically the first number gives viscosity at low temp and the 2nd number at high temp. 0w is thinner than 10w when it's cold.
bloz
27th March 2008, 16:49
Ok so if 0w is thinner when cold does that mean its better when it gets hot? Or just that 10w is better from cold?
Also the mileage is 76000 now so new springs would be good I guess?
so are the PT50s the equivalent to Fast Road?
Like I said atm its got 0w 40 fully synthetic.
samcook
27th March 2008, 17:11
as if you havent serviced your car since the ring last year, you lazy lazy person bloz!
bloz
27th March 2008, 17:19
My theory was if it aint broke dont fix it, to be fair though from May (Germany) it was off the road until September so thats my excuse.
Are the PT50s any good then>?
VtsTom
27th March 2008, 17:44
I wouldnt bother, only "slightly" better than standard. You can run 51s perfectly well of a remaped ecu and they will be much better
andywiddss1
27th March 2008, 20:57
u should change ur oil after every track day even more so with high milage engines not worth killing ur engine for the sake of 30 quid oil change mate
Toad
29th March 2008, 09:01
Ok so if 0w is thinner when cold does that mean its better when it gets hot? Or just that 10w is better from cold?
Also the mileage is 76000 now so new springs would be good I guess?
so are the PT50s the equivalent to Fast Road?
Like I said atm its got 0w 40 fully synthetic.
No, 0W will generally have better "cold start" characteristics as the oil is thinner at lower temperatures. The fact that both types of oil have a 40 hot rating, means they will be the same viscosity at their maximum temperature. I'm using Castrol's racing 0W40, but the engine is definately more noisy. The car is just over 50k now, so I will move to a 5w40 very soon. I think Shell Hilux Ultra 5W40 is a very good fully synthetic oil.
RCD-Performance
29th March 2008, 11:26
Im a fan of the Helix range, my thoery is, what ever Citreon say to use, use it. Unless heavily modifying the engine.
They have engineered the tolerances to use a specific oil to give a specific characteristic when cold.
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