View Full Version : Valve stem seals
robut
10th May 2010, 15:03
The slag has started pumping out blue smoke out of the exhaust so I'm guessing the valve stem seals are shot.
I was wondering; if when I replace these is it worth getting the head skimmed as well, because I'm going to have to change the head gasket to cure a small oil leak.
I'll also change the timing belt and tensioners etc...
Also is there anything else worth while doing whilst its all in pieces (apart from cams/turbo/flux capacitor).
I won't be doing it for a while yet, cause my arm is in plaster
As my luck goes, I finally finished my 16v conversion after a month of the car being off the road (earthing fault causing the loom to melt a few wires) I had the bugger on the road. Goes well, pulls strong and runs okish considering I havent plumbed in a return fuel line because I cant get my hand on the correct pump.
Thanks
jono83
10th May 2010, 15:11
The flux capacitor is an easy and worth while mod. if you dont like it just go back in time and stop yourself from doing it.....
robut
10th May 2010, 15:32
Hah sound like the voice of experience?
robut
10th May 2010, 15:34
The flux capacitor is an easy and worth while mod. if you dont like it just go back in time and stop yourself from doing it.....
Also what happens if my future self and past self meet?
raunchz
10th May 2010, 15:36
Also what happens if my future self and past self meet?
the valve stem oil seals get done twice as quick
jeffchiz
10th May 2010, 17:22
the valve stem oil seals get done twice as quick
i lol'd pretty hard at that lol
i think this had gone a little off topic haha
robut
10th May 2010, 17:44
I lol'd.
But seriously :|
raunchz
10th May 2010, 17:47
tell him to bring me back some shoes:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=28Wa5L-fkkM
raunchz
10th May 2010, 17:50
If you owned one of these:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A2S7J_JBWds&NR=1&feature=fvwp
you wouldn't have problems with the valve stem oil seals
robut
10th May 2010, 17:56
I might just go back 2 years and tell my past self to buy a civic or something.
robut
10th May 2010, 17:58
Or go back 2 months and do what I need to do whilst the engine was on a bench.
http://www.experience-it-all.com/?p=3655
robut
10th May 2010, 18:00
Also
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Flux-Capacitor-7-Inch-Dual-Zone-Car-DVD-System-GPS-/200423900282?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Audio_TV_Electronics_In_Car_Entertainment_GP S_In_Car_Audio_Players_PP&hash=item2eaa32047a#ht_7491wt_850
raunchz
10th May 2010, 18:01
Or go back 2 months and do what I need to do whilst the engine was on a bench.
http://www.experience-it-all.com/?p=3655
Or go into the future and the valve stem oil seals should have been done ?
robut
10th May 2010, 21:03
Or go into the future and the valve stem oil seals should have been done ?
lol
Anyone have anything else to add? Preferably not about bending the space-time continuum.
raunchz
10th May 2010, 21:06
I'd lightly regrind all the valves in and new camshaft oil seals.
Use a 10mm socket to push the valvestem oil seals over the valve guide - very easy to do!
robut
10th May 2010, 21:15
re-grind the valves just to remove the crap off them?
Thanks for the 10mm trick.
Can I reuse the collets and valve springs or is it worth replacing them too?
raunchz
10th May 2010, 21:18
Reuse collets and valvesprings.
Just to clean the sealing surfaces up so they seal nicely
robut
10th May 2010, 21:28
I see, so I dont need the old 9" angle grinder, just some 1500 grit?
raunchz
10th May 2010, 21:59
Lol 1500 grit?!
You get some fine valve grinding paste and put it inbetween the valve seat and the valve and spin the valve so you end up with a smooth surface for the valves to seal against the head. Remove the paste and move onto the next valve.
Buy a haynes as it details it in there
robut
11th May 2010, 10:59
Blonde moment.
robut
11th May 2010, 11:10
Blonde moment.
I was thinking of the valve faces :|
robut
12th May 2010, 20:10
Is its worth replacing the piston rings whilst I'm at it?
jono83
12th May 2010, 22:59
You might as well if they need doing, saves taking the head off twice
robut
13th May 2010, 16:44
Right next question:
crank out or unbolt and push them out the top?
where can I get the rings from and do I need new liners?
I'm think i should replace the big end, crank and other bearings too?
raunchz
13th May 2010, 16:50
It's basically an engine out job.
You can't just replace the rings and leave the bores alone (vts engine doesn't have liners). You need a surface on the bores to wear the new rings in against - so will need a hone.
Bearing that in mind, I wouldn't change the rings - or do it properly and just rebuild the engine. So new bearings, rings, hone the bores, head rebuild etc.
robut
13th May 2010, 17:51
Bit of a shitty situation I'm in then. I'm mostly annoyed because I bought the engine off a guy from ebay who "sells loads of these engines" who told me that it was a good runner, and having only done 60k I believed him :/
Anyone have a ball park figure for me if I do most of it myself?
And preferably a complete parts list, lol!
vBulletin® v3.8.2, Copyright ©2000-2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.