View Full Version : Losing weight from car (Which polycarb windows)
jsdvtr
20th May 2010, 10:36
Ive thought what could be a good thread for the stickys.
People wanting to lose weight from there car, a list of what to replace and what it weights and say like a bonnet; what standard weights, what a fibreglass item weights, etc
jeffchiz
20th May 2010, 11:23
this could be a good thread if people reply to it with accurate figures
Saaamon
20th May 2010, 19:05
My fibreglass bonnet saved me some weight, stripping it also lost some weight but the rollcage didn't help in the quest for lightness.
H-Unwin
20th May 2010, 19:07
spare wheel is only thing ive removed, one to save weight and two i looks stupid IMO hanging under car
Off topic (kinda) mentioned to my mate about stripping and removing the rear bench, anyone comment on how much this would cut in weight?
reading my service manual (one in the grey rubber folder in the glove box) unladen weight of a standard VTR is 950kg
seems the most obvious thing to do, remove the rear bench, but how much weight can be saved?
willsy
20th May 2010, 20:35
seems the most obvious thing to do, remove the rear bench, but how much weight can be saved?
Not a great deal of weight saved by removing the rear bench alone. Certainly no more than 10kgs at most
Saaamon
20th May 2010, 21:13
Even when you do it properly there's not much weight to get rid of. 50kgs max i'd say.
adamskiTNR
20th May 2010, 21:16
The only way to shed real weight would be lightweight components, not removing things. Stuff like inner skins and stuff.
Saaamon
20th May 2010, 21:24
The only way to shed real weight would be lightweight components, not removing things. Stuff like inner skins and stuff.
Spot on :y:
frankie
20th May 2010, 21:25
The rear bench weighs sweet FA compared to the likes of carpet and sound deadening...
thats why ive kept mine in with the cage...
KamRacing
20th May 2010, 21:44
The only way to shed real weight would be lightweight components, not removing things. Stuff like inner skins and stuff.
the only way is to get rid of everything that you physically don't need to drive the car. Anything non structural can be cut out :)
Tufty
20th May 2010, 22:07
the only way is to get rid of everything that you physically don't need to drive the car. Anything non structural can be cut out :)
thats what i am talking about!
Just get rid of all plastic trimmings! sound deadening, the lot!Then if your not happy, get the angle grinder out :)
however doing this is not always a good things, weight needs to be as even as possible in all corners really.....
streamlinecarbon.com
anyone vouch for them?
Citroen Saxo Trackday Interior Panel Set
* Extreme weight savings, whilst retaining a tidy look for the interior of your fast road, track or race car
Reechard
20th May 2010, 22:29
Ive heard nothing but good things about streamline carbon. They are pretty pricey though, but great quality from people I know with their parts.
Weight needs to be distrobuted equally. If you rip the rear interior out then it will unsettle the car and make oversteer more likely.
KamRacing
21st May 2010, 06:02
streamlinecarbon.com
nothing is lighter than carbon ;)
Plekumat
21st May 2010, 06:30
http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/5889/sdc16971.jpg
Just putted front seats
Maybe lightweight rims, bonnet, Plastic side windows, losing the spare tire etc..
Chr15
21st May 2010, 06:33
nothing is lighter than carbon ;)
rust, or just cut parts out and leave a hole ;)
Finchowned
21st May 2010, 07:03
Spare wheel weighs about 16.4Kg on it's own. With the jack, wheel nut remover and cage it was about 20Kg. Parcel shelf was about 2-3Kg.
Rear bench is around 15Kg. Sound deadning from the boot and under the carpet is about 6Kg. Rear wiper motor and arm, about 2Kg. VTS Engine Fresh air pump including pipes about 4Kg.
Bit of weight to be saved here and there. All helps but isn't goting to make as much as a difference as replacing panels with Carbon variants, lighter wheels, lighter exhaust system etc etc.
Probably saved about 25Kg from my VTS and still retained the rear bench and seat belts etc.
samueljonburgess
21st May 2010, 08:24
2-3kg parcel shelf :\ f*ckin hell
jsdvtr
21st May 2010, 16:43
I also wounder if there is anywhere you can get car weighed at?
wardesaxoboy
21st May 2010, 17:01
take the dead fat guy out the boot -100kg :)
Bickerton
21st May 2010, 17:44
take the dead fat guy out the boot -100kg :)
I'm not dead, i was merely sleeping
3cott
21st May 2010, 18:10
I also wounder if there is anywhere you can get car weighed at?Weigh brige ;)
Get rid of the carpet & all the other interior stuff, soundproof, spear wheel & carrier, perspex windows, fiberglass boot, bonnet, & doors if you want to go extreme, get rid of the wires you don't need, that's all i can think of off top of my head lol
jsdvtr
24th May 2010, 13:34
Do you need to get dash out to take the rubber mat from behind dash? Might have a go at removing that tommorrow and maybe a few other things :)
maddison_vts
24th May 2010, 14:17
I also wounder if there is anywhere you can get car weighed at?
at a weigh bridge, loads of scrap yards/breakers have them.
however, being a saxo you will have to make clear to them that you do not wish for them to crush it otherwise they will assume its scrap.:P
maddison_vts
24th May 2010, 14:24
another point on this is that why does everyone strip out the rear of the car for that 'track slag look' when all it does is upset the handling of the car?
in a straight line, yes it will be slightly and i mean only slightly quicker. (we're talking fractions of a second, which unless you drag race, does that matter?)
but around a circuit, unless you have properly adjusted the suspension and removed weight evenly, 'stripping' the car is of no benefit imo. all it does is make your car look like a shed and remove the little comfort you had in the first place.
top gear did a test not so long ago using a 207 gti (in the magazine)
they did a lap, stripped it immediately, not sure by how how much but i'm 99% sure it was more than 50kg, the stig then did another lap in the stripped out 207 and could not get a better lap time. he said the reason being was that removing weight from the rear had made the back end unbalanced and was losing too much speed on the corners.
keep that in mind when you all strip it out for that 'track slag' image.
Plekumat
24th May 2010, 15:18
You have a point
but
the who stripped the car, would put a new set of coilovers that lowers the center of gravity
and i think, it gives more grip than higher and heavier version of the same car..
I also think topgear fails because of using the same coils before stripping..
i suppose, Down force can be gained with proper spoiler
-shuggles-
24th May 2010, 15:29
the centre of gravity would also be raised so this would not help lap times:y:
cenas
24th May 2010, 15:30
I've removed the spare tyre, and the AC.
:) I have the lightweighted pulley from kamracing and the AC wasn't doing anything :)
jsdvtr
24th May 2010, 15:35
Well i will be moving the battery to rear of car, lighter bonnet, etc. I know how weight distribution works and that not to just remove it out from the back hence moving battery, lighter bonnet, rubber mat thing behind dash.
Krys_23
24th May 2010, 16:09
PAS - Get it ripped out.
Krys_23
24th May 2010, 16:14
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n299/Krystewart9/DSC00731.jpg
Krys_23
24th May 2010, 16:14
streamlinecarbon.com
anyone vouch for them?
Yep :y:
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n299/Krystewart9/DSC00714.jpg
Plekumat
25th May 2010, 19:45
Found it:
http://www.topgear.com/uk/photos/how-fat-is-your-car?imageNo=0
kevhoust
25th May 2010, 20:11
I have been weighing bits as i removed them from my car.
front seats 13kg each
rear seat back 8kg
rear bench 5kg
rear door cards 1.9kg each
spare wheel (185/55/14) 15kg
scissor jack 3kg
front door cards minus speakers 3kg
dash 8kg
sound deadening, carpet and head lining 28kg
sunroof 7kg
doors minus mirrors and door card 23kg each
tailgate minus the spoiler 15kg
bonnet with the sound deadening 13kg
hope this is helpful, will be weighing other stuff as i remove it so will add them in once i have the weights.
xcore
25th May 2010, 20:52
iv lost about 60ish kgs according to that^^ woop
Mochachino
25th May 2010, 21:16
I have been weighing bits as i removed them from my car.
front seats 13kg each
rear seat back 8kg
rear bench 5kg
rear door cards 1.9kg each
spare wheel (185/55/14) 15kg
scissor jack 3kg
front door cards minus speakers 3kg
dash 8kg
sound deadening, carpet and head lining 28kg
sunroof 7kg
doors minus mirrors and door card 23kg each
tailgate minus the spoiler 15kg
bonnet with the sound deadening 13kg
hope this is helpful, will be weighing other stuff as i remove it so will add them in once i have the weights.
What bonnet is that? Mk2 are lot heavier then mk1.
raunchz
25th May 2010, 21:17
I have been weighing bits as i removed them from my car.
front seats 13kg each
rear seat back 8kg
rear bench 5kg
rear door cards 1.9kg each
spare wheel (185/55/14) 15kg
scissor jack 3kg
front door cards minus speakers 3kg
dash 8kg
sound deadening, carpet and head lining 28kg
sunroof 7kg
doors minus mirrors and door card 23kg each
tailgate minus the spoiler 15kg
bonnet with the sound deadening 13kg
hope this is helpful, will be weighing other stuff as i remove it so will add them in once i have the weights.
I'd leave the doors on :P
Mochachino
25th May 2010, 21:21
I'd leave the doors on :P
haha me too!
You can get the fibreglass doors, but i dont think the saving in weight on them would be value for money irc theyre £300?
Also not sure on the structure regidity of them in a crash, FIA and all that, unless you got a decent cage..
col101
25th May 2010, 21:38
From the final page of the top gear article:
Stig's analysis suggested the problem was two-fold: first, that by tearing so much weight out of the back, we unbalanced the 207, losing a bit of grip, a problem exacerbated by the slippery conditions. Second, and more importantly, he didn't rate the wet performance of the tyres on our lightweight wheels - P-Zeroes, remember, which should have been better, grippier. Properly set-up, Stig reckoned, our 207 Superleggera could have saved three seconds a lap. But it wasn't set up properly. It wasn't set up at all. Just as power is nothing without control, so lightweightness is nothing without finesse. Motorsport is an exact science and we are amateurs. Crash diets don't work, kids.
Mochachino
25th May 2010, 21:42
They do work, when done properly :p
dave_1
25th May 2010, 22:07
Do you need to get dash out to take the rubber mat from behind dash? Might have a go at removing that tommorrow and maybe a few other things :)
did u ever find out the answer 2 this
adamskiTNR
25th May 2010, 22:09
I cut it all out. You can get every bit out apart from the patch behind the heater. But this stops it rattling anyway. All the stuff around the fusebox etc you can get out.
Lippy
26th May 2010, 22:20
Im liking this thread! all stuff ive been looking into!
Few additions... bit extreme but...
Remove low torqued bolts nuts and fixings in engine bay and replace for Aliminium ones,
cut off the brackets and fixing studs in the back of the car, rear sealbelts weigh quite a bit! Cut off the rear tow eye thingy, its pretty heavy :)
Alu gear knob... ? lol
Replace all bungs with carbon fibre, remove wheel arch liners (it'll rust like shit though)
BMC CDA is the lightest intake iirc?
Team Dynamics pro race alloys are 6.1 kgs each so pretty light!
I have to disagree with you Maddison though as they track slag look can be an amazing sight! I hated it at first until I saw 'Colin's stripped saxo! have a look if you havent already :)
Someone else post something else that can be removed ! im really interested in this thread!
frankie
26th May 2010, 22:21
only filling half the tank...
what a tank 40 litres?
20 litres about 20kg saved.
Chr15
26th May 2010, 22:40
passenger seat so no passenger!
loads there too ;)
frankie
26th May 2010, 22:43
a good shit and piss...
2kg saved there.
Lippy
26th May 2010, 22:50
I agree with the petrol idea! i only ever half fill now but iirc my nos bottle weighs about 3 stone lol
on a more serious note (taking a dump aside lol) the airbags etc weigh quite a bit! especially the ones in the sides of the mk2 vts's...
xcore
26th May 2010, 23:34
only filling half the tank...
what a tank 40 litres?
20 litres about 20kg saved.
im a poor student so only run with 10-15 quid in the tank at one time anyway!
25-30kg saved!
Saaamon
26th May 2010, 23:53
Well i will be moving the battery to rear of car, lighter bonnet, etc. I know how weight distribution works and that not to just remove it out from the back hence moving battery, lighter bonnet, rubber mat thing behind dash.
I'd leave the battery where it is to keep corner weights more even. Leave the spare wheel in and get a decent 30kg+ cage and that will help balance the car out after its been stripped. A fuel cell in the boot will put more weight on the axle. You'll notice a fibreglass bonnet, takes alot of weight off the front and in turn more weight ends up on the rear.
im a poor student so only run with 10-15 quid in the tank at one time anyway!
25-30kg saved!
Only 20Kg saved sorry.
Petrol weighs less that water remember. It's oil, and oil floats on water.... (.73kg/L)
A full tank only weighs 29Kg if it's only 40L
You also have to remember that despite a full tank adding that weight to the car half a tank would probably be just as detrimental in corners. When you turn in on a hard corner all the fuel would fly towards one side of the tank. Think of it like having a little man inside your car running at the sides when you turn - it could be the thing that causes you to lose grip if your just on the edge.
As mentioned earlier - loosing weight without a proper configuration is detrimental to the cars handling. Unless your going to get a smaller/baffled tank then only putting half a tank in might be worse
AlexB
27th May 2010, 06:14
also if your playing with the weight of the car relocating things helps
as the top gear article shows removing everything from the rear doesnt exactly help get he corner weights better and the car will behave better
battery in the boot washer bottle in the boot move fuse boxes internal to the car same wit ecu ect and you can pull the center of grip back by getting more equal weight on the tyres all round
imo (after heavily stripping 3 cars including taking an angle grinder to one) unless you then put weight back over the rear from the front your going to end up going backwards a lot as the car gets skittish if not set up right or on budget stuff
as a result of this lot ive concluded in my car to leave most of the interior in and replace body panels with fobregash and windows with polycarb relocate a few things and be happy
past that then really unless you only want to save 0.003 of a second a lap then imo theres no point unless you plan to fit a cage to put some weight back in
Regan
27th May 2010, 11:18
sunroof ! Thatl save some ! Get a non sunroof skin or carbonfiber roof ! Not cheap tho !
jsdvtr
27th May 2010, 12:36
Is it worth cutting the underside of bonnet or save and buy fibreglass or carbon?
The sunroof part of roof, the part which it sits in that drops down with hex screws in. Can they be undone so the flat with hole inside or can you not get rid of that part as its in way of my cage getting welded in properly atm, but if can do that i might get a carbon blank for it.
adamskiTNR
27th May 2010, 12:45
The saxmax at college has the hole filled in, so yes the sunroof frame can be removed
maddison_vts
27th May 2010, 12:48
I have to disagree with you Maddison though as they track slag look can be an amazing sight! I hated it at first until I saw 'Colin's stripped saxo! have a look if you havent already :)
i know what having it stripped out is like, mine was completely stripped out for about 18months, no carpet, doorcards, even no passenger seat. absolutely everything inside the car not needed was ditched short of the heater matrix.
it makes the car 'feel' quicker but its mostly in your head because of the increased amount of noise, when you put it to the test on track i was gaining 0.4 of a second over a 1/8 mile drag strip which is a lot on a drag strip but its nothing on the road.
more often than not having it stripped out looks scruffy, untidy, cheap and nasty. it can look good but if you're doing it for the image then thats gay.
:homme:
i put all the interior back in as its very rare that i track my car anymore, back when it was stripped it was on track every month so i saw a purpose in leaving it stripped but now i don't i'd rather have a little comfort and to be honest, with the power its pushing now, losing 20-30kg won't make much difference!
so in short, yeah it can look 'cool' but for an everyday car that doesn't get track used, no thank you.
webby
27th May 2010, 12:57
only a few trackdays a year leave it alone imo,
i have a couple booked and the only thing i will be doing is removing my sub and amp, not so it's lighter so i dont have to worry about it smashing free.
christ i think the car now is rattly and noisy i couldnt stand it stripped out as a daily drive that isnt seeing alot of track action whatever that maybe
Oh yeah, I'll dig out the sunroof from the shed and weigh it for everyone. It does weigh a fair bit. Especially how high it is in the car.
I used a road sign I found in the hedge to cover it. Makes a slight 'bong' when I shut the doors now!
Bound
27th May 2010, 13:21
the only way is to get rid of everything that you physically don't need to drive the car. Anything non structural can be cut out :)
Yeah, remove everything that is not legally required, compromises structural integrity, or mechanical necessity to drive the car. Everything else can go.
top gear did a test not so long ago using a 207 gti (in the magazine)
they did a lap, stripped it immediately, not sure by how how much but i'm 99% sure it was more than 50kg, the stig then did another lap in the stripped out 207 and could not get a better lap time. he said the reason being was that removing weight from the rear had made the back end unbalanced and was losing too much speed on the corners.
keep that in mind when you all strip it out for that 'track slag' image.
Yup, have tried to find this to reference it, and here it is;
http://www.topgear.com/UK/photos/how-fat-is-your-car?imageNo=0
This is very important reading to everyone who is thinking of stripping their cars.
kevhoust
27th May 2010, 16:07
What bonnet is that? Mk2 are lot heavier then mk1.
All these weights were taken from a mk1 vtr so not sure if the weights will differ slightly on the mk2 versions.
I'd leave the doors on :P
Maybe just the drivers door then and use polythene for passenger side since ill not be sitting there :p lol.
Lippy
27th May 2010, 19:07
interested to find out the weight of the sunroof!!! I want rid of that regardless as the fecking thing leaks lol.
If having a car that looks anything like Colin or Lewismo's is gay then... lol
I love Lewismo's car! Im not gonna strip it to that extent i dont think but I can lose 40Kg just by removing some of my stereo lol
maddison_vts
27th May 2010, 19:13
If having a car that looks anything like Colin or Lewismo's is gay then... lol
it is gay if it doesn't see a track mate!
trackjace
28th May 2010, 09:15
People who say it doesn't make a difference are talking sh*t.A mate's vtr fully stripped,dashboard out etc was overtaking a 106 gti on a very long straight on a trackday a few months ago.
maddison_vts
28th May 2010, 09:28
People who say it doesn't make a difference are talking sh*t.A mate's vtr fully stripped,dashboard out etc was overtaking a 106 gti on a very long straight on a trackday a few months ago.
the difference made is minimal, obviously it makes a difference but the benefit you get isn't worth the sacrifice of a car that you make.
trackjace
28th May 2010, 09:41
the difference made is minimal, obviously it makes a difference but the benefit you get isn't worth the sacrifice of a car that you make.
If you go on track a bit then yes it's worth it.Get where your coming from though
kevhoust
28th May 2010, 21:19
interested to find out the weight of the sunroof!!! I want rid of that regardless as the fecking thing leaks lol.
If having a car that looks anything like Colin or Lewismo's is gay then... lol
I love Lewismo's car! Im not gonna strip it to that extent i dont think but I can lose 40Kg just by removing some of my stereo lol
The sunroof weighs 7kg mate.
Lippy
28th May 2010, 23:15
The sunroof weighs 7kg mate.
is that the tubes, glass metal runners and everything? would have thought it would have been slightly more :(
Still I guess if you replace it with a flat roof then youve prob lost 6.5 kgs :)
kevhoust
29th May 2010, 14:57
is that the tubes, glass metal runners and everything? would have thought it would have been slightly more :(
Still I guess if you replace it with a flat roof then youve prob lost 6.5 kgs :)
That is just for this bit here
http://i728.photobucket.com/albums/ww287/kevhoust/DSC00163.jpg so removing the tubes and trimming down the metal that it sits into may save you a little more
mischief
29th May 2010, 17:08
http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/5889/sdc16971.jpg
Just putted front seats
Maybe lightweight rims, bonnet, Plastic side windows, losing the spare tire etc..
wheel weight dosnt really matter when the car is in motion. i read somthing in redline/max power about it. and the only difference was stopping distance and light weight wheels wernt so great.
Plekumat
29th May 2010, 23:05
Dunno
but my friend had 17'' chrommed wheels on his Bora, and he changed 'em to 16'' steelies
He said car can move quicker and consumption has lowered than before ..
xxo0pko0xx
30th May 2010, 01:58
Eight saving
fibreglass bonnet
single bucket
removing all interior Inc door cards, dask etc saves about 30kg I think
also lightweight exhaust systems help. Also spare wheel and bits
plastic windows and rims will help
if your serious also cut bumper bars. Maybe a single wiper conversion if your really serious put the driver on a diet :)
Lippy
30th May 2010, 09:32
Im 5 ft 4 and weigh 8 stone 5 at the moment and my fat content was measured recently at about 2% so that last one wont work for me lol
-Alex-
30th May 2010, 09:40
Im 5 ft 4 and weigh 8 stone 5 at the moment and my fat content was measured recently at about 2% so that last one wont work for me lol
Your a frickin midget!
But on note, doesn't relocating battery fubar the weight distribution anyway, due to the block being heavy on one side, and the light gearbox on the other, having the battery over the gearbox helps weight distro...does it not?
Saaamon
30th May 2010, 09:44
Your a frickin midget!
But on note, doesn't relocating battery fubar the weight distribution anyway, due to the block being heavy on one side, and the light gearbox on the other, having the battery over the gearbox helps weight distro...does it not?
Exactly what i said early but no fooker bothered to listen.:drink:
sexy_gt
30th May 2010, 11:03
wheel weight dosnt really matter when the car is in motion. i read somthing in redline/max power about it. and the only difference was stopping distance and light weight wheels wernt so great.
it does if you want to accelerate, turn or slow down. try a set of superleggeras 4.9 kilo in 15/7" wide.
not only will the brakes feel more effective (less momentum) but they will stay cooler (discs and pads will last longer) if you are clever with what rims you choose.
proper light wheels are where its at not all this team dynamic 6.1kilo crap :homme:
Plekumat
30th May 2010, 12:37
it does if you want to accelerate, turn or slow down. try a set of superleggeras 4.9 kilo in 15/7" wide.
not only will the brakes feel more effective (less momentum) but they will stay cooler (discs and pads will last longer) if you are clever with what rims you choose.
proper light wheels are where its at not all this team dynamic 6.1kilo crap :homme:
:y::y::clapping::clapping:
wheel weight dosnt really matter when the car is in motion. i read somthing in redline/max power about it. and the only difference was stopping distance and light weight wheels wernt so great.
Wheel weight makes a difference to suspension. You go over a bump and the suspensions gonna have to cope with this big heavy thing flailing about. Reducing the weight improves how the wheel sticks to the ground on a slightly bumpy surface.
If it didn't make a difference why would touring cars have magnesium alloy wheels?
Jackman
30th May 2010, 13:27
When I had my car corner weighted it was pretty well balanced been as I've never done sod all to aid it !
My battery is relocated into the boot ! And I have no issues !
My car was stripped when I bought it so I didn't have much choice!
I certainly want to go lighter! I know of a 205 who has taken a whole cutter to his inner rear to save weight lol !
chipeyedai
30th May 2010, 13:32
it didn't have any seats did it if i remember rightly
Dizzy
30th May 2010, 13:37
The best way to do it is to strip the car out, then go to a professional to get the car corner weighted. For perfectly neutral handling you want 50/50 weight distribution but id say its near on impossible with a saxo lol, so the person doing it would set it up as close to perfect as he could.
As for wheels, sprung mass being reduced means the suspension doesnt have to work as hard to keep the tyre in contact with the ground. You also get more responsive steering and faster acceleration. Although the 4 kilos you save putting lightweight wheels on, people often add on again by fitting bigger brakes, so this whole lightweight wheel thing isnt something you should loose sleep over.
willsy
30th May 2010, 15:15
doesn't relocating battery fubar the weight distribution anyway, due to the block being heavy on one side, and the light gearbox on the other, having the battery over the gearbox helps weight distro...does it not?
Usually it wont particularly help, but if someone is seriously thinking about weight distribution then there are way to get around it.
My battery is in the boot (passenger side)
And to compensate standard washer bottle has been removed from the drivers side with a lightweight one relocated to drivers rear
ECU tray has gone, and ECU is now in glovebox passenger side
With the TB's (lighter than standard inlet on drivers side) i dont need the charcoal canister so thats been removed from drivers side wing.
Alot can be done to balance things out if you have the time and patience to mess about moving bits around
jsdvtr
30th May 2010, 16:22
What did you buy to put a washer bottle in rear of car??
Looking at doing this :)
willsy
30th May 2010, 16:29
What did you buy to put a washer bottle in rear of car??
Looking at doing this :)
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Universal-12V-1-2LT-Windscreen-Washer-Pump-Water-Bottle-/180474405548?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a051ce2ac
Used this kit.
Got rid of rear washer jet, pulled washer line through the boot and down into the boot which connects onto the washer bottle. Then where it goes through into the inner wing join it to the front washer jet hose
For wiring cut off the plug in drivers wing, and run 2 cables straight through the car and onto the new washer pump.
Done
Much easier to do if you take the drivers wing off so you can get to the plug and route the wiring tidily.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v260/Willsy86/InteriorNew2012.jpg
You can use one of the circular rubber bungs from under the rear bench (just under fuel pump covers in this pic) to fill the hole in the engine bay left by removing the washer bottle.
geordie555
30th May 2010, 16:38
What bonnet is that? Mk2 are lot heavier then mk1.
ive had a shit load of cars and the mk2 saxo bonnet has to be the heaviest!
i wonder if there is a reason for it??
willsy
30th May 2010, 17:01
ive had a shit load of cars and the mk2 saxo bonnet has to be the heaviest!
i wonder if there is a reason for it??
Strangely always seems to be Mk2 bonnets that have a tendency of flying up and smashing the front of the roof and windscreen. Whether or not its a fault of some sorts or a case of not closing the bonnet properly
Remember there was a load that it happened to last year, was never a Mk1 bonnet though.
jsdvtr
30th May 2010, 17:02
ive had a shit load of cars and the mk2 saxo bonnet has to be the heaviest!
i wonder if there is a reason for it??
itl be because theres the bit where the grill is and is pretty thick unlike the
mk1 doesnt have.
jsdvtr
30th May 2010, 17:02
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Universal-12V-1-2LT-Windscreen-Washer-Pump-Water-Bottle-/180474405548?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a051ce2ac
Used this kit.
Got rid of rear washer jet, pulled washer line through the boot and down into the boot which connects onto the washer bottle. Then where it goes through into the inner wing join it to the front washer jet hose
For wiring cut off the plug in drivers wing, and run 2 cables straight through the car and onto the new washer pump.
Done
Much easier to do if you take the drivers wing off so you can get to the plug and route the wiring tidily.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v260/Willsy86/InteriorNew2012.jpg
You can use one of the circular rubber bungs from under the rear bench (just under fuel pump covers in this pic) to fill the hole in the engine bay left by removing the washer bottle.
Thanks, think i will order one later on :y:
adamskiTNR
30th May 2010, 17:06
The wheel thing. The calipers only effect unsprung mass and the discs effect unsprung and rotational mass. It's the rotational mass that will effect acceleration, braking and response. The heavier the wheel and the greater the diameter of the wheel the higher the gyroscopic forces will be acting on the wheel. If you hold a bike wheel for instance, spin it and then try to move it around it will fight the actions. This on a wheel has no effect in a straight line. This is why sometimes turning the wheel less is better than whacking it into full lock when you need to turn hard as the gyroscopic effect will massively increase the slip angle and try to scrub the wheel sideways losing traction.
That's why massive wheels are shit
Plekumat
30th May 2010, 17:44
I was tyrin to take the back wiper outbut it's not comin off..
How that wiper can be taken out ??
http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/1559/sdc17066.jpg (http://img227.imageshack.us/my.php?image=sdc17066.jpg)
http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/1559/sdc17066.jpg
(It's C2)
Plekumat
30th May 2010, 17:45
Sorry about double picture :
http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/3306/sdc17063.jpg
maddison_vts
30th May 2010, 18:08
to get the wiper arm away from the motor, try a ball joint splitter. should pull it right off!!!:cool:
johnnyg_vts
31st May 2010, 10:22
it does if you want to accelerate, turn or slow down. try a set of superleggeras 4.9 kilo in 15/7" wide.
not only will the brakes feel more effective (less momentum) but they will stay cooler (discs and pads will last longer) if you are clever with what rims you choose.
proper light wheels are where its at not all this team dynamic 6.1kilo crap :homme:
gaylord, my c5 'steels' weigh 4.8kg each.:homme:
a smudge over 30 quid too for 4, straight as a die they are.
sexy_gt
31st May 2010, 11:24
gaylord, my c5 'steels' weigh 4.8kg each.:homme:
a smudge over 30 quid too for 4, straight as a die they are.
when your brakes have cooked because they cant breathe you will change them :boxing:
raunchz
31st May 2010, 11:30
when your brakes have cooked because they cant breathe you will change them :boxing:
:hug: :clapping:
KamRacing
31st May 2010, 11:34
A bit of air ducting and some proper pads and then stick with the light wheels.
johnnyg_vts
31st May 2010, 11:53
A bit of air ducting and some proper pads and then stick with the light wheels.
:clapping::hug:
KamRacing
31st May 2010, 14:28
Well as people would be removing their foglights to save about a 1/4 kg then theres the perfect holes available.. :P
raunchz
31st May 2010, 14:43
might want to make sure you don't have the early c5 steels, they were recalled due to cracking around the wheel bolt holes
http://www.106rallyeforum.com/forum2008/showthread.php?t=42661&highlight=steel+recall
If you've got flat wheel bolts then worth trying to get them changed for ones with a tapered wheel bolt as these look to be the replacement C5 wheels
johnnyg_vts
31st May 2010, 14:59
thanks for the heads up, i knew there was a recall but didnt know the flat faced bolt versions of the c5 steels were the ones to avoid.
luckily mine are the tapered ones.
raunchz
31st May 2010, 15:03
thanks for the heads up, i knew there was a recall but didnt know the flat faced bolt versions of the c5 steels were the ones to avoid.
luckily mine are the tapered ones.
No problem - don't want to see anyone having an accident if parts fail.
How'd the c5's feel once fitted on the car? A lot better ?
jsdvtr
5th June 2010, 08:38
What sort of weight losing the pas pump and pipe, etc weight? Whats its like to drive with no pas?
maddison_vts
5th June 2010, 10:53
What sort of weight losing the pas pump and pipe, etc weight? Whats its like to drive with no pas?
don't know about the weight, its fine driving with no pas, only annoying thing is when you're tired and trying to move the car at less than 1mph.
Saaamon
6th June 2010, 01:36
don't know about the weight, its fine driving with no pas, only annoying thing is when you're tired and trying to move the car at less than 1mph.
Whats involved in getting rid? Is it just a case of a manual rack out of another saxo?
AndySAXO
6th June 2010, 08:38
yer have the get an non pas rack for it, and change it over, as a PAS rack with not PAS pump it will be rubbish as it will basiclly fight with you, be very hard to drive it well round a track with a PAS rack and no PAS pump!
jsdvtr
6th June 2010, 08:51
yer have the get an non pas rack for it, and change it over, as a PAS rack with not PAS pump it will be rubbish as it will basiclly fight with you, be very hard to drive it well round a track with a PAS rack and no PAS pump!
Have you driven saxo with no pas?
gavin_t
6th June 2010, 08:58
Just read through this whole thread and found it very interesting.
Was planning on stripping the saxo this summer and keeping it for a "toy" but after reading I am not so sure if its worth it now though
However I was looking at getting a spare set of wheels and some toyo 888's or simular for track use and those C5 wheels could be ideal. Dont look bad either
QUOTE from rallye forum
fitted the C5 steels today , along with a new set of tyres
C5 wheels with tyres , 4 of 6J15 + 195/45/15 = 48Kg (brand new tyres)
VTS mk2 alloys , 4 of 6J15 + 195/45/15 = 60kg (bald toyos)
winter grip tyres , 4 of 5.5J14 + 165/65/14 = 45kg (almost new winter grips)
old steel wheel from spare with no tyre 8kg
new C5 alloy with no tyre 4.5kg
so basically i have just saved 12Kg from unsprung mass , ans 3.5kg from the spare wheel
http://www.saxosportsclub.com/modules/coppermine/albums/userpics/11427/imgp1500a.jpg
Anyone got these that can comment on the brake preformance? ie do they get hotter quicker etc?
Also are standard vts mk2 alloys 6j too or are these narrower?
jsdvtr
6th June 2010, 09:07
if you going to be using it hard i.e. on track you want something thats more open to let hot air out and give abit of cool air into them otherwise they will over heat more than should and will end up with brakes failing, etc depending on pads and fluid.
I went to croft last year and a evo had to come into pits because its breaks where smoking lol.
AndySAXO
6th June 2010, 10:15
i driven a saxo with NON pas rack and it was good, i driven a saxo with a PAS rack with no pump and it was rubbish, it try fighting with you,
just taking the pump out is pointless as a PAS rack need the pump, as the fliud is in there and will be very very heavy, not the same as a NON PAS rack!
maddison_vts
6th June 2010, 12:04
i driven a saxo with NON pas rack and it was good, i driven a saxo with a PAS rack with no pump and it was rubbish, it try fighting with you,
just taking the pump out is pointless as a PAS rack need the pump, as the fliud is in there and will be very very heavy, not the same as a NON PAS rack!
its not as bad as you are making out! once you're moving it won't be so difficult. i drove mine for ages with just the relay pulled out of pas to stop it working, all the fluid still in there etc. (reaso for this was it was slowly leaking out of the one of the pipes when being used so i just disconnected it until i got the new part) it was only difficult to move when parking at less than a couple of mph but as i said, it only pissed me off if i was tired!
jsdvtr
6th June 2010, 12:11
i driven a saxo with NON pas rack and it was good, i driven a saxo with a PAS rack with no pump and it was rubbish, it try fighting with you,
just taking the pump out is pointless as a PAS rack need the pump, as the fliud is in there and will be very very heavy, not the same as a NON PAS rack!
Ye i know what you mean with fighting with it as that what mine does and really annoys me as it really makes the drive less enjoyable.
AndySAXO
6th June 2010, 12:16
its not as bad as you are making out! once you're moving it won't be so difficult. i drove mine for ages with just the relay pulled out of pas to stop it working, all the fluid still in there etc. (reaso for this was it was slowly leaking out of the one of the pipes when being used so i just disconnected it until i got the new part) it was only difficult to move when parking at less than a couple of mph but as i said, it only pissed me off if i was tired!
you must of been luck, as when your trying to throw it in to corner fast it very hard to steer in well as it fights you as your fighting the pump too if it not working!!
but a NON PAS rack was good though, but i like having PAS on my car i just seem to get to work better with PAS than without, just how i like it.
gavin_t
6th June 2010, 21:05
if you going to be using it hard i.e. on track you want something thats more open to let hot air out and give abit of cool air into them otherwise they will over heat more than should and will end up with brakes failing, etc depending on pads and fluid.
I went to croft last year and a evo had to come into pits because its breaks where smoking lol.
Ive currently got mk2 vts wheels and have thumped it around on many track days and its been fine and they arnt that much more vented :S no special brakes either just a set of gti-6's
Lippy
6th June 2010, 22:35
losing weight... I removed about 2kg's of mud and stones from inside my sideskirts!
You dont need it and its heavy... double bonus! Theres a piccy on my progress thread recently Il link it soon, pretty scary how much was in there :)
gavin_t
7th June 2010, 20:36
funny you should say that I took the inner arch our of my CTR to change a sidelight bulb and was greated my a hell of alot of crap!
Will be interesting to see what the VTS has gathered over its 10 years and 100k lol
Lippy
15th June 2010, 21:35
Oh... question for anyone who has seriously stripped their saxo!!!
In the drivers side rear wheel arch I think theres a pump and a bottle with screenwash in? fed from front tank for windscreen?
Has anyone removed this and what was involved? If im a mile away and its something to do with fuel filler please let me know! :)
(there is a pipe that comes through the bodywork upto the rubbers that go through inside the boot as far as I could feel) so might have drawn wrong conclusion)
Also wanted to know if anyone has removed the alarm brain and all the associated wiring?
If so did you remove the siren and the dash button that silences the alarm? Ive got a Cat 1 Sigma alarm so its surplus to requirement and I want it removed as redundant and also all the wires are cluttering up behind the dash, need the space poss...
jsdvtr
19th June 2010, 18:46
Has anyone cut the underside of a mk2 bonnet but what about the front bit where grill fits into would be where the extra weight is over the mk1.
Mochachino
20th June 2010, 14:35
Has anyone cut the underside of a mk2 bonnet but what about the front bit where grill fits into would be where the extra weight is over the mk1.
I think its more than just that lil extra bit at the front, the weight difference is alot imo! Would be best just getting a fibreglass one for £120 or w/e they are.
Lippy
20th June 2010, 22:02
i seriously wouldnt chop a mk2 bonnet at all!!! if you do then make sure you get some good bonnet pins.
fibreglass bonnet ftw imo!
jsdvtr
21st June 2010, 12:57
i seriously wouldnt chop a mk2 bonnet at all!!! if you do then make sure you get some good bonnet pins.
fibreglass bonnet ftw imo!
Well was just a thought but ive got aerocatches to go on but want a fibreglass one really.
piggy123
21st June 2010, 22:01
one way to save a lot of weight from the word go....
buy an S1 106 :D
timmythechef
21st June 2010, 22:05
said it before and il say it again, drive naked
jsdvtr
25th June 2010, 08:19
Which poly windows are best?? Peoples opinions.
Bickerton
25th June 2010, 13:21
Which poly windows are best?? Peoples opinions.
Best?
Very fluid term, will cost you thousands..
jsdvtr
25th June 2010, 13:22
Best?
Very fluid term, will cost you thousands..
Well i mean what are the ones people rate the most, etc and where to get them from.
iw_laurence
25th June 2010, 13:24
Plastic 4 performance cost me £220 for the rear three, fully moulded, oem mountings and black trims, very good quality and great service.
If my car doesnt sell on ebay it will be split for parts and the windows will definately be for sale.
jsdvtr
25th June 2010, 13:31
Plastic 4 performance cost me £220 for the rear three, fully moulded, oem mountings and black trims, very good quality and great service.
If my car doesnt sell on ebay it will be split for parts and the windows will definately be for sale.
When would you be spliting if it doesnt sell?
Bickerton
25th June 2010, 13:40
If you want then purely for weight reduction they can be cheap but look shite
PErsonal opinion is oem style rear 1/4 and boot glass thenfronts with slidy holes
Could also invest in a heated windscreen to rid yourself of that meddlesome heaterbox ;)
iw_laurence
25th June 2010, 13:43
When would you be spliting if it doesnt sell?
by the end of july
jsdvtr
25th June 2010, 13:45
by the end of july
Thats alrite because i should have abit of money by then to spend :)
What else you got i maybe interested in?
iw_laurence
25th June 2010, 13:55
brembos
fibreglass boot
fibreglass bonnet
1.4 xsi box
cobra monaco s seats + subframes
omp rear loop cage with door bars
omp corsica 330mm wheel + boss
supersprint race system
4-2-1 manifold (16v)
magic tree black ice air freshener
:)
iw_laurence
25th June 2010, 13:59
and ive got a flocked dash
flocked a pillars
r888's
13 row oil cooler
loads of stuff tbh
jsdvtr
25th June 2010, 15:34
Well if you do end up spliting could be interested in oil cooler, fibreylass bonnet, windows, supersprint and manifold maybe dash and boot. Just depends how much cash i can get together.
adamskiTNR
25th June 2010, 16:25
If your getting an oil cooler and you have no need for it, it is more of a pain than a benefit. Instead of keeping the oil cool it will just stop it heating up at all. Only really needed for turbo stuff. You can get ones that you can turn of with the turn of a valve though
jsdvtr
25th June 2010, 16:59
If your getting an oil cooler and you have no need for it, it is more of a pain than a benefit. Instead of keeping the oil cool it will just stop it heating up at all. Only really needed for turbo stuff. You can get ones that you can turn of with the turn of a valve though
Well dont the thermo sandwich plates do that? So keep the oil at the right temp?
What does polycarb windows weight compared to standard.
I would like to get car down to 800-850k but 800k prefered.
Lippy
25th June 2010, 20:02
im running an oil cooler, the temperature sits around 80 Degrees C as thats what my sandwich plate thermostat is set to.
It doesnt take any longer that I noticed to heat up the oil and doesnt over cool!
Apart from NOS and some exhaust mods and BMC im not a tuned car at all either... a good buy to keep the minerals in your oil for longer and increase the life of your engine.
AXracing
25th June 2010, 20:16
Full weld in cromo or t45 cage and start swiss cheesing everything always does a nice job. You can cut the entire front end of the car relatively easily. Dump the rear beam and rip out the hole boot floor. Then just drop in a live rear end with a alloy floor skin would shed you a tone of weight. Anything is possible. All depends what regulations your building the car to.
solvi
26th June 2010, 23:08
my trackday saxo was striped today ....there is so mutch things to waste kgs... i take off all inside isolacion plastics door cover etc ged rid off the heater and the heater motor...
later ill put something eletrical as heater ....
when i finish the job yhe car was higher......
i will put some fotos.....
i bought the vimesasport rollcage fia aproved ....
arrives next weak....~
jsdvtr
25th July 2010, 16:57
What would you need to get rid of to get car down to about 800kg? This figure i would be very happy with so will be looking at more weight loss in near future.
3cott
25th July 2010, 17:35
What dose it weigh now?
If you don't know take it to a public weigh bridge an get it weighed
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