View Full Version : Turbo parts list
Ross
30th September 2011, 15:29
Whilst trawling through my paypal transactions, I made a quick list of the parts I bought for my first turbo conversion. I thought I'd post them here as we seem to be getting a lot of "I want to turbo my saxo" threads recently and people might find it useful to know some of the costs involved. :)
So - without further ado:
Price Item Postage
-200 Citroen C2 1.6 VTR Engine (NFU) 50
-20.88 GT28RS Postage
-568.9 GT28RS
-205 Gizzmo MS-IBC Compact Electronic Boost Controller 6
-67.45 Magneti 3 Bar Map Sensor Ford Cosworth Escort Sierra 2.5
-134.97 CITROEN SAXO VTR / VTS 13 ROW ENGINE OIL COOLER KIT 9.99
-62 ALLOY FUEL SURGE TANK SWIRL POT RALLY RACE 7
-98.06 Bosch 044 Externally Mounted Fuel Pump 3
-149.99 Turbosmart Kompact Dual Port Blow Off / Dump Valve 25mm 0
-138.00 GENUINE TURBOSMART ULTRA GATE 38mm Wastegate 0
-40.99 VW AUDI FIAT SMART SAXO 4.0 BAR FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR 0
-39.25 CITROEN SAXO / PEUGEOT 106 DIESEL CAR RADIATOR NEW 8
-62 ALLOY FUEL SURGE TANK SWIRL POT RALLY RACE 7
-27.79 TWIN GAUGE PILLAR POD PEUGEOT 106, SAXO MRB102 A-POST 2.8
-10 Sump
-217.45 MSD Coil Pack 8.5mm Spark Plug Wires Zetec & SVT Focus 65.5
-25 2002 Citroen Picasso 1.6 8v Nearside Driveshaft 0
-36.75 2002 Citroen Picasso 1.6 8v Offside Driveshaft 11.75
-88.95 FRONT MOUNT UNIVERSAL INTERCOOLER CELICA GT4 GTO TURBO 9.95
-10.20 200SX CA18DET S13 SR20DET S14 T25 28 TURBO ELBOW GASKET 2
-19.94 HEAT WRAP EXHAUST MANIFOLD 10M + 10 CABLE TIES 30cm 3.95
-35.8 AN -8 AN8 45 Degree FastFlow StealthBlack Hose Fitting , AN -8 (AN8 AN 08) to M16x1.5 Metric Straight Adapter, AN -8 (AN8 AN 08) Male Steel Weld On Fitting / Bung 2.04
-7.9 14MM BANJO WITH 10MM TAIL KIT INC. BANJO BOLT & WASHERS 0
-4.95 GARRETT T2 T25 T28 TURBO FLANGE GASKET 0
-6.90 MANIFOLD STUDS M8 X 35MM PACK OF 20 1.95
-43.5 2 BATTERY & COPPER TUBE TERMINALS M8 STUD & PVC COVERS, RED 16mm 110 Amp BATTERY STARTER CABLE KIT CAR MARINE 4.8
-45.53 (2 1/4") 57mm ID BLUE 90° SILICONE ELBOW HOSE 150MM LEG, (2 1/4") 57mm ID BLUE 90° SILICONE ELBOW HOSE 150MM LEG 4.85
-71.18 Engine Wire & Hose Dressing Kit Conduit Wire Tidy Black, 57mm 2 1/4" Silicone Elbow 180 Degree Hose Silicon Blue, 57mm > 51mm Silicone 90 Degree Reducer Hose Step Blue, 57mm 2 1/4" Silicone Elbow 45 Degree Hose Silicon Blue 7.95
-14.99 Silicon Hose 45 degree Reducer 2.5"-2.25/63mm-57mm LONG 2
-61.38 76mm 3" OD Aluminium Alloy BOV T-Piece Pipe Hose, 25mm Rubber Lined Metal P Clips x 25, 76mm 3" Silicone Elbow 45 Degree Hose Silicon Blue, 25mm 1" Silicone 1 Metre Straight Hose Silicon Blue 7.95
-38.7 Hose Finisher Goodridge Type -6 Red to suit 8mm hose 2.7
-65.35 MotorSport 8mm Stainless Steel Braided Fuel Hose 2m 7.95
-4.91 19-16-19mm T PIECE CONNECTOR SILICONE HOSE JOINER FUEL 1.46
-48.6 Citroen Saxo VTS, VTR & + TU engine's Gear Linkage Rods 3.6
-58.5 Bullet Fuel Filter Carburettor or Injection 8mm outlets 4
-7.19 3mm Silicone Vac Hose Pipe Silicon BLUE 5 Metre 0.95
-21.49 2.5"x4" Exhaust Flexi Flex Joint Flexipipe 100mm x 63mm 4.99
-25 MAGMASHIELD HEAT SHIELD TAPE 40mm x 10m 0
-179.5 CITROEN PICASSO 2003 1.6 8V GEARBOX (30,000 MILES) 29.5
-9.9 MANIFOLD NUTS-BRASS METRIC M8 PACK OF 50 1.95
125 Mocal oil cooler inc braided hoses 15
80 Oil filter relocation kit 0
Total Postage Total
-3179.8 282.08
Obviously, the above list isn't exhaustive at all. It doesn't include some fairly major parts (like pistons, rods, manifold, honing, head gasket, oils, filters, etc) but gives a good indication as to the direction to go in.
It also DOES include some parts you DON'T need - for example, hose dressing overbraid etc.
Additional parts you may require too:
Price Item Postage
899.99 Saxo 1.6 16V Turbo Forged Pistons & Steel Con Rods Set 6.50
120 106 saxo BE4 gearbox mounts conversion turbo 10
45 BE conversion clutch cable 10
595 Omex 600 10
210 Omex loom 0
200 NEW 490cc PICO TURBO FUEL INJECTORS - IWP069 0
50 Alloy Header Tank for Diesel Rad 0
625 Gripper Diff 15
40 Head Gasket 10
18 Head Bolts 10
400 Custom Exhaust 0
60 K&N Air Filter 10
60 Alloy Boost pipes 15
457.83 Clutch 15
400 Custom Driveshafts, CV's and hubs machined
450 Mapping
Total Postage total
4629.99 101.50
Grand total of the above:
£7,809.37
This is NOT meant to be a definitive "this is everything you need" list - it's simply a starter for 10 to get you going. Pick and choose what you need from this list, use other parts, second hand components, or whatever you want. :)
If you have any questions about what any of the parts were used for, post and I'll try and remember.
I hope this is a useful place to start!
Cheers
mark1311
30th September 2011, 15:37
quick few questions... am just starting my boost build, will be cheapish build.
so far i have a t28 turbo, dp manifold external wastegate(onli becoz was a bargin), to run on the vtr with decom around 200atw, i plan to use 2" boost pipes,
little unsure on the fueling side of things? what would you reccomnd? also have omex600
Ross
30th September 2011, 15:41
490cc injectors are plenty (mini pico's if you're keeping the standard inlet) for 200atw and allow headroom for upgrades later. Get a 4bar FPR (look in the list above). Run an intank walboro 255, no swirl pot required just dont let your tank run down to the light and continue to hoon round corners. Standard fuel pipes etc will be fine. :)
-shuggles-
30th September 2011, 16:06
good little thread this :y:
will certainly help me :y:
scot-ish
30th September 2011, 16:11
2 gearboxes needed for a build? you fuck the first one opretty quickly?
Ross
30th September 2011, 16:23
2 gearboxes needed for a build? you fuck the first one opretty quickly?
Yeah. I did actually. And I've just fucked another... BE's are strong, but I don't have a lot of mechanical sympathy so get through them.
But the duplicate shouldn't be in the price list - I'll remove it. :)
mark1311
30th September 2011, 17:13
490cc injectors are plenty (mini pico's if you're keeping the standard inlet) for 200atw and allow headroom for upgrades later. Get a 4bar FPR (look in the list above). Run an intank walboro 255, no swirl pot required just dont let your tank run down to the light and continue to hoon round corners. Standard fuel pipes etc will be fine. :)
cheers dude, yer thats main reason i got the 28 instead of the 25 to alou more in the future, once i get bored will build a forged block and turn it right up :D, yer ideali wont to keep standard fuel rail for now at least keeps costs down, i have a load of braided fuel line at work must be about 20meters of the stuff so will change the lines for braided as its free lol.
my only worry is about the mk2 silver top head, duno if its worth fitting the black top head then can fit the rally inlet like blackie?
Gareth_R
30th September 2011, 17:29
Budget option lol
Turbo Kit - Mani, Turbo, Downpipe, Injectors, Spark Plug, Oil Feed, Oil Return, Boost Gauge, Intercooler, Pipework, air filter - £500
Rallye inlet and TB, including parts to modify it - £110
Powdercoating bits - £160
Service Parts - Headgasket, Water pump, Cambelt kit, Alt belt, rocker gasket, oil, ant freeze, oil filter - £150
Various paints etc for bay, engine etc - £100
Various nuts and bolts - £10
Various bits of aluminium for brackets - £10
Wiring and electrical stuff - £60
Header tank and rad setup, water hoses etc - £50
extra i/c pipe - £10
Gauges inc wideband and wiring - £230
boost controller - £12
Battery to boot box and wiring - £50
AX GTi engine inc all ancillaries and wiring - swapped for 16v parts
VTR Engine block - £20
Sump fitting welded - £10
FPR and injector clips - £30
Catch tank and hoses - £30
Oil cooler and filter relocation - £150
Dastek Unichip and Boost Module - £100
Clutch and Flywheel - £250
Fuel pump - £25
Dipstick - £11
Sealant - £12
Throttle cable - £15
Decomp Plate - £120
£2135
I prob made a couple of hundred selling off parts from the 16v, i've probably missed some stuff off the list, and some was unnecessary, and i still have to get it mapped
Ross
30th September 2011, 17:44
Good update Gareth :)
Gareth_R
30th September 2011, 18:01
Ta, I think threads like this show the extras involved. Too easy to think you've got everything then spend a fortune on more little odd bots and pieces
blackie_2k5
30th September 2011, 19:22
you dont need a blacktop head to run the rallye inlet mark, you can use an earlier silvertop head, then its direct "plug and play" rahter then converting to the old coilpack set up etc
the plastic one should be fine, and itll aid your spool up tbh, the rallye ones are quite large internally
e8_pqck
30th September 2011, 19:59
490cc injectors are plenty (mini pico's if you're keeping the standard inlet) for 200atw and allow headroom for upgrades later. Get a 4bar FPR (look in the list above). Run an intank walboro 255, no swirl pot required just dont let your tank run down to the light and continue to hoon round corners. Standard fuel pipes etc will be fine. :)
Megane R26 injectors are much better and cheaper - £165 brand new (for a full set of four) and have a shower pattern which atomises better rather than the pencil jet pico's. they fit straight into the standard 16v rail.
adzvtr
30th September 2011, 20:38
pico iwp189. 12hole injectors are just as good. better atomisation and all
ryanmt
30th September 2011, 21:16
pico iwp189. 12hole injectors are just as good. better atomisation and all
£84.00 vs £39 or £336 vs £160. Seems a bit insane to go for the picos imo!
As for mine
£50 T25 Turbo
£55 Custom made intercooler that somebody didnt use (ebay)
£200 AP Twin plate clutch and flywheel (ebay)
£360 Omex 600 (ebay)
£70 omex loom (ebay)
£200 turbo manifold (ebay)
£157 Megane 225 injectors (renault - new)
£free Downpipe flange
£10 Turbo hot pipe outlet from turbo
£53 decomp plate
£free map sensor (liberated from scrapyard)
£free 205 radiator
£free Header tank
£1155
Outstanding, I/C pipes, Some cheap air filter, Headgasket, Fuel pump maybe, plugs and mapping
£800 estimated
Oil:
£35 oil cooler (new ebay)
£35 oil thermostat (new ebay)
£free sump modification for oil return
Outstanding - pipes, takeoff, remote filter housing, filter, oil changes
£85.67 + pipes
Wideband
£35 Bosch wideband lambda sensor
£35 DIY Wideband controller with display
£3 wideband lambda sensor connector
£73
Guages:
£65 boost, oil pressure and oil temp w/pods (got cheap due to owner not being able to wire it and assumed it was broken)
£80 EGT w/pod
£145
Battery move:
£3 BMW cable from scrapyard
£5 caravan battery box
£free fittings (already had loads floating around)
£7 battery cut off switch
£15
Gearbox
£85 BE4
Outstanding, shafts, clutch cable etc etc
£150 estimated
Total cost £2600 give or take a hundred or so for 200-220bhp ATW / BE box (built not bought!!)
adzvtr
30th September 2011, 21:24
£84.00:y:;)
Ross
1st October 2011, 07:42
I looked into injector flow a while back, and chatted to a company who make them as matched sets for the high end market (out of my price range!)
The spray pattern isn't as important as the behaviour at very low pulse widths imo - when you run larger injectors it's harder (generally) to get them to idle because of the behaviour of them at the low pulse widths required for low idle flow rates.
Large (cheap) injectors (600+ cc for example) on a small engine like ours typically have pulse width's around the .5 to 1ms range at idle - exactly where you don't want it. You'd only need a rise of air temperature from being sat in traffic to have the ECU lower the pulsewidth further, potentially leaning the mixture to the point of stalling, or running very poorly for sure. This is compounded by using an ECU without a lambda input of course (like an Omex) as it doesn't even know it's leaning the mixture right out.
The better injectors will have more linear flow at low pulsewidths, and a much less defined kink before the "usable area". In summary, the minimum pulsewidth isn't that important - it's far more important to know the flow at that minimum width - something it's difficult to get out of a lot of manufacturers!
Anyway - I've got sidetracked. Sorry. Just my input on what I'd researched a few years ago.I myself will be changing to better injectors asap - the siemens deka 630cc ones i have right now are much too large for my setup.
blackie_2k5
1st October 2011, 19:13
anyone whos quick can get this dude to get them a set of 440cc/min injecotrs new for about £84
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BOSCH-injector-440cc-Fiat-Lancia-VW-turbo-Ford-NEW-/280740513351?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item415d704647#ht_783wt_1270
theres only 6 left...so be quick ;)
e8_pqck
1st October 2011, 19:31
anyone whos quick can get this dude to get them a set of 440cc/min injecotrs new for about £84
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BOSCH-injector-440cc-Fiat-Lancia-VW-turbo-Ford-NEW-/280740513351?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item415d704647#ht_783wt_1270
theres only 6 left...so be quick ;)
they wont fit the standard rail, i tried these:
Lucas 380cc/min at 3bar pressure with an 16.5 to 18ohms impedance from a rover - i think they are the same.
http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr251/e8_pack/Image0324.jpg
http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr251/e8_pack/Image0382.jpg
http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr251/e8_pack/Image0381.jpg
jsdvtr
1st October 2011, 19:33
My turbo list so far-
Dp downpipe £225
Siemens injectors £200
Forge intercooler £85
BOV £15
Dp oil feed £20
Oil return £40
T28 turbo £140
Dp manifold- (ordered but not bought yet but around the £800 mark)
Baffled sump £60
Boost guage £5
2.25 boost pipes £25
Omex 600 £500
Air filter £13
Silicone hoses £25, not got all yet
Ford coilpack £15
Be gearlinkages £30
Walbro fuel pump £40
Helix 6 paddle clutch £70
Spark plugs £5
Oil cooler £70
Small oil filter £4.50
2.5 bar map sensor £2.50
Thats £2,390 and thats just since march/april time ive been buying stuff and stuff i can think off as probably got a few more bits.
Got loads more to buy like external wastegate, gaskets, decomp, BE box etc...
blackie_2k5
1st October 2011, 19:35
@ e8
im running them on my vtr...direct fit bar slight rail mod, and dannygti is running them on his 16v with a slight mod :y:
coleman258
1st October 2011, 19:35
@ e8
im running them on my vtr...direct fit bar slight rail mod, and dannygti is running them on his 16v with a slight mod :y:
What is the slight mod needed to fit them?
e8_pqck
1st October 2011, 19:36
£84.00 vs £39 or £336 vs £160. Seems a bit insane to go for the picos imo!
As for mine
£50 T25 Turbo
£55 Custom made intercooler that somebody didnt use (ebay)
£200 AP Twin plate clutch and flywheel (ebay)
£360 Omex 600 (ebay)
£70 omex loom (ebay)
£200 turbo manifold (ebay)
£157 Megane 225 injectors (renault - new)
£free Downpipe flange
£10 Turbo hot pipe outlet from turbo
£53 decomp plate
£free map sensor (liberated from scrapyard)
£free 205 radiator
£free Header tank
£1155
Outstanding, I/C pipes, Some cheap air filter, Headgasket, Fuel pump maybe, plugs and mapping
£800 estimated
Oil:
£35 oil cooler (new ebay)
£35 oil thermostat (new ebay)
£free sump modification for oil return
Outstanding - pipes, takeoff, remote filter housing, filter, oil changes
£85.67 + pipes
Wideband
£35 Bosch wideband lambda sensor
£35 DIY Wideband controller with display
£3 wideband lambda sensor connector
£73
Guages:
£65 boost, oil pressure and oil temp w/pods (got cheap due to owner not being able to wire it and assumed it was broken)
£80 EGT w/pod
£145
Battery move:
£3 BMW cable from scrapyard
£5 caravan battery box
£free fittings (already had loads floating around)
£7 battery cut off switch
£15
Gearbox
£85 BE4
Outstanding, shafts, clutch cable etc etc
£150 estimated
Total cost £2600 give or take a hundred or so for 200-220bhp ATW / BE box (built not bought!!)
+quaife.. :-)
blackie_2k5
1st October 2011, 19:39
on the 8v you remove the brass bush in the rail, and slit/drill/cut the plastic mounting bracket so the hole is slightly higher for the fixing bolt, as on the 8v these^^^ are slighly longer then standard injectors..
on the 16v id imagine you may have to open the inlet slighty to house this size as theyre a bit fatter, and maybe the above with the hole...or make some brackets to help you fit,
im sure if danny sees this he'll help out or you could pm him.. as ive not tried fitting them to 16v but prettys sure theyll be a little fatter and longer?
e8_pqck
1st October 2011, 19:43
must need to remove some plastic - they were too tall. hence why i then went:
A set of the megane RS225 injectors from worldofparts.
http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr251/e8_pack/Image0431.jpg
http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr251/e8_pack/Image0441.jpg
These short type will fit as a direct replacement and they have the standard 14mm o-rings.
http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr251/e8_pack/Image0453.jpg
no modding!
adzvtr
1st October 2011, 19:44
wat cc are these^^^^^^
blackie_2k5
1st October 2011, 19:47
they look good tbh mate :D
these are a cheaper alternative still.... worth bookmarking the seller as he gets more in from time to time, just got these back in as davo has just bought some, cant find better for 8v tbh
danny sais he is/was running them...so for the 16v they are still a cheap option if willing to make them fit...they should supply enough for 300bhp give or take
but as said, for 8v you wont find cheaper for that size..thats an awesome price for 4 NEW 440cc injecotrs :y:
blackie_2k5
1st October 2011, 19:48
wat cc are these^^^^^^
if theyre 225 injecotrs youll be pushing your luck on them with 250bhp+..
RS lads normally uprate them then iirc?
after a little search i belive theyre 390cc? but e8 may correct me..
so anything over 265ish bhp would probs be pretty high duty?..
e8_pqck
1st October 2011, 19:56
if theyre 225 injecotrs youll be pushing your luck on them with 250bhp+..
RS lads normally uprate them then iirc?
after a little search i belive theyre 390cc? but e8 may correct me..
so anything over 265ish bhp would probs be pretty high duty?..
yes, 390cc i believe, more than enough for 250bhp.
225 is the BHP of the car they were made for, the Megane 225 or R26
e8_pqck
1st October 2011, 19:58
here's an old spreadsheet i have dug out:
Compbrake Quickshift 38
Group N Gear Linkages 45
VTS Quaif Gearbox 300
VTR 3.5 Bar FPR 15
Walboro Fuel pump 70
306 Gti-6 Thermostat 82 degrees 11
Poly Bush Engine Mount 28
Hydra Nemesis ECU 300
Remap 499
Oil Filter 4
Motul Engine Oil 5w40 50
Motul Gearbox Oil 75w90 27
Red Coolant 22
Megane RS Injectors 165
Helix Clutch 180
Clutch Replating 70
Manifold 40
Garrett T25 Turbo 100
Turbo Downpipe 10
T25 Gasket 5
Decomp Plate 25
Headgaskets 2x1.77mm 80
Headgasket Bolts 21
Head Skim 25
Head Polish 120
Radiator 50
Intercooler pipes 40
Intercooler 20
Modified Sump 10
Oil Feed Pipe 20
Oil Return Pipe 10
Oil Tee Piece 12
Boost Gauge 15
Oil Pressure Gauge 16
Front Wishbone Polybushes 18
NGK BCR8ES Spark Plugs 8.6
2 Bar Map Sensor 26
10mm Banjo Bolts 10
10mm Pipework and fittings 15
Total 2520.6
alot of the parts were picked up cheap off the bay. I bought the decomp off somone on here and it never turned up, but it is still in the cost as it cost me! hence 2 x 1.77mm HG aswell!
Ross
1st October 2011, 22:04
yes, 390cc i believe, more than enough for 250bhp.
225 is the BHP of the car they were made for, the Megane 225 or R26
Especially when you consider that's 390cc at 3bar. Presumably you'll run 4bar, so they'll be closer to 500cc/min. Plenty. :)
ryanmt
1st October 2011, 23:24
Especially when you consider that's 390cc at 3bar. Presumably you'll run 4bar, so they'll be closer to 500cc/min. Plenty. :)
at 4 bar they run closer to 450cc (4.5 bar = 480cc)
For a comfortable 250bhp you want closer to 500-550cc to leave you a bit of breathing room (est 80% duty). Still the megane injectors are cheap and proven to do the job so are a good buy for the money
Also just to correct your previous post the omex 600 supports a standard narrowband lambda input and some kind of wideband input (although its not very good). A narrow band is all the ecu really needs anyway so does the job just fine.
Ross
2nd October 2011, 00:00
Didn't actually crunch the flow for the injectors just guessed - forgive the miscalculation!
I know the omex supports narrowband (I have it myself from the lc1) but most people I know don't use it at all on omex, which was more my point. Not just boosted stuff here on the saxo/106 world but a lot of others seem to not use it for some reason (several caterham owners I know for example) - not sure on the reasons (although some might argue correctly mapped it doesn't need it I guess!)
cleetus
15th December 2011, 14:15
might aswell put mine up also done on a budget, not finished yet as im off work sick. also wanted to add i would be running the internal wastegate but there were complications of the actuator hitting the block so was removed and the wastegate bolted shut.
t25 turbo : free
intercooler and pipework + 491cc injectors : 150
spoox motorsport track engine mounts : 190
mhm tuning turbo manifold : 200
custon oil feed + restrictor + filter : 115
DP engineering de-comp plate + head gaskets : 255
mocal oil cooler : 90
diesel header tank : 5.00
Diesel rad : 32
been quoted for exhaust : 300
turbo to intercooler reducer : 7.00
various gaskets : 7.00
external wastegate : 89
predator ecu with internal map sensor : 400
manual boost controller :12
powdercoated rocker covers : free
powder coated caliper carriers : free
Hid kit : free
sump with oil return : 40
headbolts : 15
valve stem oil seals : 10
ARP rod bolts : 112
clutch cable : 17.00
accelerator cable : 15
vaccuum for map sensor actuator etc : 5.00
turbo water feeds and connectors : 22
mapping will be 80
luckily i can do all the work myself bar the mapping. im a mechanic plus i have my own workshop. this is just a quick list of everything needed bar antifreeze oil brake fluid etc. and it may not even be complete 2,161 not alot of money i dont think for the performance and fun factor you end up with. all this is being done to a 1993 106 xsi with a gti engine.
http://www.106owners.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?205275-106-Xsi-16v-Turbo&highlight= - link
also has gti suspension and brakes. had the engine out again while im doing all this to get rid of any rust and respray the engine bay, steering rack suspension etc basically the whole front end has been cleaned and painted. once its on the road i will do the underneath of the car, rear beam and then interior :)
-shuggles-
15th December 2011, 18:50
might sound stupid but.. what is the need for header tanks? Slowly building up all the parts i need for boost (8valve) :y:
rorz_vts
15th December 2011, 19:35
might sound stupid but.. what is the need for header tanks? Slowly building up all the parts i need for boost (8valve) :y:
header tanks are only used only when radiators that don't have the water spout thing, I'm not sure what the befits are for having them separate
-shuggles-
15th December 2011, 20:43
header tanks are only used only when radiators that don't have the water spout thing, I'm not sure what the befits are for having them separate
so my vtr rad will be ok on it's own then? Just making sure before I go boost I have everything needed for something basic and fun :y: I ment to ask you when I was texting you if you have any bigger oem brakes?
blackie_2k5
15th December 2011, 21:03
ppl run a seperate header when going for a diff RAD... the inbuilt one takes up space and means the rad cant be moved further forward on the slam panel to accomodate for turbo/mani or intercooler
if your running the R/S inbuilt one you wont need header, if opting for another youll obvs need one :)
i was lucky enough mine just squeezes in with stock set up due to the way it was all made, one less cost for me :D
-shuggles-
15th December 2011, 21:14
ppl run a seperate header when going for a diff RAD... the inbuilt one takes up space and means the rad cant be moved further forward on the slam panel to accomodate for turbo/mani or intercooler
if your running the R/S inbuilt one you wont need header, if opting for another youll obvs need one :)
i was lucky enough mine just squeezes in with stock set up due to the way it was all made, one less cost for me :D
saweet :y: Just need to sort injectors out now then book in for some mapping :y: my turbo should fit in fine on a standard mani,adapted downpipe and a tiny turbo that makes the altenator look big :y:
stevo1600
15th December 2011, 22:02
Does the diesel rad provide better cooling? Does your car read high temps on standard vtr rad blackie? Or is it ok...
blackie_2k5
15th December 2011, 22:10
ive got the newer R rad(3 plug), same as the S rad, which is bigger, mines fine,
yours should ideally be replaced as the old R rad is REALLY small and not ideal on a turbo set up
in terms of size i think the diesel rad is bigger then the old R rad, but its mainly a function item tbh...it can be moved forward and the remote header means theres less shit in the way at the front :)
also, ive sorted where your injectors are, they should be with you by monday ;)
stevo1600
15th December 2011, 22:14
Ah good lad :y: cheer mate
Yea my rad is very small. I'll just upgrade to the diesel rad then, as my temps rose quite high on boost tbh. Plus I'll struggle to get the gt25 in I think with the rad so close.
blackie_2k5
15th December 2011, 22:18
yeah the older one i had on my amazon, and few others i had, theyre much smaller and the rad itslef is an older design,
best off really :)
jsdvtr
17th January 2012, 20:35
What other radiators can be used for boost, was looking at going for diesel but thinking may opt for something abit better in terms of temperature like a alloy one.
Have had a look on ebay too at universal ones and i dont really fancy paying the price of gmc or atspeed ones.
simmo
17th January 2012, 21:48
This thread is just what we needed. Lots of good info again from ross and co.
I feel like i cheated now :(
Ross
17th January 2012, 23:36
What other radiators can be used for boost, was looking at going for diesel but thinking may opt for something abit better in terms of temperature like a alloy one.
Have had a look on ebay too at universal ones and i dont really fancy paying the price of gmc or atspeed ones.
For road use the diesel rad is absolutely perfect. No reason to have anything else tbh. If you run a large intercooler that blocks the whole rad and use the car on the track every weekend then perhaps a different story, but with the normal universal "gt3" type intercoolers you'll be fine. Save your money for something more important - like decent injectors or put it towards headwork :)
Ps - thanks ollie. Not cheating at all mate - always happy to give my experiences where I can! Next year will be the 20th anniversary for me having my first modified turbo car and I'm still learning plenty myself. :)
darrenh84
18th January 2012, 00:02
how much do u lot spend on your cars.....i sometimes wonder why ppl spend so much money on an object to get you around i like mine to look nice dont get me wrong but lots of people o.t.t
Ross
18th January 2012, 00:04
You view it as an object to get you around. I view it as a hobby - its not my main form of transport. I don't smoke, drink or do drugs do my spare cash goes into my hobby(s) :)
jsdvtr
18th January 2012, 06:22
For road use the diesel rad is absolutely perfect. No reason to have anything else tbh. If you run a large intercooler that blocks the whole rad and use the car on the track every weekend then perhaps a different story, but with the normal universal "gt3" type intercoolers you'll be fine. Save your money for something more important - like decent injectors or put it towards headwork :)
Ps - thanks ollie. Not cheating at all mate - always happy to give my experiences where I can! Next year will be the 20th anniversary for me having my first modified turbo car and I'm still learning plenty myself. :)
I thought it may run abit too hot. The intercooler im going to be using is only a small one height-wise but its a good one made by forge.
ive got your old injectors ross and the engine i have got already has headwork. Main things left really is BE parts, Helix clutch cover, New turbo, Sort engine loom and then just a few little bits left to get and sort.
Ross
18th January 2012, 08:23
Nah it'll be fine with the derv rad dude - both me and Titch ran 300hp on one never an issue :) Have you decided on a clutch then? My first clutch was a mistake - same as Titch's - slips with any real power shown to it unfortunately. John @ GMC came through with a good idea tho and we've not had problem since - speak to him about that if you've not pulled the trigger yet :)
BE boxes are like service items for me for some reason lol - lack of any mechanical sympathy is killing them lol. Lucky they're cheap!
Good luck man - its all good fun eh :)
jsdvtr
18th January 2012, 11:42
Nah it'll be fine with the derv rad dude - both me and Titch ran 300hp on one never an issue :) Have you decided on a clutch then? My first clutch was a mistake - same as Titch's - slips with any real power shown to it unfortunately. John @ GMC came through with a good idea tho and we've not had problem since - speak to him about that if you've not pulled the trigger yet :)
BE boxes are like service items for me for some reason lol - lack of any mechanical sympathy is killing them lol. Lucky they're cheap!
Good luck man - its all good fun eh :)
I will just stick with a diesel rad then.
Ive got a 6 paddle helix but just need a cover. BE box i already have, just need to sort all other parts out like mounts, shafts, etc.
Whats the clutch you are running? I thought u had a helix 6 paddle.
Ross
18th January 2012, 14:13
I will just stick with a diesel rad then.
Ive got a 6 paddle helix but just need a cover. BE box i already have, just need to sort all other parts out like mounts, shafts, etc.
Whats the clutch you are running? I thought u had a helix 6 paddle.
RE your mounts - did me or titch not sort yo ua set out if you're looking for a cheap set? We've still got some in stock I think (need to check) and they work out at about £150 all in. I've just sold my old shafts unfortunately or i'd offer you those - someone got a steal as I parted with them for £350 - they cost £600 to make up... :S
The original (atspeed suggested) 184mm 6 paddle clutch (this: http://atspeedracing.co.uk/products/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=27_28_47&products_id=159) despite what they claim cannot support 300ft/lb. :bs: Helix themselves will tell you that. It was fine for low boost and low torque but over 250ft/lb it slipped. John @ GMC has had the same experience.
John developed a single paddle solution for me - I now run a 200mm 6 paddle lug drive (obviously you can only do this in a BE box): http://www.gmcmotorsport.co.uk/clutch-transmission/clutches/helix/200mm-lug-drive/prod_619.html - it's taken everything we can throw at it. I was the first to try it so thankfully it worked, but a few people now run them when they don't want the noise of the twin plate.
jsdvtr
18th January 2012, 15:25
RE your mounts - did me or titch not sort yo ua set out if you're looking for a cheap set? We've still got some in stock I think (need to check) and they work out at about £150 all in. I've just sold my old shafts unfortunately or i'd offer you those - someone got a steal as I parted with them for £350 - they cost £600 to make up... :S
The original (atspeed suggested) 184mm 6 paddle clutch (this: http://atspeedracing.co.uk/products/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=27_28_47&products_id=159) despite what they claim cannot support 300ft/lb. :bs: Helix themselves will tell you that. It was fine for low boost and low torque but over 250ft/lb it slipped. John @ GMC has had the same experience.
John developed a single paddle solution for me - I now run a 200mm 6 paddle lug drive (obviously you can only do this in a BE box): http://www.gmcmotorsport.co.uk/clutch-transmission/clutches/helix/200mm-lug-drive/prod_619.html - it's taken everything we can throw at it. I was the first to try it so thankfully it worked, but a few people now run them when they don't want the noise of the twin plate.
I aint got the funds atm unfortunately to be buying lots of parts, Im looking into making mounts myself, using standard BE shafts modified to suit.
Im guessing they wont be as hard as a twin plate but just got the better cover for the extra torque. Can you buy the covers on there own?
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