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View Full Version : Engine swap 1.1 - 1.1 mk1


christoph
17th April 2012, 16:51
Hi all sorry if this is posted else where buti can't seem to find a thread explaining what exactly you need to doin order to swap the engines over. At the moment I have a t reg mk1 with a single plug with 132k on it. It's now causing me more and more hassle and I've only had it for about 5 months, pretty disappointed tbh saved for ages to get my first motor, which turned out to be a dog. The exterior on the other hand is without fault, which is why I think it's best for me to just swap engines. I have acces to a workshop and engine hoist/jack whatever you want to call it, but I've never got anywhere close to taking a engine out and swapping it. I'm fairly mechanically minded and can do the basics we'll, so I think with some time, patience and most important guidance I could achieve this. So if anyone who's done this before or knows what there talking about just give me a few checks and a small run through of what to do that would be appreciated. So far I understand I need to unplug the ecu, red pipes and fuel lines? Where ever they are, but that's as far as it goes. Any help would be great :) ps: sorry for the long winded thread lol

BritishMonkey
18th April 2012, 13:18
Im not going tio give u a full on walkthrough as it will take hours. Your best bet is to look on youtube how to do it. All engines are pretty generic on how they are changed.

If it was me i would put a new clutch and timing belt/water pump on while im in there (unless its relatively new)

Anything in specific you need to know just drop me a pm (Y)

D4MJT
18th April 2012, 13:40
I've done an engine change on a 1.0 SPi mate. I chose to remove the engine and gearbox as one, and split when they were out the bay.

As a rough guide, you're looking at:

1) Remove the battery and drain the coolant system
2) Disconnect upper and lower radiator hoses
3) Disconnect driveshafts from the gearbox. You can either knock the bottom balljoints loose and pull the shafts from the box, and tie them up out the way, or you can undo them from the hubs and then remove them entirely. I found this way easier, as I chose to drop the engine out the bottom and lift the car over it.
4) Disconnect the loom in the engine bay, if it's single plug it's fairly easy iirc, just the earth strap from the alternator and the single plug part, then a few stragglers?
5)Disconnect the exhaust, you can either remove the manifold, or if its stubborn, disconnect it at the downpipe join under the car and remove it later.
6) Disconnect the fuel line and pop it out the way
7) Pop the car on axle stands if it isn't already, and remove the lower gearbox mount.
8) You should have more forward/backward sway movement of the engine now it's on 2 mounts, so it'll be easier to disconnect the gear linkage rods, do these next and tape them to the firewall so they don't get trapped / bent
9) Put a sheet of steel or cardboard or something in front of the radiator to stop it getting nicked when you drop the engine. I can't remember if the fan is in front of the radiator or behind, if it's behind I removed it earlier.
10) Get your hoist up front and strap the engine too it, jack it up to support the engine, then undo the other 2 mounts, gearbox and drivers side.
11) Lower the engine out gently.
12) I used engine strap hoists round the bottom arm mounts I think to strap the shell to the engine hoist, then I jacked it up further so I could pull the engine out underneath.


There's probably some bits I've missed, but that should get you going. It's pretty easy to do once you get cracking, just get stuck in mate, if I can do it you can.:cool:

D4MJT
18th April 2012, 13:43
The point to mention is that most of the plugs are colour coded so you can't really mix them up, and if you have one, remember the inertia switch.

It's easy to lash everything back in fine, having knocked this at some point, then spend ages scratching your head as to why it's not firing up.