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View Full Version : Important! : Water Pissing Out Of Radiator


MickyWelsh172
22nd April 2012, 15:03
Just been on a small 17 mile trip, and when ive got home there's water pissing all over the drive, had a look under the bonnet and its the radiator.

Me dad reckons this is an easy job to change ourselves, but im just wondering what i'd need to go about doing to get a vts twin fan set-up?

Do i literally just buy a Radiator for a vts and straight direct fit, or is there more to it?

Thanks

EDIT: Also, is This (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSENS-RADIATOR-FIT-CITROEN-SAXO-96-03-PEUGEOT-106-MKII-96-03-/140729809064?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20c42678a8#ht_500wt_1180) the best radiator to get, and what would i need to do to add a twin fan?

Thanks again.

sam_16v
22nd April 2012, 15:12
VTS rad uses a shorter bottom hose

MickyWelsh172
22nd April 2012, 15:14
So can i just get the Nissens radiator then fit Twin Fans to the front of the radiator after?

Thanks

sam_16v
22nd April 2012, 16:52
And a VTS bottom hose :)

Wee_monkey1987
23rd April 2012, 09:34
the secondary fan is only for air con systems its not needed if you don't have air con, and yeh it a simple change,

1) just remove the intake up to the airbox,
2) drain the coolant, the rad has a black drain plug at the bottom of it looks identical to the bleed nipple on the rad at the top
3) disconnect the lower and upper hoses
4) replace the lower hose with shorter one as stated by others ^^
5) unclip the two metal spring loaded supports and lift the rad out done

before you put the new rad in check the two bottom rubber o-rings are still on the chassis rad location holes and refit simple

coolant side follow this:

With the coolant side when i did mine i created a header tank using an old 2litre milk bottle put it on top of the rad refill point, opened all three bleeding screws, added 2litres of coolant, started it up and kept it running whilst topping up, i found though i had to keep completely unscrewing the first bleed nipple to remove any air lock, if you leave it on loose it wouldn't remove it and you'll notice the coolant starts backing up into the header tank.

Onces coolant literally pours freely from the first nip tighten it and repeat for the next two nipples,

On the last nipple located on the rad i found you have to unscrew and pull the plastic screw out, after another two minutes fan switch starts to cut in!

Christian555
23rd April 2012, 09:56
You can wire up a switch for the 2nd fan aswell.