Turbo oil feed problem

[clubbz]

Currently have a turbo set up on my car its and adapated manifold with a ko3 turbo and i ran and oil feed out where the pressure sensor should be i used a t piece to try keep the sensor in but it was to long to get that in to so i had to blank the t piece of at the end but still had my oil feed in and i have a feeling it pushed to much oil out and have blown the seals as it seems it might be escaping out the exhaust so i got stevo1600 to come take a look and he thinks the same he said hes heard that people but washers in the line somewhere to lower the pressure?
Just wondering if anyone can clear this up cheers guys

[blackie_2k5]

Your supposed to use a banjo to restrict the oil pressure to the correct pressure.. Or you'll fuck the seals as you have

Try getting the correct pressure then see if it's still leaking, you may be lucky, but probs need a rebuild

[clubbz]

Your supposed to use a banjo to restrict the oil pressure to the correct pressure.. Or you'll fuck the seals as you have

Try getting the correct pressure then see if it's still leaking, you may be lucky, but probs need a rebuild

Ahhh right ok :y: Well im getting a oil cooler of stevo tonight as he said thats a lower pressure point and ran fine on his so i will try that instead of trying to mess with pressures... also blackie i seem to be getting really bad boost spike sometimes itll hold at 0.4 0.5 which is what i want but then ill change gear press the accelerator and itll spike up past that way past any idea?

[blackie_2k5]

It's not a case of messing with pressures, it's a case of finding the correct pressure so the your turbo and engine Isnt starved, or isn't force fed, it's the difference between running fine and ending needing to spend lots of money

What boost controller are you using anyhow is it connected?

[clubbz]

It's not a case of messing with pressures, it's a case of finding the correct pressure so the your turbo and engine Isnt starved, or isn't force fed, it's the difference between running fine and ending needing to spend lots of money

What boost controller are you using anyhow is it connected?


How do i know how much pressure is needed ?
And ive tried with and without one Im using a bleed valve one =\ which stevo did say was crap but then we ran the house from the housing to the top nipple then the bottom nipple to the inlet and it still spiked?

[stevo1600]

right i need some boosted lads knowledge, ive been helping clubbz with his turbod vtr, he fitted it all himself but its being a pain.

its spiking when on boost, jumping from 0.4 to 0.6 bar and beyond. hes using a bleed valve to controll pressure but where he has put the T for the oil feed, into the block, the waste gate can only open 45%. does it need to open further or is 45% enough? what can cause boost to spike?

sometimes it will hold at 0.4bar and take off, then change into 3rd and starts spiking...

EDIT: ive just thought luke, i heard wastegate chatter when you let off when it hits 0.6... (it has a DV fitted) my dv to be exact and worked perfect on my car. possibly a vac problem?

[blackie_2k5]

If the waste gate can't open enough to bleed off the excess boost it's bound to spike

The waste gates job is to get rid of all the extra pressure the turbo makes once your boost level is reached, if the waste gate can't fully open the boost won't get out and will be forced to go the only way it can... Through your engine

You can find the info on the correct size banjo to use on the net or a vag forum

[K567]

looks like a little clarity on terms needed here.
first for the oil feed, don't use a banjo to reduce pressure you need an oil restrictor for that job, should come standard on all oil feeds as part of the kit, second make sure the oil return if of a much greater size or this will allow pressure to build i.e. -2an feed -6 or -8 return
waste gate does not bleed boost, waste gate controls boost by releasing excess exhaust pressures
changing gears mid run will always see a slight spike the better the controller the better to controller of spike, most MBC's can't deal with this, but as long as it stays within a foundry, i.e. 7psi requested spiked 8/9 not a problem, spike 11/14psi yes this can also be related to bleed valve location how long is the hose between gate valve and pressure point you can mess with the length and get better response (more spike ) or build lag less likely to spike, but slower to maintain spool up

last if you have anything restricting the movement of the actuator arm fix it and clear it

explain waste gate chatter are you talking about the flutter you get in some poor dv's like fake baileys and such, this is likely to be a weak spring or possible gusset split, if your talking waste gate, then unless you have a screamer pipe you won't hear it to a point you can really say unless you actually hear your exhaust clearly

hope this helps

[blackie_2k5]

Maybe I worded that a little wrong lol (trying to make it sous simpler)

The waste gate release the excess gas that will spin the turbine to create your boost.. If it can't get out it will continue to spin the turbine faster creating more boost :y:

But majority of lines use a banjo to restrict the pressure that I've seen,

As mentioned manual boost controllers or bleed valves are shit at regulating boost, especially web accelerating quick/changing gear

As if you accelerate quick the turbo spools fast and will continue to spin faster before the bleed valve reacts and opens the gate... So you will see a small initial spike untill the waste gate kicks in and and regulates the boost

As said small spikes aren't major issues and are a downfall of that type of control

[K567]

ill add a little edit...
when i say don't use banjo fitting, i mean don't use a std banjo, you need an oil restrictor type as they do these, preference is proper restrictor you wanna avoid 90deg turns on any oil feed return setup

[K567]

you want something like this and it should be turbo side of the feed http://www.racingpartdepot.com/media/06/a20792912ee00e4bc631e4_m.JPG

[blackie_2k5]

That's what I was referring to buddy :y:

Large open banjo is what is probs in, you need to find the correct size one for the turbo from a vag forum or the net :y:

[K567]

ko3/ko4 is 0.9mm

[blackie_2k5]

This was what i meant, not your pic above as my post reads (however either is fine)

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?itemId=370614651010&index=1&nav=SEARCH&nid=38584108701

This isn't for your turbo but I'm sure if you search youll find one :y:

[stevo1600]

Thanks for the info lads,

Hes removed the t-peice from the block so its freed the wastegate arm. (can now open fully) also thrown the bleed valve away and fitted the same boost controller blackie and i ran. i havent been up but dont know if hes tried it out yet.

when i said wastegate chatter, i meant turbo flutter. thought they were the same things?, but the dv dumps in gear 2, then change gear, boost shoots way up and then when lets off it chatters. so i was thinking of a vacum problem, maybe a hole in one? or ones getting crimped when the engines rocking.


also the dump valve is a genuine baileys dv that i ran, and had no issues at all, accept it being silly loud. so its not that causing the problem. just need to wait on luke with the verdict.

[K567]

Right ok so flutter, if you have a dv an it's working it's very unlikely your getting flutter, this happens from a back pressure formed by not using a dv throttle closed, pressure in pipe, bounces back and causes turbines to stall giving a flutter, this can be mistaken also for the dv not operating right where the bladder has split and it's leaking pressure causing it to open shut open shut open shut on operation check bladder, check spring pressure check vac line that operates pressure side and keeps it closed under boost this should come from a manifold pressure port or t'd to one. Not turbo side as this can caused pressure to hold dv closed. Bleed valve for boost control on turbo pressure anything that requires vacuum feed from manifold side.