PDA

View Full Version : VTR bottom end VTS cylinder head


KierenCrawford
25th December 2013, 18:31
I've seen load of old threads about people in the process of putting tu5j4 16valve vts/gti heads on tu5jp 8valve vtr/rallye bottom ends and they all ran into the same problem, there is a oil return in the 16valve head that returns through to the sump, some people said you can drill the block, others suggested just going to a catch tank and or then returning it to the sump, and the cambelt tensioner was in the wrong place, I also have read that it would need a custom management system due to the mix and match of everything.

As far as I can pick up the bore/stroke and 90% of the bottom end is the same they share the same head gasket...

I would like to hear from someone who has done/attempted or knows where I can find the information on it, would like to know how is best to go about it, just as a challange as putting a built up 16valve in would just be to easy ahah....

welshpug
25th December 2013, 18:43
don't later engines dispose of that breather pipe that goes round the side of the head to the front of the block anyway? I think the JP4 does anyway.

as you said, the basic block casting, crank (and rods?) are the same, so other than ensuring you have the right compression and enough valve clearance, it'll run fine on standard management if its standard cams.

KierenCrawford
25th December 2013, 19:01
don't later engines dispose of that breather pipe that goes round the side of the head to the front of the block anyway? I think the JP4 does anyway.

as you said, the basic block casting, crank (and rods?) are the same, so other than ensuring you have the right compression and enough valve clearance, it'll run fine on standard management if its standard cams.

Okay cheers for the reply, so possibly a later j4 or a jp4 head could be better if it does as you say dispose of the breather, :D surprised more people haven't tried going down this route to be honest...

8valve just sucks 98bhp is poop considering a 1.3 K11 micra can be tuned to 100bhp from the simplest of mods, and I've seen them up to 230bhp from a 1300!!!!!!!! Need my vtr to have more power aha

Cam
25th December 2013, 19:15
Why dont you just do a 16v conversion instead of running into to countless problems ie ecu.

KierenCrawford
25th December 2013, 19:18
Why dont you just do a 16v conversion instead of running into to countless problems ie ecu.

Would just like to know the procedures for doing this conversion,

sexy_gt
25th December 2013, 19:34
Just do 16v engine swap.

I only wanted to do it because i had a 8v bottom end with low comp pistons in but wanted greater potential (16v).

Ended up using a proper 16v engine.

welshpug
25th December 2013, 19:51
Why dont you just do a 16v conversion instead of running into to countless problems ie ecu.

there wont be any ecu issues.

tweeqd
25th December 2013, 19:53
I converted my jp4 block to run the that pipe as a crank breather to my catch tank

KierenCrawford
25th December 2013, 20:10
I converted my jp4 block to run the that pipe as a crank breather to my catch tank

I don't know weather it makes much difference but I have a phase2 vtr engine, so oil filter is plastics type but it's not hard to change to the metal type if needed, so I'm leaning more towards jp4 cylnder head and not a J4 ?

wullvfr
25th December 2013, 20:40
I'd just go for a j4 16v unit......simple to do and you'll have a bit more power!

KierenCrawford
25th December 2013, 21:24
Just up for seeing the possibilities of a vtr engine

Gandi699
25th December 2013, 21:39
The 8v can make decent power with the right mods don't forget the rallye 1.3 made 100bhp give or take.
But as said it's not worth the hassle just get a full 16v unit


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

KierenCrawford
25th December 2013, 21:57
I want to be sat at 160bhp at the flywheel, can't really see that without itb's and lots of $$$$

AlexB
25th December 2013, 22:29
the 8v block has a different pulley for the cambelt than the 16v so youll need to strip it and change that
the pistons would need pocketing
and its generally not worth the hassle
swap a 16v in it with a manifold on and lob some cams in youll be 150+ in most cases its a LOT easier than what your proposing unless you plan to rebuild most of the bottom end