clutches

[tommyc]

were can i get a high performance from for my vtr???

[bullit]

any reason you want aftermarket one?

[boz]

you can get clutches that are suitable to handle 25% increase in power like black diamond, ebc and that.
if you are intending running massive power, you will need the likes of a helix or ap racing twin plate clutch, but these are hard on the old left foot and tend to be either on or off, dont have much of a bite point lol

mines a nightmare in traffic :( :)

[MaRiO89]

Not much point unless your tuning it..

[G187]

sorry for the :hijack: , but does anyone know how long it'll take to replace a clutch on a vtr? and whats involved possibly?

thanks

[boz]

jack car up,
wheels off,
wishbone joint out off the bottom of strut (ball joint splitter),
loosen the 2 bolts that hold the bearing in place on the drivers side (carrier half way along drive shaft),
remove starter motor,
drian box fluid,
pull drives shafts out of box,
support engine and gearbox with jacks,
remove air filter and battery,
remove the gear linkages with and open ended spanner, take care not to damage ball joint of linkages ;)
then start to loosen the 5 (iirc) bolts that hold the box onto the engine (best to get a allen head drives),
remove the cover plate thats on driver side of box, 2 hex head bolts,
loosen the rear engine mount and leave it hanging from the car,
loosen the gearbox engine mount under battery tray,
lower the jacks,
then remove the plate that holds the engine mount to the box (under battery try, 3 bolts),
disconnect any wiring to the box,
wiggle the box about until it comes free, its pritty heavy so get someone to give you a hand ;)
once out, place to one side and remove the drive shaft oil seals, always replace these and take care not to damage them when refitting the drive shafts in ;)

always replace the realease bearing to, this is the thing thats on the shaft of the gearbox.
loosen the bolts that hold the clutch to the engine, fit new clutch.

the refitment is the reverse of how you took it apart ;)

just ensure the realease bearing stays on the shaft ;)

it can be fiddly to do but it isnt hard and saves a few quid.

always replace the 2 drive shaft oil seals and realease bearing.
also remember to fill the box with new box fluid once your finished ;)

i also fit new bolts and nuts to the wishbone ball joint mounting on the strut ;)

alocate a weekend to get it sorted if you have never done it before, only really takes a day tops ;)

hope that helps mate ;)

[boz]

you will need a clutch alignment tool.

or see if you can pick up a shaft out of a fooked box from the scrappy ;) thats all i use lol works a treat.

have a look at my progress thread in your photos and videos section. i have some pics of my box off etc ;)

[boz]

Not much point unless your tuning it..

if you clutch is goosed, may as well fit an uprated one ;)

[Foggy]

In the rally 1400, we run an AP Paddle Clutch plate with a standard 106 Rallye/ AX GT housing and thrust bearing.

This gives us no problems what so ever, and is a lot better than the Helix unit that exploded after about 400 miles of use taking the box with it! :n: :n:

[boz]

lol
my AP racing twin plate clutch is a bit raw lol
great tho ;)

[Ryan]

std valeo ones are good imo..

dont get black dimamond or shit like that

[Karl]

I gotta lovely Valeo clutch :P
seems alright so far...

[Toad]

My cluth is a bit jumpy when it's released when changing from 1st to 2nd. This is only really the case when you are driving eco like, around town etc. If you changing at around 6000+ rpm it's fine. Anyhow, I'm (hopefully) changing my gearbox soon for an S1 Rallye box, or I might have to alter my existing with the S1's CWP... I was thinking, I might get the flywheel lightened and a new clutch at the same sitting. Does anyone have an recommendations for a clutch? Running around 160 - 165 BHP at present, and soon to install TB's.

[G187]

cheers boz :y: