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View Full Version : How To Fit A 4-2-1 / 4-1 Manifold


boz
5th May 2007, 02:27
Hello :)

I have decided to make a thread for fitting an after market 4-2-1 or 4-1 manifold, as i have noticed a lot of people asking questions about them.

I hope this will help ;)

Ok now, there are a load of aftermarket manifolds available in either mild steel and stainless steel, 4-2-1 desing or 4-1 design. but they are all fitted in the same way ;)

i have fitted a GMC 4-1 manifold and a 4-2-1 raceland manifold, they are not hard to do and you dont need to be a mechanic to do it, as long as you can use a jack, spanner and a socket and wrench you will be fine lol its a good way to start and get to know how you car works ;) lol

before you start you will need the following:

jack and axle stands
13mm spanner (manifold nuts)
13mm socket (manifold nuts)
extension bar
ratchet
10mm spanner x2 (maifold/cat joint)
17mm or 19mm spanner (not 100% certain what size the bolt is for manifold/gearbox mounting bolt lol)
21mm or 22mm spanner (lambda sensor)

new exhaust gasket
new exhaust manifold stud nuts
new manifold/cat joint kit (bolts, springs, caps, nuts and a gasket)
(i would get the above parts from citroen, they dont cost much ;) )
exhaust putty
WD40
wire brush
mole grips

Ok now, here goes ;)

make sure the car is cold, otherwise you will burn your mits ;) lol

spray some WD40 onto the manifold stud/nuts, leave for 10 - 15mins, this will help when you come to loosen the nuts off ;)

jack the car up on the correct points under the sill, place axle stands under the car to secure it, place a brick or block of wood under the rear wheels to stop it rolling incase handbrake fails

for those of you that have never used a spanner before, anti-clockwise is to loosen clockwise to tighten (right to tighty, left to lucy ;) )

working from under the car, remove the bolts, springs, caps etc from the manifold/cat joint, 10mm spanners.

remove the bolt that mounts the manifold to the gearbox, this is on the side of the gearbox (drivers side) it is the part of the standard manifold that has the square section welded to it ;) 17 or 19mm spanner.
(i found that it was too long and took ages to get out, so i chopped the bolt down when i fitted the gmc manifold ;) )

Remove the lamda sensor (mk1 vtr has 1, mk2 vtr and vts have 2) you will need to apply some WD40, leave for a few mins and remove 21mm or 22mm spanner) take care with the sensor when its out, as it is delicate.

open the bonnet

if you have a mk2 vts, you will need to move the EGR valve, this is done by disconnecting the large black pipe, the disconneting the bracket that holds the valve to the head. you can then move this out of your way as its on a flexable joint ;)

working standing up from the front of the car.

start to loosen the bottom set of manifold studs bolts (13mm spanner)

sometimes the stud bolt will come out with the nut (dont worry)

once the bottom set of nuts are off, start on the top set (13mm socket, extension bar and ratchet), dont take them all out, leave the 2 end ones in (this will be all that is holding the manifold on)

Remove the last 2 nuts and take the manifold off, its best to lower it down under the car, taking care not to hit the radiator ;) (so easy to put a hole in it!)

Remove the old gasket, clean any crap off that is on the sealing face of the cylinder head.

Ok now, thats the standard manifold off ;) half way there :)


If any manifolds studs have come out of the head with the nut, dont panic ;). Use the wire brush to clean the end of the stud that has the nut on, spray a bit more WD40 on the stud and nut. Using the mole grips, clamp them onto the centre part of the stud that has no thread on it. then try to tighten the nut to break it free, then loosen it off ;)

Clean all of the studs up with a wire brush and apply WD40 to them.

Clean the surface face of the manifold.

Fit any of the studs that came out, into the head. Screw the studs in by hand, then fit 2 old nuts to the stud. Place a spanner on the rear nut and a spanner on the front nut, keep the rear spanner still and tighten the front spanner, this will lock the 2 nuts together. Then place a spanner onto the first nut and tighten the nut, this will lock the stud into the head ;)

Then place a spanner onto the rear nut and a spanner onto the front nut. Hold the rear spanner still and loosen the front spanner., this will allow you to remove both nuts and still have the stud tight into the cylinder head.

Place the gasket onto the studs.

Lay the manifold under the car, beneath the engine.

Lift the manifold up through the gap, again ensuring you dont hit the radiator.

Place the manifold onto the studs that are in the cylinder head.

Place 2 new nuts onto the outer top studs (driver side and passenger side) do not tighten these studs, you just want them on a few threds.

Remove the spacers from the standard manifold (where the 2 bolts locate, manifold/cat joint) these will just tap out with a hammer and bar/screwdriver.

Fit these into the new manifold (some come with them and some dont lol)

Remove old fibre compression gasket from cat pipe and fit the new one out of the kit.

I normally place a small amount of putty to the gasket and manifold sealing face for good measure.

Lift up the manifold and fit the 2 bolts, springs caps and nuts to the manifold cat joint. Just fit the nuts on a few threads.

Fit the bolt back into the manifold/gearbox mount, again just hand tight.

Now, fit the remaining nuts to the manifold studs, you will notice that the manifold nuts are harder to get to as the design of the manifold is different to standard. But its possible ;)

Tighten up the studs, i normally do the 4 end ones first just to ensure that the manifold is sitting flat eg 1st and 4th on the top, 1st and 4th on the bottom. you will find that you can get most of the top set with the socket,extension and ratchet, but the remainder will need to be done with a spanner, i tend to use a ratchet spanner as it means you dont need to keep taking it off ;)

Once you are happy that the manifold is sitting flat, you can tighten up all the nuts, dont over tighten. you can easily snap manifold studs.

Now tighten the manifold/cat joint up.

Then the manifold/gearbox mount.

Lower the car down.

Remove the bricks or wood from the rear wheels.

Start the car and listen for any leaks ;)

I think thats it all covered lol.

I would allocate a morning or afternoon to do it, if you never have before. But its not hard, just a bit fiddly.

Will save a few quid instead of paying some one to do it for you and you get to learn your car more ;)

I will add some pics up at a later date, as a step by step guide to mate it a bit easier to grasp ;)

Have fun

To get the best results from a aftermarket manifold, i would recommend a full system and a de-cat pipe

Mark51
5th May 2007, 03:07
sounds good mate, awaits the pics then imo should be a sticky

S34MER
5th May 2007, 06:34
sounds good mate, awaits the pics then imo should be a sticky

couldn't agree more :clapping:

its has bags of detail and tips, just needs a few pics to make it proper and it deffo needs to be a sticky imo!

top work boz :y:

Steve
5th May 2007, 09:00
you must be bored away! :homme:

boz
5th May 2007, 09:27
LOL im defo bored over here, to much time on my hands.
decided to make some use of it ;)
will take pics when im home, for each step ;)

FinchysSaxo
5th May 2007, 16:40
thanks m8 thats very helpful :D i will be waiting for the pics. is there anyway i can make a sleeve myself for the lambda sensor that is left, i have a 1.4 furio and so will be de-cat when i fit my manifold thanks

boz
6th May 2007, 09:57
you can make one up on a manual lathe out of a piece of bar, you would need to drill it deep enough for the lambda sensor to fit in, it would also need to be tapped with the same thread as that of the lambda sensor.

This is what they look like
this is a gmc motorsport one ;)
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/bozjc/lambda-holder.jpg
they arnt too expensive :)

milesg
6th May 2007, 10:11
great thread mate, its got to be made a sticky, cant wait to see pics

Ste
7th May 2007, 12:14
:clapping: Pics

Predator_R32
7th May 2007, 12:48
gret stuff boz, on mk2s you have to relocate the oil filter, well gmc manifolds will be ok its just the raceland ones, relocation kits can be bought from GMC

RAFkev
7th May 2007, 18:36
i fitted a raceland to my mk2 vts and didn't have to move the oil filter!

just relocate the lambda sensor

Predator_R32
7th May 2007, 21:05
think its on the mk2 vtrs that have the problem and i think its just certain manifolds

RedB
10th May 2007, 10:53
LOL im defo bored over here, to much time on my hands.
decided to make some use of it ;)
will take pics when im home, for each step ;)

Really good mate, as everyone else has said cant wait for the pics. As you've got so much time fancy helping me fit mine in a month or two? Any sugegstions which 4-2-1 manifold to get my hands on for a VTS and how much to spend?

PicsComingSoon RB

benjisrd
11th May 2007, 18:45
you have to move the oil filter just for 8V engine

boz
12th May 2007, 01:17
redbullet07

its all depends on how much you want to spend my friend?

raceland are cheap and seem to do the trick.

GMC are really good but are more expensive

Super sprint are also really good, but again the are expensive.

i was going to get a gmc or supersprint one, but decided to try the raceland as it was cheap in a group buy on ssc, i have no problems with it, but the gmc and supersprint seem to be better build quality. but you carnt go wrong with a supersprint for 130quid delivered ;)

you can also heat wrap a manifold helps retain the heat in the manifold. good mod and looks cool ;)


i will get some pics up when i return to the uk ;)

FinchysSaxo
15th May 2007, 13:40
I tried fitting my Raceland vtr manifold on my furio on saturday, and the only problem i had was the oil filter. I need to get a mk1 vtr oil filter and adapter so it isnt in the way, tried to get 1 while had everything out but everywhere was shut by this point. I will get the part on friday, and fit my manifold on sunday, cant wait :) . I had to remove the alternator to remove my old manifold as it has the cat in i couldnt manouver it out

oz_borne
20th May 2007, 15:38
Does Anybody Have Pics For Any Of This

Pm Me Iof You Do

:a:

cal1892
9th June 2007, 16:09
im doing this at moment, and fuck me lol. im actually black, hardest part i would say is gettin the bolts out from under the manifold and the lambda sensor i still cant get out, waitin for my mate to come round with a 22mm spanner so hopefully this will fit, only thing i will say is that on my mk1 vts the nut on the square bit at bottom of manifold joining to gear box was 10mm spanner :Y:

MarkyG
9th June 2007, 16:40
pics would definitely help with this guide, big thumbs up though for taking the time to write it, will help me out the weekend when i do mine on my Mk2 VTS

cal1892
10th June 2007, 00:23
well. finished fitting the manifold. and well... fuck me lol. i havent finished it completely i still have to put some of the nuts back on the bloody head,
noticed my mk1 vts also had 3 gaskets, so.. cleaned em up and stuck the new on aswell lol.
as for the bolt that fits onto the gear box and the lower square kina bit near the lambda well... i got rid of it lol it made the manifold sit too high and too far away from the joining pipe. who knows why,
still to do .... collect cat joining kit and fit as currently using old one and then seal up with some exhaust glue type job lol.
guide is good but id say u have to have a fair knowledge.

Steve
10th June 2007, 09:01
well. finished fitting the manifold. and well... fuck me lol. i havent finished it completely i still have to put some of the nuts back on the bloody head,
noticed my mk1 vts also had 3 gaskets, so.. cleaned em up and stuck the new on aswell lol.
as for the bolt that fits onto the gear box and the lower square kina bit near the lambda well... i got rid of it lol it made the manifold sit too high and too far away from the joining pipe. who knows why,
still to do .... collect cat joining kit and fit as currently using old one and then seal up with some exhaust glue type job lol.
guide is good but id say u have to have a fair knowledge.

i dont think need knowledge to be fair, i have no mechanically skills :panic:

and fitted 2 now, 1st one took a while and needed the manifold flange adjusting so ended up having to pay to get it re fitted professionally.

Fitted richies janspeed but that needed the down pipe adjustment. So if aftermarket items actually fitted 100% i would have had no trouble!

Manifolds are piss really just a bit of a fuck on with some parts :y:

cal1892
10th June 2007, 12:48
i a get what u mean ive no knowledge either but i wouldnt suggest starting it if your goin jus think hey wait a min that doesnt fit there must be something up, u have to make a few mods yourself lol.
screwing the nuts back on is tricky infact solid lol especially if ur bolt has come out.

Steve
10th June 2007, 12:54
i a get what u mean ive no knowledge either but i wouldnt suggest starting it if your goin jus think hey wait a min that doesnt fit there must be something up, u have to make a few mods yourself lol.
screwing the nuts back on is tricky infact solid lol especially if ur bolt has come out.

i agree with that the nuts can be a bitch to get on as had to wiggle the manifold other wise they catch :panic:

Gixerjim1000
13th September 2007, 05:31
Hi all New on here,I have just purchased a new Racelands manifold 4-2-1 with built in down pipe, but the lambda sensor on my stock manifold for my mk1 vtr is near the front high up on the down pipe but the racelands one fits just in front of the lower cat joint,I dont think the lambda sensor will reach,any body come across this before??? help appreciatted
Jim

saunders
13th September 2007, 07:59
Hi all New on here,I have just purchased a new Racelands manifold 4-2-1 with built in down pipe, but the lambda sensor on my stock manifold for my mk1 vtr is near the front high up on the down pipe but the racelands one fits just in front of the lower cat joint,I dont think the lambda sensor will reach,any body come across this before??? help appreciatted
Jim

It will reach mate, all you need to do is follow the wiring back and drop it down behind the gearbox or there abouts and it should reach:y:

PRICEY-VTS
13th September 2007, 11:29
getting a supersprint manifold tomorrow any probems when fitting it what a should look for ?
cheers pricey

98silvervts
6th January 2008, 11:22
Hi all New on here,I have just purchased a new Racelands manifold 4-2-1 with built in down pipe, but the lambda sensor on my stock manifold for my mk1 vtr is near the front high up on the down pipe but the racelands one fits just in front of the lower cat joint,I dont think the lambda sensor will reach,any body come across this before??? help appreciatted
Jim

It will reach mate, all you need to do is follow the wiring back and drop it down behind the gearbox or there abouts and it should reach:y:

cheers chaps the answer i was looking for.. reppppppped

oh and boz nice one, good guide.. repppppped also cheers

Pazog
16th July 2008, 16:28
boz!! madman

nufc70
4th October 2008, 13:07
(Remove the lamda sensor (mk1 vtr has 1, mk2 vtr and vts have 2) you will need to apply some WD40, leave for a few mins and remove 21mm or 22mm spanner) take care with the sensor when its out, as it is delicate.)

hiya great thread btw, i was wondering if ya could help us out, my standard manifold has a split at the bottom and has started blowing, im thinking of going ahead and buying the 4-2-1 raceland manifold off of kam racing, but im a bit confused as to what happens with the lambda sensors because fitting the new manifold obviously decats it? where do the sensors go? and also by them being off its going to bring on engine management lights on the dash isn't it?

thanks for any help in advance

danc20xe
28th October 2008, 19:40
So can anybody confirm this:

Is there any vtr 8v manifolds out there that fit straight on without having to mess with the oil filter????

dobbo_1
28th October 2008, 19:50
So can anybody confirm this:

Is there any vtr 8v manifolds out there that fit straight on without having to mess with the oil filter????


yes mate piper or supersprint ones from kam

danc20xe
28th October 2008, 19:57
Ok cheers matey. Anyone got one for sale???

Ferg
28th October 2008, 20:41
For sale section ...

The_Dark_Knight
6th February 2009, 13:32
Thought it would be good for some-one with more experience on 4-2-1 and 4-1 manifolds to state what manifold would be better for the VTR and VTS, with and without engine mods??

Proffitt
6th February 2009, 13:36
Thought it would be good for some-one with more experience on 4-2-1 and 4-1 manifolds to state what manifold would be better for the VTR and VTS, with and without engine mods??

Basically you get what you pay for matey, i would reccomend the supersprint manifold :y:

The_Dark_Knight
6th February 2009, 13:36
Thought it would be good for some-one with more experience on 4-2-1 and 4-1 manifolds to state what manifold would be better for the VTR and VTS, with and without engine mods??

also the diffence with the mk1 and mk2 VTR cat being on the manifold for the mk2?? is it a simple case of plugging the hole up the at mot time put the original manifold back on??

Proffitt
6th February 2009, 13:42
Well the supersprint will fir both vtr's but if you buy the raceland mani then you will have to re-locate the oil filter on the mk2 (raceland will fit the mk1 with moving shizz around)

Late mk2 vtr's have the cat in the mani so when it comes to the MOT, yes you will have to change manis around - unless you get a mk1 exhaust which has the cat under the car :y: Dont have to change manis around if you have the mk1 as cat is under car :D

The_Dark_Knight
6th February 2009, 13:50
Well the supersprint will fir both vtr's but if you buy the raceland mani then you will have to re-locate the oil filter on the mk2 (raceland will fit the mk1 with moving shizz around)

Late mk2 vtr's have the cat in the mani so when it comes to the MOT, yes you will have to change manis around - unless you get a mk1 exhaust which has the cat under the car :y: Dont have to change manis around if you have the mk1 as cat is under car :D

Cool. Now just leaves the question about which manifold is more suited to the VTR and VTS, 4-2-1 or 4-1, what gains do you get from each of these manifolds on the VTR and VTS engine?

Proffitt
6th February 2009, 14:31
Cool. Now just leaves the question about which manifold is more suited to the VTR and VTS, 4-2-1 or 4-1, what gains do you get from each of these manifolds on the VTR and VTS engine?

Well what i have learnt...the 4-2-1 mainfold is best for the VTR and the 4-1 manifold is better fir the VTS, not 100% sure why! Someone correct me if im wrong!

I found that when i added the maniold to my car it made a difference, not massive but enought for you to feel it :D Would defo reccomend getting one aswell as a full system exhaust :y:

Supersprint do a VERY good 4-2-1 manifold

Piper do a VERY good 4-1 maifold

Have a read of this mate - http://www.saxperience.com/forum/showthread.php?t=87854&highlight=exhaust+thread

:y:

neo2001
14th February 2009, 00:32
im going to use this guide tomorrow very handy thanks

iFurio
2nd October 2011, 10:10
pics would be amazing

kae
16th January 2012, 16:00
pic this up and i will <3 you

RyanSvtr
16th January 2012, 16:02
I could do with some pics here too. Fitting mine this evening

RyanSvtr
17th January 2012, 14:13
Would i need a relocation kit, as im fitting a Supersprint manifold that was on a MKI Vtr to my MkII Vtr???

Good thread mate, look forward to pics