My one and only saxo so far - have replaced pretty much everything on it at one point during ownership!! Still feels tight to drive and is always enjoyable !
The summer of 2010 awaits
Posted 29th May 2010 at 21:11 by raunchz
Thought this blog was due a little update as things have been a bit quiet recently on the car front.
With Uni almost finished, I'm left with a good 2 months off over the summer before starting a graduate job, so I plan on relaxing and doing a bit of work on the car.
During the summer I hope to get the following done:
- Engine out
- Engine bay seam welded
- Engine bay painted up
- Strut top plates welded on
- Small part of bulkhead 'edited' ready for the Be conversion
I'll be selling the TB's, and then fitting the C2 inlet and ATPower 55mm throttle body. I'll sell the S1 and S2 gearbox and put the Be4r gearbox on. The following needs to be done to fit the Be gearbox:
- Need a Be4r gearbox to suit a TU engine (Purchased)
- Need upper and lower gearbox mounts (will buy them from ATSpeed)
- Hubs need to be machined down to fit inside a 37mm ID oem Saxo wheel bearing (Purchased hubs)
- 3mm shims needs making up to space the hub outwards from the strut (so the brake disc offset is all A OK)
- Passenger driveshaft will then fit straight in (Purchased)
- Intermediate bearing carrier for the Be4r gearbox is needed (purchased)
- Drivers driveshaft needs to be shortened inbetween the bearing carrier and the hub (Driveshaft purchased)
- I'm going to be fitting the cable shifter mechanism for the Be4r box hence needing to 'edit' the bulkhead. Looking at it I need play with around an A5 portion of the bulkhead - I estimate I need to box it inwards around 20mm and then just needs 2 holes for the cables. Should give me nice flexibility in mounting the shifter in the cabin and feel nice to shift.
I'm still undecided as to which way to go on the clutch side of things, either hydraulic clutch or cable.
I'm thinking of going with the hydraulic setup as I've already got the slave cylinder on the Be4r gearbox - but this looks to be the harder way to go. I think I'll wait and see how things progress - I just like the idea of having an oem feeling clutch, when in reality is good for 250+ft lb.
I also want to plumb in a swirl pot and external fuel pump setup - this should help with things on the track, plus I need to edit the fuel system to fit the oem C2 vts fuel rail which only have one 'nipple' on it, meaning that the FPR will need to go back to being under the rear bench.
Should I have time I'll look to play around with the intercooler mounting and get that setup ready to go
Hopefully by the end of the summer I'll have an oem j4 engine, with Piper BP285 cams and C2vts inlet mapped on Predator (by me) and the Be conversion sorted and reliable ready for getting boost going.
With Uni almost finished, I'm left with a good 2 months off over the summer before starting a graduate job, so I plan on relaxing and doing a bit of work on the car.
During the summer I hope to get the following done:
- Engine out
- Engine bay seam welded
- Engine bay painted up
- Strut top plates welded on
- Small part of bulkhead 'edited' ready for the Be conversion
I'll be selling the TB's, and then fitting the C2 inlet and ATPower 55mm throttle body. I'll sell the S1 and S2 gearbox and put the Be4r gearbox on. The following needs to be done to fit the Be gearbox:
- Need a Be4r gearbox to suit a TU engine (Purchased)
- Need upper and lower gearbox mounts (will buy them from ATSpeed)
- Hubs need to be machined down to fit inside a 37mm ID oem Saxo wheel bearing (Purchased hubs)
- 3mm shims needs making up to space the hub outwards from the strut (so the brake disc offset is all A OK)
- Passenger driveshaft will then fit straight in (Purchased)
- Intermediate bearing carrier for the Be4r gearbox is needed (purchased)
- Drivers driveshaft needs to be shortened inbetween the bearing carrier and the hub (Driveshaft purchased)
- I'm going to be fitting the cable shifter mechanism for the Be4r box hence needing to 'edit' the bulkhead. Looking at it I need play with around an A5 portion of the bulkhead - I estimate I need to box it inwards around 20mm and then just needs 2 holes for the cables. Should give me nice flexibility in mounting the shifter in the cabin and feel nice to shift.
I'm still undecided as to which way to go on the clutch side of things, either hydraulic clutch or cable.
I'm thinking of going with the hydraulic setup as I've already got the slave cylinder on the Be4r gearbox - but this looks to be the harder way to go. I think I'll wait and see how things progress - I just like the idea of having an oem feeling clutch, when in reality is good for 250+ft lb.
I also want to plumb in a swirl pot and external fuel pump setup - this should help with things on the track, plus I need to edit the fuel system to fit the oem C2 vts fuel rail which only have one 'nipple' on it, meaning that the FPR will need to go back to being under the rear bench.
Should I have time I'll look to play around with the intercooler mounting and get that setup ready to go
Hopefully by the end of the summer I'll have an oem j4 engine, with Piper BP285 cams and C2vts inlet mapped on Predator (by me) and the Be conversion sorted and reliable ready for getting boost going.
Total Comments 2
Comments
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hi m8 i was wondering if you could help me what it is ive brought a vts and had it for about 6 months now when i start the car its running fine but when it warms up abit the revs go up to 1 and half and starts sputtering and a strong smell of petrol comes but then clears up after a mion or so what could it be thanx
Posted 6th November 2010 at 22:52 by webby1986 -
Crank sensor
Posted 29th August 2011 at 15:22 by luke_vtr_gy