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14th January 2004, 02:29
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#1
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Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 2
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I'm wanting to get my saxo lowered 35mm at front and 40mm at the back, could anyone recomend good springs and shocks cause I don't really know! and would the tyres rub if the wheels are only 15"?
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14th January 2004, 04:43
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#2
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Administrator
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Glasgow United Kingdom (Scotland)
Posts: 26,097
Car(s): Chelski Traktor
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you should be fine on 15s, not sure on best shocks and springs on 35mm
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14th January 2004, 04:46
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#3
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Saxperience Addict
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Ashford, Kent, United Kingdom (England)
Posts: 12,835
Car(s): Cammed Saxo "desire" 16v
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koni's or avo are the best..
spax kits are pretty good.
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21st January 2004, 02:46
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#4
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Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Cambridge United Kingdom (England)
Posts: 7
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I brought some Apex's for my front which gave me a 40mm drop on 17's. so you should definatly be fine. Good Luck
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22nd January 2004, 18:30
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#5
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Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 4
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If you have got 15's you could slam it at least -80mm and still no rubbing. As for the shocks and springs try to get the same make, if you want good stuff go for eibach or bilstein, I know they make some stuff for saxo's, but they are more expensive products. The Koni sport adjustable kit is good which will lower the car between 35-40mm, as for the rear torsion bar each notch taken down is -25mm... Hope this is of some us to you, let me know how you get on, good luck
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22nd January 2004, 18:36
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#6
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Administrator
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Glasgow United Kingdom (Scotland)
Posts: 26,097
Car(s): Chelski Traktor
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dont lower by notches!!
correct way here www.badgermotorsport.com then go to technical
doing it this way means it can be lowered to whatever height you want
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23rd January 2004, 17:16
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#7
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L-plater
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: bradwell United Kingdom (England)
Posts: 31
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id stick some spax springs on if i were you ive found them very good in the past and my mates have also recommended them.
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26th January 2004, 15:39
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#8
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Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 4
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I got a question for Scott.. I went onto that website Badger Motorsport and read it, now I think you should read it mate because it states that they are working on is a saxo kit car and it explains that some of the set up will be different to that of a normal road saxo, are you sure you no what you are talking about mate? I rung up R-Tec Auto Design and I got a funny feeling that they would no best seeing as every car they have done has been featured in a magazine, and they told me that the rear torsion bar is lowered in notches!!
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26th January 2004, 15:40
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#9
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Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 4
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I got a question for Scott.. I went onto that website Badger Motorsport and read it, now I think you should read it mate because it states that they are working on is a saxo kit car and it explains that some of the set up will be different to that of a normal road saxo, are you sure you no what you are talking about mate? I rung up R-Tec Auto Design and I got a funny feeling that they would no best seeing as every car they have done has been featured in a magazine, and they told me that the rear torsion bar is lowered in notches!!
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26th January 2004, 16:09
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#10
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Infrequent Poster
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Colby, Isle of Man United Kingdom (England)
Posts: 247
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Saxogirl.
I'm gettin bilstein shocks on mine with 40mm ventura (i think) springs fitted on wednesday. Not sure what the back is going to be yet, maybe ask the garage to get it as level as poss. I'll let ya know what its like! The kit cost me about £280.
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27th January 2004, 05:22
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#11
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Administrator
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Glasgow United Kingdom (Scotland)
Posts: 26,097
Car(s): Chelski Traktor
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they dont lower it by notches in the sense you mean.
The way it first was though was just yank out the torsion bar and twist it then re insert it.
The proper way still includes notches to an extent but does it the correct way
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28th January 2004, 00:13
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#12
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Regular Poster
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: walton on thames
Posts: 287
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All hail scott, you, me old chum are correct in saying that we do NOT lower by notches, as a person who has performed this operation many times, i would sugest that it would be right pain to start counting "notches". If you follow the directions on the "badger" web page you will not go wrong at all, infact having been brave in going for the "work it out for me self" methord first time around, then repeat several times before stumbeling accross the badger site, i found that "badger" have done it exactly the same way i did, only with a better explenation.
Any way, this was a post from some one asking for help!!
Saxogirl
Get the best kit you can afford, if you can stump up the notes, get koni coil overs, if your budget is not quite that large, go for maby spax shocks and springs. You can only get what you can afford. Tell us what area you live in and maby someone can recomend a company to fit them that they have used and would recomend.
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28th January 2004, 04:14
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#13
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Administrator
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Glasgow United Kingdom (Scotland)
Posts: 26,097
Car(s): Chelski Traktor
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thank you supersav 
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28th January 2004, 15:05
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#14
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L-plater
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 61
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you will only get rubbing if you go 16's or higher as my mate found out haha.
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3rd February 2004, 14:21
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#15
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L-plater
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: bradwell United Kingdom (England)
Posts: 31
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i only have a 1.1i does that make any difference on lowering height because of them daft pieces of plastic across the back wheel arches. this would be lowering the car with 14" wheels on it
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3rd February 2004, 15:31
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#16
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Regular Poster
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Essex United Kingdom (England)
Posts: 477
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yes it does make a difference. On the 1.1i the rear arch has a lip that bends in where the bottom of the plastic trim is. Is a pain in the arse. Only have 15's and not lowered yet and it catches the tyre when i got two people in the back. You'll have to get it cut off
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Dan
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