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Old 5th May 2009, 19:33   #1
MikeyyA
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Default Fuse box problems?

Saxo 1.1 forte

just bought the thing, the fuse for the cd player, cigarette lighter, door light is not recieving power, checked the terminal and it is not getting power to it every other fuse us, any ideas?
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Old 5th May 2009, 19:54   #2
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Mike do you mean fuse 13 (bottom left hand corner) in the passenger fuse box? So one of the terminals does not have 12v?

Try fuse 12, it feeds a few things and then fuse 13. Fuse 13 supplies electrickery to the things you mentioned and others.

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Old 5th May 2009, 19:54   #3
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Fuse 12 is directly above fuse 13 by the way.
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Old 5th May 2009, 19:57   #4
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its top left next to the horizontal plug thats not getting power? cheers mikey
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Old 5th May 2009, 20:08   #5
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OK, just dug out diags.

Top left = 12, ok now check fuse 13 directly below it. I was wrong fuse 13 feeds 12 not the other way.

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Old 5th May 2009, 20:17   #6
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13 has power to it, side lights and reg plate lights are on it. any ideas what might have caused 12 to not get power.
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Old 5th May 2009, 20:24   #7
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I can only assume that fuse 13 is faulty. There is a direct wire between the NON LIVE end of fuse 13 and fuse 12.

I would guess that you see volts at the bottom terminal under fuse 13 (the bottom most terminal? Right? If so, then the top terminal of fuse 13 probably has a direct connection to fuse 12 botom terminal above. I am guessing though.

If fuse 13 is ok, check it for 0 ohms resistance, then check for 0 ohms between the NON .

LIVE terminal on fuse 13 and one on fuse 12

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Old 5th May 2009, 20:25   #8
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Oh, you can only test for volts on 12 with a working fuse in 12.
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Old 5th May 2009, 20:25   #9
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Doh!

Oh, you can only test for volts on 12 with a working fuse in 13
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Old 5th May 2009, 20:32   #10
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rite , ill have to check that out the morn. cheerss
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Old 5th May 2009, 20:37   #11
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Sorry Mike,

The fuses 12 & fuse share the same power source wiring. So BOTH fuses 12 and 13 should have one terminal that is LIVE. If 13 is LIVE and 12 not then look for anything that may make the terminal high resistance such as soot from a pervious blown fuse.

Otherwise the shared wiring to the fuse 12 terminal might be bad.

You could use a short length of short THICK wire between fuse 13 LIVE terminal and fuse 13 and the NON LIVE terminal on 12. That will bypass the fuse 13 - 12 wire and fuse 12.

Check to see if you can see a 7 pin WHITE connector going to the fuse board and make sure it is properly plugged in.

Cheers
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Old 5th May 2009, 20:50   #12
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Just trying to make it crystal clear...

The fuses 12 & 13 share the same power source wiring from the fuse board supply connector. So BOTH fuses 12 and 13 should have one terminal that is LIVE. If 13 is LIVE and 12 not then look for anything that may make the terminals on fuse 12 terminal a high resistance, such as soot from a previous blown fuse or dirt.

Otherwise the shared wiring from the fuseboard supply wiring connector 7 to the fuse 12 terminal might be bad. Perhaps someone had put a huge fuse in it and burned the wiring.

You could use a short length of short multi-stranded copper wire (5 amps) pushed in between fuse 13 LIVE terminal and fuse 13 and the NON LIVE terminal on 12. That will bypass the fuse 13 - 12 wire and fuse 12.

Check to see if you can see a 7 pin WHITE connector going to the fuse board and make sure it is properly plugged in.

IF you have a white looking relay above the top right of the circuit board then this is a "Lights on" buzzer and this may be causing fuses to blow. I saw a nasty thread electrical fault resolved yesterday by removing and replacing this relay looking buzzer. If the previous owner put bigger and bigger fuses in then this may have eventually resulted in this wiring burning out.

Good luck tomorrow

Cheers
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Old 5th May 2009, 21:08   #13
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cheers m8, a have no idea about electrics at all, ill take a look for what uve said tho, cheers again
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Old 5th May 2009, 22:38   #14
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Mike,

I assumed you were electrically savvy. How are you checking voltages at fuse terminals?

I have seen a few threads this week, some that resulted in fuse 12 blowing or problems with stuff fed from this fuse.

Here is one: http://www.saxperience.com/forum/sho...ghlight=buzzer

Here is another: http://www.saxperience.com/forum/sho...ghlight=buzzer

There are several more too, but in some removing the battery for a while resolved it. i doubt it will for you. Perhaps the white light-on buzzer is the root cause of so many problems.

I am trying to picture the wiring behind the fuse panel. Do you have a Haynes?

If so look at diagram 6, grid ref 1D. My guess is that the supply wire from connector 7 goes to the live terminal of fuse 13, then via a wire over to the live terminal of fuse 12. So both these terminals should be live = 12V.

If not then the terminal could be physically dirty preventing electrical flow (if you are using a mutimeter then give the terminal a good scratch to pierce any dirt),

OR, the wire from this fuse 13 terminal to live terminal for fuse 12 is broken, probably fused.

ALWAYS disconnect the battery before doing what you are about to try...

To prove this then use a length of multi-stranded copper wire. Strip one end, and flare the wires so they are flat - do not twist them, as you need to wedge one end into one of fuse 13's terminals (ideally the live one) and get fuse 13 in too. Then wedge it into fuse 12's live terminal along with fuse 12. This should complete the circuit.

If it is fused, then you could see if you can get to the back of the fuse board to check and replace the wire.

Reconnect the battery.

DO NOT BE SURPRISED if FUSE 12 immediately blows!

If so, try removing the white relay / buzzer and retry.

The white relay / buzzer as pictured in Saamuel's post here: http://www.saxperience.com/forum/sho...ghlight=buzzer
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