Saxo VTS Rallycar

[Cam]

Works looking good mate, would not advise axle stand on boot floor though!

[Danc2]

Thanks pal. It was just as a safety there was no weight at all on it, it was only while i worked on the axel. It was just after the rear towing eye but just a precaution

[Danc2]

Spent some time today i have started with the brush on the grinder getting the underseal off but im going to wait until i am taking all the struts etc off



I have taken the weight out out of the boot the cental locking stuff off and all the un needed brackets



I have taken the rear washer tubing out wow that has been a nightmare !!! All done now though



The current inside of the car !!!

[Rallynavigator]

http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/rallynavigator/media/IMG_1054_zps8a49c030.jpg.html?filters[user]=136418632&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=0

This is why I need to get it into the garage. Similar stage as myself. Only the engine to come out now and get it cleaned up.
Seam welding is now a definite. I have got to this stage a no brainer

[Rallynavigator]

How do I get the images to appear direct in the post??

[hard_corejoeboy]

Use img tags

[Danc2]

Its looking good mate you need to use the photobucket code that has img at the start

I dont think that these cars need that tbh it all depends o what you are wanting to do i am only competing on tarmac events so this is not needed but for gravel i can see why you would do it but still i dont think it needs it.

[Danc2]

So today me and my mate Dave spent most of the day on the car and got alot done i am very happy with the progress !!

I cut all the little pegs sticking up in the car that held brackets etc etc in off and dave then use a sanding disc and groud them all down and then we sanded all the spot drills down as they were sharp, trimmed more brackets and things like that out of the car and tidied all the boot up. Then we moved all the wiring and fuel lines and got out the sound deadening from the passenger side ohhhhh yes thats fun !!!
After this we cleaned the footwells up with terps and there were still some left over residue so out came the brass wheel attachment for the grinder and then it came up a treat

Sound deadening and pegs cut


After grinding


We then didnt want to leave the open metal expose so put some primer on it
Before all the sharp edges


After sanding and priming


Inside after some priming




The car now sits on axel stands to ea easily worked on and gosh it was a nightmare even to get it on them !!


Inner arch grinding continues


I having a great time and the car has really come on the last week or so just need a few plates on the car and its cage timeeeeee !!!

Thanks

[welshpug]

Don't forget to drop the tank when you we3ld the cage feet on, don't want a leaky tank!


Also, I guess you probably didn't know this, but primer is still porous, so steel will still rust through it, you need to get a top colour on there to stop that.

Seat bars are highly reccomended.

a ) to get the seats safely mounted, the standard mounts are notorious for cracking.

b ) to get them low enough you dont twat your bonce on the cage.

c ) cut the exhaust tunnel skin away next to the handbrake, and you can get the seat central to the steering wheel, they are way off as standard!



don't forget to stick the silly seat as far back and low as practical, so you have good visibility, the nav doesn't need this!

[Rallynavigator]

Excellent progress. This is the part that I am looking forward to the most as strange as it seems.

[Rallynavigator]

http://www.kamracing.co.uk/car-tunin...e-weld-in.html

I have been looking at these for the seat frames , how much do you remove from the tunnel. Pictures if you have any please

What thickness of metal do you use for the roll bar support / feet??

[Danc2]

Yeah but it dhould be okay as its inside it only needs a bit of protection. Yeah before welding anything i taking out the tank fully to weld the plates over the rear arch holes.

Than you for this informatio mate, I have built a load of rallycars and yeah i will be using bars as standard points are not fit for purpose. Also the bars offer a great place to ancor the bottom seat belt and side ones. We built half of the field in the 205 challenge. I am lucky to have a dad that has been rallying for 29 years so we are all i good hands, but this is the first car i am building for myself. Thank you for the tips though mate

I wil not be fitting the cage myself i am going to be takig the car to custom cages as they have done all of our cars and do a top class service ad job we have found.

[Rallynavigator]

It looks as if the handbrake mounting plate is spot welded in so could be cut out quite easily looking at the photo. I now see what you are talking about.

[welshpug]

ahhh good to hear

are you getting the multipoint weld in cage?

I like the one the saxmax cars HAVE to run, its the beastliest cage I've seen in a saxo!

Always thought one of those would be an ideal rally car base, if only they hadn't been bashed about by 14 to 17 year olds!

[Rallynavigator]

somebody mentioned the panels are galvanised on these vehicles and are a pain to weld. As I am seam welding mind it could prove a little tricky.

[Danc2]

Yeah mate im getting the best weld in cage money can buy, i have been in a huge smash as a navigator and the cage saved our lifes so i will always have the best cage. The inly way my cage could get better if it was made in t45. My cage will be the best cannot wait !!!!

I am not seem welding mine if you get a full weld in fpgs danglies cage te the car doenst nee seam welding i would only bother if you put a bolt in cage ir standard weld in cage in the car. Plus additional weight is a killer and sometimes too stiff can be a downside as in a smash it will be very rigid when you want the front of the car to buckle to soak up all the force of the crash.

[Rallynavigator]

Originally Posted by Danc2

Plus additional weight is a killer and sometimes too stiff can be a downside as in a smash it will be very rigid when you want the front of the car to buckle to soak up all the force of the crash.

When you seam weld you would stay away from the crumple zones surely?

[Danc2]

Yes you do but you are strengthening up the front of the car that would usually all crumble when you crash the car. Im not saying yo are going to crash but if you get a good cage and an upper front strut brace then your car will be stiff trust me

Also if you dont put your car on a jog to make sure that it is 100% straight which i doubt it will be as out if the factory they were in tolerences that couldake the car not spot on. So if you dont check that its striaght you could be stretghtening an already bent car.

Im not Picking holes just trying to help you mate

[Rallynavigator]

All comments taken on board. I appreciate all comments and advice . This is my first rally car , I want it right from the very start.

[Danc2]

Get the best rollcage you can afford that is the main thing !!!, stay clear of fibrelgass doors, buy a good quality make of belts, you need a decent tank gaurd and sump gaurd.

If you listen to anything 3 things to spend your cash on . 1. Great brakes 2. Great suspension 3. Best rollcage you can afford and then after all that look ar engine

ohhh and have fun