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Old 25th October 2013, 11:43   #121
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@ 6ft 5" you would recommend this. Using the 4/5 inch plates on the mounting point seems a good idea in order to spread the load
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Old 25th October 2013, 12:33   #122
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indeed!

I would cut out the handbrake mounting section from the skin you removed and weld that back on top of the exhaust tunnel, a fair bit of force goes into the handbrake lever, even if you have a Hydro for Hturns.
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Old 25th October 2013, 15:03   #123
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Loving this project can't wait to read more keep up the good work
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Old 26th October 2013, 09:37   #124
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I wouldn,t consider fitting any seat mountings untill cage is in
then you will see how low the seat needs to be to stop your helmet from banging on the roll cage .
I,m not as tall as you tall --a bit over 6ft1" ,but i used std mounting points then made side plates to fit to std mount points
the cross tubes welded to these plates ,but dropped down to very close to floor pan --then angle side mount plates to fit to the seats+ cross tubes with multiple holes to give adjustment ,both front and back and up+down + tilt
all made from alloy
you could use steel tubing for cross shafts and then use exhaust clamps to allow sideways movement of seat - and then weld when you have correct setting
then once column was lowered etc spent a day frigging about to get best postion for me --arms bent a bit ,not straight out.
Is your roll cage going to have a seat belt bar ?
lot easier than mounting belts to floor behind seats
I needed to extend the steering wheel boss
don,t forget to have belts fitted.in+ adjusted with crutch strap and wear clothing you wil be racing in --race overalls can be quite thick .
Its also the time to sort out gear lever length + postion and any switchss you need to get at when strapped in .
If you can lean forward ANY amount --the blets are not tight enough .you may then want to put a pull strap on door .as you will not reach it if fully open + strapped in correctly.
final test of seat mounting
If somebody can pull back of seat back,with you strapped in and make your belts go slack --it is not mounted correctly
even a cheap grp seat when fitted correctly is totally solid if mounted using side fixings and the underframe is made + mounted correctly
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Last edited by axsaxoman; 26th October 2013 at 09:44.
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Old 27th October 2013, 22:51   #125
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Excellent thank you. Once the tunnel is removed do you have to weld more metal in or is it just a reinforcement plate??
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indeed!

I would cut out the handbrake mounting section from the skin you removed and weld that back on top of the exhaust tunnel, a fair bit of force goes into the handbrake lever, even if you have a Hydro for Hturns.
This is what we did
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Put a photo of yourself up so we can all recognise you when you are on police interceptors or traffic cops
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Old 27th October 2013, 22:53   #126
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Cheapest place for a roof skin is ??


I have been quoted £200+ VAT form citreon and that us trade price.
Cut one off a car in a scrap yard then drill the spot welds out at home.
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Put a photo of yourself up so we can all recognise you when you are on police interceptors or traffic cops
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Old 28th October 2013, 01:43   #127
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Cut one off a car in a scrap yard then drill the spot welds out at home.
What roof page el is compatible with the saxo ??
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Old 28th October 2013, 01:44   #128
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What roof panel is compatible with the saxo??
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Old 28th October 2013, 09:46   #129
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106, saxo.
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Old 3rd November 2013, 18:24   #130
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Any further progress??
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