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Old 16th January 2013, 21:02   #21
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Ahh, I see.

The springs would compress too much and smack together (coilbound?)

Right so that ideas bust then.
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Old 16th January 2013, 21:33   #22
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very correct man

the coils become bound on each other basically becoming a solid tube resulting in shit handeling shit ride and a bang similar to that of raceland coilovers...

i bet with a few mods you could nock up a way to use those mounts on a stock spring
but really there is very little need for them on such a low rate
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Old 16th January 2013, 21:38   #23
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I've been looking at them and I think I could get them to work with some tweeking. Their's not much need, I agree but, I just wanna! hahaha.

Looks like i'm going to need to get on the lookout for some Grp N's or Pugsport dampers then!?
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Old 16th January 2013, 21:46   #24
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good luck with pugsports popping up tbh

i rekon a little welding on the oe top spring pan if you really wanted too lol

remove the bearing and make a shallower bell that you weld on to the spring pan
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Old 16th January 2013, 21:48   #25
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I think I've figured an even easier way than that mate.

I'll text you some pics when I figure it out a bit better.
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Old 16th January 2013, 22:09   #26
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ok man
i can think of a very easy way to assemble it
but the top of the upper bell ends up level with the shell in the standard topmounts
so anywhere down from there raises the car hence the thickness of the topmount and the top hat is what youll lift the car straight assembly like that
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Old 20th January 2013, 17:01   #27
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WELL..... Turns out these dampers are Grp. N's.

What poundage springs should I get and what length? Do i need helpers or just get the correct length spring?
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Old 20th January 2013, 17:17   #28
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225lb 7" mains
40lb 4" helpers
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Old 20th January 2013, 20:16   #29
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Cheers dude.
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Old 20th January 2013, 20:42   #30
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youll also need a center pan to go between the springs to keep then seated
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Old 20th January 2013, 21:03   #31
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Yeah, just need to find some helpers. R/D do the centre plates as well so most of it will come from them I reckon.

Will be good to get something to save for and have a bash at.
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Old 20th January 2013, 21:21   #32
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contact faulkner for helpers man
best bet
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Old 20th January 2013, 21:33   #33
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Just seen some Gaz helpers on ebay from some shop. £30 a pair for 3" 40lb.

Also seen that Tweeks do the faulkner main springs too. cor... I could spend a few quid if i'm not careful lol.

Just going to get the stuff from R/D and find some helpers when I'm ready to get them all.

I'm just looking at the minute as i have a few other bits to buy first

After the fronts rebuilt of course!
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Old 20th January 2013, 21:35   #34
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Quote:
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contact faulkner for helpers man
best bet
yoo alex me again
its linked to this thread so ill say it in here. with my struts now built up with the helpers its fixed all my original niggles but caused another.
my issue now is that when coil bound my spring to helper seat hits the top spring pan before the helper goes coil bound.
now obviosly this could be avoided by running the helpers on the bottom but the helper spring locator pan wont pass the brass strut retaining nut.
is this a major problem?
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Old 20th January 2013, 21:39   #35
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yoo alex me again
its linked to this thread so ill say it in here. with my struts now built up with the helpers its fixed all my original niggles but caused another.
my issue now is that when coil bound my spring to helper seat hits the top spring pan before the helper goes coil bound.
now obviosly this could be avoided by running the helpers on the bottom but the helper spring locator pan wont pass the brass strut retaining nut.
is this a major problem?
Could you not machine down the part that is fouling enough so it clear the coilbound spring etc but leaving enough to keep the spring in place?
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Old 20th January 2013, 21:47   #36
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the options here are 2
skim both pans to clear each other
or go for a slightly heavier helper (thicker coils) or taller (more coils) so when its coilbound they dont

im certain we ran a 40lb 4in and were fine
if you do shorten the pans do both evenly and as little as you need so they only just clear you want as much as possible to keep the spring located
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Old 20th January 2013, 21:50   #37
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Could you not machine down the part that is fouling enough so it clear the coilbound spring etc but leaving enough to keep the spring in place?
its very tight and both offending parties are pretty slim as they are so wont be able to take enough off
which means as it is with the car on the floor the top spring pan and helper spring locater will be butted together.
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Old 20th January 2013, 21:52   #38
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Longer helper springs are probably the only option then i guess?

What length and poundage do you currently have?
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Old 20th January 2013, 21:53   #39
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so a heavier helper really then is the way to go
must be something changed slightly in the 2 years since i last built a set
try a 60lb 4"

it shouldnt massively effect the handeling unless you have no arb on the front
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Old 20th January 2013, 21:57   #40
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ok ill see if tweeks will swap as there brand new. i was advised to get 4" 4lb springs so they only locate while the cars off the floor and when the cars on the floor there coil bound but obviously somethings abit queer.
ill have another look at seeing if i can get the helpers to sit at the bottom but i dont think they will/can
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