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Saxo Brakes / Suspension / Transmission / Tyres If you have queries or information to share regarding Saxo braking, suspension, tyres or transmission systems, please discuss this within this forum.

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Old 18th February 2015, 12:42   #21
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Don't fit solid rear "shocks" - it will give you no squat as you want, but you'll probably die in an inferno when you crash coming back off power at the other end of the run. I've seen people try solid shocks years ago. Just isn't worth the scare at the other end of the strip.
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Old 18th February 2015, 12:48   #22
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I can get decent coilovers with anti dive technology which can help without having to go for three way dampers.
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Old 18th February 2015, 16:17   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GT500FTW View Post
Dave... What was your setup? How did you manage this?
My 106 is a hillclimb car, not a drag car so it needs to be set up for a good start as well as cornering.

The set up is nothing to write home about, non adjustable dampers, big torsion bars and a slightly arse up stance and its not low either. Minimal camber but i do run as much castor as i can using a plate a friend and i designed.

Weight is under 700kg, power was under 200bhp, i also run a plate lsd and gripper dog box, the car topped out at 111mph back then.
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Old 18th February 2015, 20:42   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave_P View Post
My 106 is a hillclimb car, not a drag car so it needs to be set up for a good start as well as cornering.

The set up is nothing to write home about, non adjustable dampers, big torsion bars and a slightly arse up stance and its not low either. Minimal camber but i do run as much castor as i can using a plate a friend and i designed.

Weight is under 700kg, power was under 200bhp, i also run a plate lsd and gripper dog box, the car topped out at 111mph back then.
Aaaah. I'm betting the gripper LSD is the key.
I'm running a helical LSD at the moment.
Weight wise, i'm pretty similar to you too.
I'll have a wee look into dampers and larger torsion bars.
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Old 19th February 2015, 15:15   #25
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dave has been doing sprinting for a long time --so he will be good at getting off the line
you have tried running very low front tyre pressures i presume ?and if they are tyre that needs warming up --that could also be part of problem --a burn out is not the same as giving them a hard lap to warm them up --hence the tyre heaters used by F1
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Old 19th February 2015, 15:25   #26
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You can get slicks especially for drag racing. What ones did you buy. Its not a case of one compound suits all...
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Old 19th February 2015, 16:19   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by axsaxoman View Post
dave has been doing sprinting for a long time --so he will be good at getting off the line
I normally have the best 2wd 64ft time in the class (1.4-2.0 mod prod), drag racing measures 60ft times so we can't really compare the two.
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Old 19th February 2015, 16:55   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KamRacing View Post
You can get slicks especially for drag racing. What ones did you buy. Its not a case of one compound suits all...
This year i'm going to experiment with some 240/570/13 Hankook slicks used in Formula 3.
Got some 13" 106 steelies banded out to 10" wide

They're not full on MT tyres, but i think they're worth a shot.
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Old 19th February 2015, 17:17   #29
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Don't use those tyres, they wont work.

They're a circuit tyre and a radial one at that, radials like a bit of camber.
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Old 19th February 2015, 17:52   #30
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Quote:
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Don't use those tyres, they wont work.

They're a circuit tyre and a radial one at that, radials like a bit of camber.
What tyres do you suggest?
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Old 19th February 2015, 17:53   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave_P View Post
Don't use those tyres, they wont work.

They're a circuit tyre and a radial one at that, radials like a bit of camber.
Any reason they won't work better than road tyres? The F3 guys seem to get off the line pretty damn fast.
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Old 19th February 2015, 18:03   #32
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Wrong compound. You want a compound that works from cold, a super soft type compound.

F3 cars are lighter than road cars remember and they've had a lap or two to warm the tyres...
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Old 19th February 2015, 18:54   #33
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and they have the driven wheels in the right place..
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Old 19th February 2015, 20:28   #34
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all the top UK and US FWD drag cars run an ATB and not a plate diff
track slicks take too long to warm up and the strip and the side walls are too stiff, same as R888's.
you want a proper drag tyre, if you can fit 13's over the brakes then 13 drag slicks are cheep as hell.

if you run a decent stand alone ecu then boost in gear is easy enough to set up, i run gear dependant boost on my DTA S60

bigger portion bars are what will help the back the most, i run standard 106 gti rear setup with Gaz adjustable set as hard as possible but still squats to much, even with the back jacked up 40mm
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