Turbo oil - Saxperience

sri_130 · 13th December 2017, 08:58

I'm going to put my order in, for the final pieces before I can start the new engine.
As the bottom end is new, was thinking of a running in oil for the first couple of hundred miles.

This one in particular: "Millers Oils CRO 10w-40 Competition Running In Mineral Engine Oil (2017) - 5 Litres"

As I've got the mocal baby oil cooler, the capacity would likely be 3.5L + what the cooler can hold, so presuming near enough 5 Litres all told?

If anyone has any information counter to this oil, can you suggest an alternative.

Cheers

axsaxoman · 13th December 2017, 15:21

general rule is something cheap and nasty ,so things actually touch --which will not happen with good oil --then it can bed in rings --which is all you are trying to do
change at a few hundred miles for 10/40 w
no need for complicated stuff
don,t hammer it to hell just give it the occasional full boost spurt to blow rings on to bores --
its only the boes you are running shells don,t need it --not made as tight as they were 40 years ago --which is why new cars don,t get oil change till 10k or more -

just don,t use full synthetic to start with

Chipwizards · 14th December 2017, 22:27

If your Mocal cooler is several years old then it should be fine (because they used to be OK), but if it's a fairly recent one (past five years) throw it in the bin before it splits and wrecks your engine and buy a Setrab one. I've had several Mocal ones fail on the dyno now, utter shit, no doubt of Chinese manufacture.

sri_130 · 15th December 2017, 08:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chipwizards

If your Mocal cooler is several years old then it should be fine (because they used to be OK), but if it's a fairly recent one (past five years) throw it in the bin before it splits and wrecks your engine and buy a Setrab one. I've had several Mocal ones fail on the dyno now, utter shit, no doubt of Chinese manufacture.

It's about 6 years old I think.
It'll be failing on your dyno either way, though - I'll bring some cloths!

Gabbastard · 15th December 2017, 10:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chipwizards

If your Mocal cooler is several years old then it should be fine (because they used to be OK), but if it's a fairly recent one (past five years) throw it in the bin before it splits and wrecks your engine and buy a Setrab one. I've had several Mocal ones fail on the dyno now, utter shit, no doubt of Chinese manufacture.

Whats the issue with them Wayne, just the core falling apart? I only ask as Im building a car up for a friend just now, and part of it includes a Mocal bought three months ago.

axsaxoman · 18th December 2017, 08:32

only issue i have ever had is people not holding the pipe connections with a spanner when tightening up the hose unions --that will twist the boss in the core and cause leaks,
never had any failures in actual core

sri_130 · 2nd March 2018, 19:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by axsaxoman

general rule is something cheap and nasty ,so things actually touch --which will not happen with good oil --then it can bed in rings --which is all you are trying to do
change at a few hundred miles for 10/40 w
no need for complicated stuff
don,t hammer it to hell just give it the occasional full boost spurt to blow rings on to bores --
its only the boes you are running shells don,t need it --not made as tight as they were 40 years ago --which is why new cars don,t get oil change till 10k or more -

just don,t use full synthetic to start with

What do you recommend now running in is nearly done John? 10/40 full?

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Chipwizards · 4th March 2018, 18:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by axsaxoman

only issue i have ever had is people not holding the pipe connections with a spanner when tightening up the hose unions --that will twist the boss in the core and cause leaks,
never had any failures in actual core

I've had them fail in the middle of the core as well.

I've inspected the fitting failures under the microscope and it's very clear to see that they aren't welded/soldered properly and they just rely on the paint from stopping them leaking when pressure testing them (which is done cold).
When they get hot the paint gets soft and fails.

I will now not use a Mocal cooler as long as I live.

Setrab coolers work perfectly fine, so why risk your engine and turbo on some Chinese Mocal shit known to fail?